[Kevmustang83]

So i plan on pulling the engine and rebuilding it. so far on my list of stuff to replace:
gasket kit
auxillary bearings
connecting rod bearings
head bolts
oil pump
piston rings

what else would i need? im going to paint the engine too. anything to look out for or avoid?

Thanks!
Kevin

[johnny2350]

When you paint the engine make sure it's cleand real good or it will chip or look like hell. buy a gallon of wax and grese remover and put it in a spray bottle and go to town on it.

[Kevmustang83]

Don't worry i will. i plan to paint the block and head a dark red and the valve cover red with black lettering and etc.

[b_chandler]

If you're going to do axuliary shaft bearings, have the machine shop install them if you don't have the tool. Even a slightly crooked bearing will cause premature bearing wear and reduce timing belt life.

Don't forget main bearings.

I wouldn't buy any bearings or the rings until the machine shop is done with the crank and block. That way you only have to buy them once in the event the block needs bored or the crank needs to be turned.

Drop the head off at the machine shop too. Ask if it needs new cam bearings (they seldom do). Have a good valve job done on the heads, but be careful on the exhaust side. The heat treating from the factory is thin. This might be a good time to discuss installing hardened exhaust seats with your machinist.

New timing belt!! Re-using a timing belt on a fresh motor is like putting clean pants on over dirty underwear.

Thermostat - See timing belt

There are 2 kinds of bearings. Clevite and some other junk not worth mentioning.

Don't be tempted to buy a high volume oil pump. It's not necessary and just creates other problems.

Brass freeze plugs.

[TOM RENZO]

Originally Posted by b_chandler

If you're going to do axuliary shaft bearings, have the machine shop install them if you don't have the tool. Even a slightly crooked bearing will cause premature bearing wear and reduce timing belt life.

Don't forget main bearings.

I wouldn't buy any bearings or the rings until the machine shop is done with the crank and block. That way you only have to buy them once in the event the block needs bored or the crank needs to be turned.

Drop the head off at the machine shop too. Ask if it needs new cam bearings (they seldom do). Have a good valve job done on the heads, but be careful on the exhaust side. The heat treating from the factory is thin. This might be a good time to discuss installing hardened exhaust seats with your machinist.

New timing belt!! Re-using a timing belt on a fresh motor is like putting clean pants on over dirty underwear.

Thermostat - See timing belt

There are 2 kinds of bearings. Clevite and some other junk not worth mentioning.

Don't be tempted to buy a high volume oil pump. It's not necessary and just creates other problems.

Brass freeze plugs.

+++++++ And never use a HP or HV oil pump. As the matter of fact i use an AN pump it has 10% less preasure and will be a real benifit in controlling AUX and DIZZY gear failure. I have a MOD to keep the dizzy gears alive. Take a look

http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/t...o/dizzy013.jpg

Hay chandler what do you think. This is one of my prototype dizzy oil mods. Be truthful. This really supplies oil to the dizzy gears very nicely. It only squirts when the lower line intersects with the oil passage in the dizzy tower.

http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/t...o/dizzy029.jpg

[Kevmustang83]

Hmm. This is looking like it'll be rough. This is my first rebuild. Should i have someone help me or let a shop do it? Im not inexperienced to say the least but i dont know if i can handle it.

main bearings added to the list
do i need to take the block and crank to a machine shop since the reason why im doing the rebuild is b/c of the piston rings?

[b_chandler]

I was always told this growing up and found it to be true later in life

"You can do it right, or you can do it again."

Building an engine is like building a house. You have to have a solid foundation. In engine speak, all flat surfaces have to be flat and all things round need to be round. That means a trip to the machine shop (unless you have a Sunnen CK-10 in the garage)

The cylinder bores need to be checked for roundness and taper and the walls must be honed in order to properly break in and seat the new rings.

The rotating assembly must be straight and true and the running surfaces must be smooth and round. Bearing clearances must be within tolerance to insure proper lubrication and to maintain oil pressure throughout.

