2.3l timing belt and timing belt tensioner - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-03-2009 Thread Starter
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2.3l timing belt and timing belt tensioner

i just bought an 88 2.3l mustang and it nees the timing belt and timing belt tensioner replaced. also the timing will need to be done.
if anyone could help me with how to do this please let me know,
also i do not have a timing light nor do i have the money to pay someone to do it or buy a light so if someone can tell me a way to di this without one that would be great.
thanks alot in advance
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-03-2009
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Here is some info:

TurboFord FAQ

'88 LX 5.0L 5 spd Conv. one owner all original survivor car
'88 LX Hatchback 2.3 turbo 5 spd
'86 SVO black original low mileage survivor
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-04-2009
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Cool

Here's another one...................

Timing belt replacement and setup

'89 LX ragtop with turbo'd TC motor - Thunderstang!
'86 Turbo Coupe (daily driver)
'88 Turbo Coupe (parts car)
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-04-2009
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The 2.3 ford is one of the easiest engine to replace a belt drive. You can get a timing belt kit from napa which is a cloyes complete with a tensoner. I use them all the time and they are very good. The belt change is a piece of cake and here is a tip to make it easy. If your engine is running fine and you want to just change the belt for matinance here is what to do. Set up the belt on its original marks before disembly. Mark the gears with white tuch up paint in a way that you can reassemble it and have the gears timed correctly. I do many a complicated belt change on motors that dont have timing marks. You will have to get used to the idea of the factory marks not being there. The porsche 944 is one example. It has two belts and the balance shaft has one mark missing. There is other enginws that share that short falling. Go slow and mark those gears carefully Hope this helps.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-04-2009
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I got a video on here on how to do the timing belt on a '91-'93 2.3l if it helps. I happened to have to do it twice. The first one snapped as I was driving from being pinched. The second ones fine.

1993 LX Notch Foxbody 2.3l Automatic,Custom 2" Cold air intake,EGR Delete,CAT Delete/straight 2.25 pipe,95' Ranger Tubular header,5.0 GT Rear Sway Bar,5.0 Fuel Pump,Monroe Gas Struts,225 60 15 tires,8 speaker sound system,400.1 mono block POWERBASS amp,2 ORION COBALT 10" subs
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-04-2009 Thread Starter
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thanks for the reply's
tom thanks for the tips but unfortunately the belt is already broken, the car came with a new belt and tensioner in the hatch so i lucked out there.
and thanks 93foxbody for the video im sure it'll help alot when i attempt this in a couple hours when my friend gets here to help me push it up the driveway into the garage lol
too cold out to work on it outside, specially when yesterday it was snowing
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-04-2009 Thread Starter
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any suggestions on how to get the crank pulley nut loose without spinning the pulley ?
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-04-2009
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Put vehicle in gear and set parking brake. Usually works.

1989 Mustang 2.3 turbo, rebuilt SVO motor, 88 computer,vam upgrade, adjustable boost control, intercooler, c-4 trans, 7.5 345 turbocoupe rearend, motorsport driveshaft, Black interior.


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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-04-2009 Thread Starter
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ok cool. even if the belt is shredded?
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Makes no difference. If the belt is shredded. I normally spin them off with an impact. But put it in forth have someone hold the brakes and crank the bolt off.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-04-2009 Thread Starter
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its an auto so what would be the equivelant to 4th?
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impact gun. to easy to borrow one. even rental shops carry electric ones. line up the crank to the "0" on the timing marks. remove #1 spark plug and stick a screwdriver in the hole. make sure the piston is at the highest point by rocking the crank back and forth, feeling the piston with the screwdriver. then line up the cam with the "arrow" pointing down @ the 3 plastic indicators. then remove the dizzy cap and line up the rotor with the # sparkplug wire position on the cap. after replacing the tensioner, keep the 2 bolts loose and pry the tensioner over to the left and tighten the small bolt, keeping it tense. line the cam up to the 1st mark on theleft of indicator. install the belt, keeping it as tight as possible, you'll notice slack on the right of the belt, now put a wrench on the cam and rotate the cam to the centre indicator, all the slack should now be out of the belt on the right side. release the tensioner bolt it should snap over and tighten the belt right up. tighten both tensioner bolts and reassemble.it is a good idea to rotate the engine with a ratchet once to make sure everything is tight and true. you will need to release the dizzy bolt and time with a light after.

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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-05-2009 Thread Starter
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heyy thanks for everyones help
got everything fixed up and done, but i wont know if evrythings set right till tomorrow cuz my battery is dead
so i will let you all know tomorrow how it is
thanks again
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