[DROPTOP STANG]

okay heres the deal. it hasnt negatively affected my driving yet past the first 5 minutes of being in D so its not critical but it is a problem.


the car is a 91 2.3L NA (non turbo) convertible. its an auto (sadly)



when i first start the car it starts real fast and nice, but the rpms rev to like 1400-1600 and stays there until the car warms up a little bit. it could be the car just charging the alternator though because i have a monster sound system on stock electrical components and the car is constantly trying to replace the lost battery power (i know im a dumbass and its real hard on the car).


and also when i go to back out of my driveway the car hits like 900rpms which is normal. but when i go to D it goes to like 700 and bogs out for a second and i have to floor it cuz it feels like it wants to die. im assuming its not getting fuel. but if i rev the car a couple good times be4 i back out its fine.......

i wonder what that problem could be. its not that big of a deal (or is it?) im just curious and wondering if it is indeed a problem i need to be aware of.


thanks

[NavySVO]

When a car is first started (ambient temp) the EEC "sees" the ECT signal as cold and the EEC will place the Stoich into COLD START MODE. When doing this, the AF mixutre is rich. Sort of like a choke does for a carbed car. This will create a higher idle speed. Usually cold start idle is around 2000 RPM at first.

Try this:
To set your base idle you will need to have the car running, at operating temperature, all accessories off.

The next step is to disconnect the IAC (Idle Air Controller). The engine speed should slow to around 750 or it may stall. The proper setting is listed on the emissions decal on the cover of the coil.

With the IAC still disconnected set the idle speed using the adjustment screw on the front of the TB. Operate the throttle a few times to make sure that it is set properly.

Turn off the engine and reconnect the IAC and start the car. After a few minutes the idle should set itself around 950 to 1025 RPM. After doing this procedure, it may be necessary to reset the TPS

[TOM RENZO]

+++ what navy said its called minimum idle setting. The tps must be checked for proper voltage. It should be .90-.95 with throttle closed. Here is something that i do to keep the IAC from over reving the engine. Remove the IAC and the gasket. Use the gasket as a template and place it on a sheet of sheet mettal. Scribe the outside and cut it out with aviation tin ships. Use the old gasket to find the center of the holes in the gasket and make 2 1/4" hole in the new plate.(Instead of those huge holes) Install it on the car and that will limit the rpm to APP 2000 RPM. I have several of these plates of different size holes. This way i can use the one that controlls the idle to my specks. Also make shure you put the holes in the new plate for the mounting screws. Use only the plate and put the gasket in your tool box. I have a cool stereo in all my cars I have a pioneer 40W tape player and 2 6x9 speakers. I just up dated my WS6 speakers to some outrageyous speakers. The car came with a big radio and a factory amp. Way to much power for me. Tom JR laughs at my stereo setup. All i need is an 8 track and 2 6x9 speakers. Hay they fit the car without cutting anything. Also i just installed a pioneer 40W per channel radio in my chivelle it has a cd player???? What in the world am i going to do with that????? Tom JR installed it. All i need is some thing to play my elvis 8 track songs and now i cant. WHAT THE HECK. Tom actually got me some elvis ON CD. I have this motto if it does not make the car faster. I DONT NEED IT. Just messing around i know you guys have some sereyous systems and i make money on installing big alternatoes and big batterys for you guys. I once installed two batterys for a guy with a stang. I mounted both of them in the trunk. The guy loved it because he was able to hook up some amps in the trunk without running a big cable to the front of the car. So do i need a #1 cable to my stereo to push those 6X9 PUPPIES. Just kidding TOM:bigthumbsu p

[DROPTOP STANG]

id love to relocate my battery. that would be a dream for me lol..... only problem is theres no decent ground in the trunk.


i have another question too... my stereo turns itself off to keep the car from dying. its real bad with my headlights and any other electronic thing going like a turn signal or the ac


you think a yellowtop would fix this?

[Th3 Cavalry]

@droptop: if you really havent messed with the motor to much, check your ground wires. one is a flat braded cable that goes from you motor to your firewall, im almost 95% sure that it is broken and not connected anymore. Fix that, and another groun from frame to motor, then from batt to frame. I havent done this yet, but iv read on here somewhere that it helped SO many people

[TOM RENZO]

Every one of our builds have trunk mounted yellow top batterys. To obtain the ground we use the heavy double wall sheet mettal seam on the rear valance. We then run the cable + side inside a 5/8 heater hose in the car on the drivers side next to the rockers and through the firewall to the starter solenoid or original pos cable in the car. I am called the batteery king around the shop because of my dynimite trunk mounts. I normally run 2 yellow tops in the runk for the big radio guys along with a 130A alternator. That will have enough power to run any amps you have in the car. :h appyhapp

[DROPTOP STANG]

yea id love to have you around no homo.....


im out here without any expertice in shitty hot texas. lol

i want to put in a new alternator, a yellow top and add another amp for my cabin speaks......


but first im either going to do a 5.0 or a 2.3T swap, i got these plans, but no funds backing them. making 8.50 an hour isnt fun

if your under 18 and reading this, stay in school and go to college, take my word for it im 19