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Unread 11-18-2012   #1 (permalink)
Frankie1556 is offline Rookie


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Default 1993 Mustang Efi back to carb swap?

Hi guys. I was wondering if you could help me? The guy that had my car before me has done some thing to the harness on my car and the comp will not see the o2 sensor and it seems to pop a large assortment of random codes for all most every sensor on the car. I dont really like the ford obd1 system and am toying with idea of swapping back ten years. The only hang-up that i am not sure about is the ford dis? My understanding is that the module on the 93 takes care of itself and runs the timing, but in 95 they moved the timing over to the computer and have no module? Is that right? can i ditch the computer put on a carb and still have the dis or will i have to find a distributer and put in the motor? Any thoughts or suggestions?
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Unread 11-18-2012   #2 (permalink)
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I'm not sure what your long term plans for your car are, but I honestly think that you would be happier in the long run, fixing and keeping the EFI. If you are going full retro with your car, then I would ditch the dual plug head anyway and pull the stub shaft out of the block and stick a distributor in there.
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Unread 11-18-2012   #3 (permalink)
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go to the wreckers and get a new harness. keep it stock 105hp.
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1987 ford mustang 2.3l turbo
mods: 1988 t-bird turbocoupe engine w/ IHI turbo
88 t/c ecm with large vane air meter
volvo front mount intercooler with explorer radiator
AOD to t-5 swap, 8.8 posi swap with 3:55 gears
ford racing non adjustable quadrant with firewall adjuster
GT front and rear sway bar
walbro 190 lph fuel pump
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Unread 11-18-2012   #4 (permalink)
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I recommend going back to efi or stay efi. I am 50+ years old I remember the days on at least every 12,000 miles or so new plugs wires carb rebuild etc. Why go back to that. Look around for a harness. Install it and start hooking things up and run codes. Get the codes and all of us can help. Believe me it will cost you more to go carb than fix the efi. By the time you pay for adapter, carb, fuel pump, older distributor or modify yours you can buy a used harness and fix your problems. Plus going to car you will probably go down on gas mileage and probably HP. I know will proper carb, tune and engine work can go up in HP but that cost $$$. Here to help. Maurice
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Unread 11-19-2012   #5 (permalink)
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I will run the codes again this weekend (sooner if i get the chance )then i will post them for you guys to look at. one q i have is while tinkering under the hood i have found some diods? they are like wiring harneass plugs but they just snap in. i have one of them unplugged right now cuz it then lowers the idle to the right rpm. (most of the time) I like efi, i just can't seem to figure ford early system out. lol. the moter seems to run just fine but the light comes on and off constantly and the idle randomly jumps up. when i hook the scanner to it, the light stays on and dont seem to read the o2 sensor (maybe the circuit has an open) but then while driving the light will go off for a few min then come back. I do like a good puzzle lol. Thanks for your support.
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Unread 11-20-2012   #6 (permalink)
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If you DITCH the EFI that car wont be able to PULL A FAT GIRL OFF A BIKE. But then again it cant ANYWAY!!! Peace Tom
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HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!!

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Unread 11-20-2012   #7 (permalink)
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that is not somthing i needed to visualize...way to go tom.
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1987 ford mustang 2.3l turbo
mods: 1988 t-bird turbocoupe engine w/ IHI turbo
88 t/c ecm with large vane air meter
volvo front mount intercooler with explorer radiator
AOD to t-5 swap, 8.8 posi swap with 3:55 gears
ford racing non adjustable quadrant with firewall adjuster
GT front and rear sway bar
walbro 190 lph fuel pump
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Unread 11-20-2012   #8 (permalink)
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Just messing around CHRIS!!! Peace Tom!!!
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HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!!

"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my ride"

I SPEND MONEY I DON'T HAVE, TO BUILD CARS I DON'T NEED,TO IMPRESS PEOPLE I DON'T KNOW.
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