[Th3 Cavalry]

Hello, sorry for the new thread, but my old ones don't get replies anymore.

I recently dropped my a4ld, replaced the pump seal, and put it back in.

During the time, the speddo gear threads got messed up at the end of it, and now my speddo dont work.

my main thing is, it will redline before it shifts into third, and i have to let off the pedal and wait a few seconds then get back on the pedal for it to shift into third. but then if i give it some more pedel, it "slips" back into second.(its not a downshift because it dont jerk or any of that stuff, plus i know a downshift and a slip.)

It shifted into third and fourth before i replaced the seal, but now it doesnt. I just fixed the shifter linkage, it was a little off(reverse would shutter and sometimes pop into neutral, but since i redid the linkage, its perfect.)

I dont know whats going on, but after having it for about 2 months now, i finally am able to drive it, but only in second

before the seal replace, it would rev before shifting into third, then hit fourth fine.

There was a replacement rubber hose on one of the cooling lines that was pretty much collapsed, and i fixed that after i put the tranny back up.

i cant put a t-5 into it yet, because i still need to do a little more work to it.

any suggestions?

[Th3 Cavalry]

Top. I am still trying to figure this out.


I have now developed a different problem. I used oil cooler hoses to replace part of the cooler lines that i cut, but they seem to leak slowly. Is there a way I can get them to stop?

And I can get it into third if I pretty much redline it, let off the gas till the rpms go back to idle, then give it a little gas. But i have yet to get it into fourth.


Maybe somebody can guide me into the right direction?

I starting college real soon, and this will be the vehicle I use because it uses a whole lot less gas then my awd explorer

Thanks! Brandon

[mg man 75]

Fix the speedometer gear. The computer get the info for changing off the Vehicle Speed Sensor [vss]. Is the trans gear messed up or the plastic one. Tell me what color [plastic one] I probably have one you can have. Here is wiring diagram on your car that shows the sensor. On the leak. I would use brass compression fitting. [hardware store] and some brake line of the proper size. Can flare end of line and use Hi Pressure fuel line if want to go that way.
http://www.rothfam.com/svo/reference/92-93Mustang.pdf

[Th3 Cavalry]

its the plastic one, and i belive its grey. the teeth are messed up, and im missing the clamp to hold the speddo gear in(it mounts around the speddo thing and bolts down to the outside of the tranny by a single bolt)


thanks man. it goes in second, but third is a ***** getting it to go, and fourth is a no-go for me at this moment


this is also a non-turbo 2.3l with the a4ld

[Th3 Cavalry]

and i do plan on doing a t-5 swap, does a t-5 use the tranny cooling lines also?

[mg man 75]

I will look for that color. It may not solve all your problems the A4ld has a reputation for being a junker and expensive to fix. May notice my car c-4 got luck and found proper bellhousing. Daily driver for wife so had to be auto. Me 5speed would be preferred. Now you can go c-4 with a 5.0 bellhousing by using a adapter plate. Stinger has it. Would need to talk to him on specifics. No tranny lines on the t-5.
auto to t-5 info.
Auto to 5 Speed Tranny Swap
Another one lot of pictures.
How to swap in a manaul T5 transmission - MustangForums.com

[Th3 Cavalry]

hhhmmm, how much better does the c-4 preform over the a4ld and compare to a 5 speed? im doing a turbo swap at the begining of the year, and plan on doing it bit, holset or garret deisel turb, with eslinger svo high flow heads, stinger exhaust manifold, 3" pipe no cats, a magnaflow high flow muffler. gutted and ported intake and more. i plan on making atleast 500-600 HP in the beggining

[mg man 75]

Never had a experience with the a4ld. My 89 was a roller with bad trans and j-yard got the 2.3 na and bad trans back after I pulled it. I am pleased with it. a 4th gear would be nice on cruising. I tach about 3000rmp at 60mph. Right now my c-4 has a input seal leaking. I bought it rebuilt 3 years ago with a 2 year warranty. It fiqures. Bopart does good head porting or port yourself. Gave give links. But I am getting way off topic. Want more info let me know. Remember not to far way to meet. Maurice

[Th3 Cavalry]

still nothing still doing the same thing... im about stumped. it was fine before i replaced the seal, and now its not working right

[Th3 Cavalry]

please somebody help me figure this out? my explorer is about to be down for a while while i take the motor out and fix a couple of things(damn 4.0SOHC and thier timing tensoners). the mustang is the only other vehicle i have and i start college soon and i also got a 5 month old that pretty much goes everywhere i go.

thanks!

[erob914]

How did the trans fluid smell? How did it shift before the repair? how hard does it shift when it does shift now? Did you mess with the valve body during the r&r? The a4ld valve body is very touchy when messed with.
A lot of the time a front seal leaks because the pump bushing is shot which causes the seal to leak. You would need to pull the pump to replace the bushing. If the bushing is worn out your front seal will probably start leaking again pretty soon.
If you have a lot of miles on the trans (80-100k) you ought to seriously think about getting it rebuilt or do the t5 swap anyway. Like a previous post said the a4ld is an expensive trans to rebuild and even more expensive when hard parts start getting munched. all that high revving will be generating a lot of heat and that by itself can trash the trans.

[Th3 Cavalry]

well it hasnt moved :\ i didnt touch the valve body. it was fine before i replaced the seal. the car sat for 2 years before i bought it. i think the tranny has atleast 140k miles on it. tranny fluid smells fine.


thanks so much for the reply!!

[wagamanel]

My 92 hatch with the A4LD only had 115,000 miles on it before it started slipping and not shifting. From what i hear this is a very common problem but there has not been a clear explaination. After hearing $800-$1500 estimates to rebuild it, i traded it and $400 for a thunderbird turbocoupe 5 speed setup. It was actually cheaper to buy a jasper A4LD than get the one i had rebuilt. I would much rather have the C4 over the A4LD but i have never owned a C4. I just prefer a stick over an auto.

[Th3 Cavalry]

well it was working perfect before i removed and replaced the tranny. ima go over evrything this weekend and make sure something isnt messed up. im going to try to find a speddo gear and the retaining clip for the tranny and check all the plug in stuff on it. anybody have any ideas on what to check?

[Th3 Cavalry]

Problem fixed.

It was the broken speedo gear. Got a used one today, swapped them out, also replaced the hose clamps to diffrent locations, and shes not leaking anymore either.

Before the tranny fixes, it felt real sluggish, would over-rev going from 2nd to 3rd, and just felt like crap.

Now that I've replaced the kinked cooling line, flushed the tranny about 4 times because of dropping it, and thinking i had the leak fixed then had it leak all out three times, it now feels so firm. Don't feel sluggish, or underpowered at all. The tranny is atleast 60% more responsive then what it used to be. It is about as firm now as the A4LD upgraded 5 speed auto thats in my explorer now