If you just slap a set of rings on the old pistons and a set of bearings on the crank and rods without checking anything, you haven't "rebuilt" anything. You've just thrown new parts at an old problem. In fact, you could even add more problems.

If you've never rebuilt an engine, it's good to have an extra set of experienced eyes and hands to watch over you and keep you on the right track. It's not an impossible task, but it's easy to screw something up that you won't discover until it's back in the car and knocking, smoking, or won't run at all. I've built several engines and the last one I did I cracked a ring putting the pistons in the block. I found out the hard way when it started smoking about 4 days after the car was back on the road. I scratched my head for quite awhile before I got aggravated and yanked the motor out and tore it down again. That's when I found the ring.

Good luck. We'll help you as much as we can, but bear in mind there's only so much that can be done through a keyboard.

[b_chandler]

Tom. Talk about a K.I.S.S simple solution.

I do have a question/concern. The groove on the distributor gear, if that's the iron gear, do you think that notch compromises the integrity of the gear? It doesn't look to have any sharp edges or other stress points, but at a glance it looks like it might invite a gear failure. I dunno though. It's the driven gear and the only real load is the distributor's own rotating mass. So maybe not?

I like the idea

[Kevmustang83]

I completely understand you, it's just in South Florida. It's hard to come by a decent machine shop. Im wondering how much would it be roughly to send the block and crank out to be checked? I've put a list together and so far in parts im looking at about 500 plus tax. is that almost right? my list contains:
Gasket kit for entire engine
connecting rod bearings
crank main bearings
head bolts
oil pump
piston rings
brass freeze plugs
thermostat and gasket
fluids, some tools, h stand

what do should i have done to the block and crank? im going to look for a decent machine shop tomorrow that can do what's needed.
Thanks for the help!

[TOM RENZO]

Originally Posted by b_chandler

Tom. Talk about a K.I.S.S simple solution.

I do have a question/concern. The groove on the distributor gear, if that's the iron gear, do you think that notch compromises the integrity of the gear? It doesn't look to have any sharp edges or other stress points, but at a glance it looks like it might invite a gear failure. I dunno though. It's the driven gear and the only real load is the distributor's own rotating mass. So maybe not?

I like the idea

That is a good question that i have tought about. With sereyous concern. So far its working and i do this on other ford DIZZYS. The 2.3 is not the only dizzy that fails in fords. This dizzy was my first proto type the newer one is slightly different. That notch is a lot shallower in my new design and i am trying to figure out an easy way to drill the block for more oil. The block drilling is a little complicated and i figured the dizzy mod is better because it can be done to an engine that is already assembled. Believe it or not this mod adds tuns of oil to those gears. My first design did not work because i just drilled an intersecting hole in the shaft. But when the oil punp shaft was installed it blocked the hole. Thats why i needed the vertical line and the higher transfer hole. Well just me messing around . I definately have to much time on my hands. I am thinking that the slot may not be necessary and i may just let the gear remain stock. I dont know if enough oil will come out. The dizzy is pulled down into the block when running and might restrict the oil from comming out. I am still messing around with it. I have one running in a car and so far so good. I did reduce the depth of the slot considerably on the one i am running. GOOD POINT WELL TAKEN. I was also thinking of making the slot on the dizzy pad of the tower in the block???? this way it wont compromise the gear. Those 2.3 fords always had my heart from day one. Peact TOM

[NavySVO]

One thing to say on any bearings you purchase.......

Have everything measures before and after maching. After that, plastigage 2-3 times to be sure.

Don't go out and buy the bearings first because you never know if you have to go with oversized bearings due to differences in tolerances.

[Kevmustang83]

Thats a pretty smart idea lol. I found a place that would do a valve job, check the cam bearings and replace the valve stem seals for 135 and deck the block, hone the cylinder walls and check the crank for 145. Decent price?