[millerhighlife]

1987 black mustang 2.3l n/a 5speed just installed new gauges and suddenly car does not like oversized injectors

i have been doing some reading and need the following help
i recently did the injectors and noticed the car ecm is stuck on the closed circuit i think it is, this is dew to the car not knowing the engine temp dew to the new sending unit needed for the new gauges. I was wondering if i could trick it with a specific engine temp all the time with a specified resistor to make it read a specified either under 140' or running temp over 140' determined voltage possibly? And or put in two resistors inline with the pos wire between the temp sending unit and main harness on switches. doing this for one being the "cold" circuit being the resistor with its respected cold voltage output and when the motor reaches proper running temp watching the new gauge turn off the "cold" switch and turn on the "warm" switch? being the resistor with the out put of warm in its respected voltage If not just keep the stock sending unit hooked up to the respective electrical plug and have it read the ambient outside air temperature, reading cold winnipeg weather temps in the winter and hot temps in the summer all day but still the sensor wont heat up to the normal running temperature registering under 140' under the hood with all that space id assume, thus keeping the car in the cold loop...much help needed any helps! Now if this does or does not work would somehow getting the ecm reprogrammed for the bigger injectors the egr delete and a higher fuel pressure? Cuz it ran fine when i put them in there left it for a week now its clearly over fueling the engine. How do i get peak performance out of my oversized injectors with the car running how it did when the oversized injectors went in. the only thing i can think of is doing this is cuz the temp sensor is unplugged and the wires are receiving NO voltage what so ever il be praying to the FORD gods tonight thks all

[millerhighlife]

ok all you n/a 2.3l obd I absolute pressure sensor motors car owners only i beleave. i found by unplugging the engine temp sensor the computer it jumped the temp reading to the highest table (302'F-160'C)--(0.12vdc-o.54ohms). causing the motor to run lean if im wrong correct me. well i had a bank of resistors i tryed shorting out the two contacts on the temp sens plug with different output of resistors by doing this and much reading i found i was foling the computer to put in more or less fuel by leaning or shortning the open time of the injectors. now since i used 5.0L injectors in my motor by dooing this i have now changed what the computer understands as accaptable load tables this threw off all the programmed tables in the memory bank of the factory 2.3l computer...now by manually adjusting the restiance and voltage being read by the now "fooled" temp sens plug i can manually imput the information (voltage and resistance) i can compensate optimal air fuel mixture for the engine as the engine temp changes as well as the ambient outside air temp and for more or less "load" or elevation. its much to understand i apologize but now by doing this its like day and night..to make your own air fuel mixture on a older efi system is a powerful thing in a small horse engine. now keep in mind the o2 sens and the manifold absolute pressure sensors also measure and compensate for fuel mixture tables as well...hens turning the new resistor knob to much one way or the other the o2 sens will read the fuel mixture and if it goes out of the acctable table range it will intern send the motor into choke mode and will no longer use the o2 sens to help meter the air fuel and will run the car on its programmed choke air fuel table settings only and will run the car how it was programmed over sized injectors or not other mods or not and will most likely flood the engine and shut off like mine did...not to worrie set the variable resistor to about the half way point restart the car and readjust the resistor settings slowly for optimum performance...side not i don't know how well this works on other motors with STOCK FUEL INJECTORS THERE PRETTY TINY and i have no idea if the variable resistor idea settings will allow much more fuel into the motor thks

[millerhighlife]

ok hi again folks i spent all day finding the temperature to voltage out put and the range of restiance and voltage. il be poasting the whole chart and indicate the target zone range of voltage output in the chart and fine details of my findings tomorow night. for now il poast the steps of circut building and hook up range and type of variable resistor needed and the range out put needed to HIT a richer air fuel mixture...NOTE TO ALL THIS HAS ONLY BEEN TESTED ON A 87 STANG 2.3L N/A M.A.P ONLY WITH OVERSIZED INJECTORS AND THE STANDARD Emissions PACKAGE WITH THE D1L1 COMPUTER... this is a great way to get out every extra oz of horseys out of your 2.3l n/a m.a.p engines

[millerhighlife]

well below should be a link if i did it right to the proper chart needed for your stangs

[millerhighlife]

Fuel Injection Technical Library » Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT)

[millerhighlife]

well b4 i post all my theory, research and design and construction and operation instructions lets start simple with the simple operation intent and parts list. Well to begin with the simple theory behind my design. I have installed a standalone water temp gauge and had to replace the factory temp sens with the new one. Problem being that is one of the cars main way of metering how much fuel is needed to ensure proper air fuel mixtures for cleanliness performance and fuel economy. therefore i now have to some how send the proper signal in voltage back to the computer. Second prob now being is with that circuit out not receiving any voltage what so ever the car now relays on the closed choke circuit to run the car on pre programmed air/fuel mixtures only with out help with any other sensor imput. Since i have over sized injectors its just way to much fuel and the car will almost not run.
well with some hard number crunching charting and lots of tech talk with my electronic expert my dad lol i have now solved a way to now to only solve the preev problems i also stumbled upon a way to fool the car and make the computer it self hold open the injectors juss a bit longer or shorter "on" times by manually inputting false engine temperatures. well this is done by manually changing the voltage in variations from .8vdc to 4.91vdc over a instrument called a rheostat (controls voltage output by adding or decreasing the Resistance in the coiled wire contacting the wiper arm), after much fooling around i found the targetzone (area of air fuel mixture tables programmed into the computer where the factory emissions and horse power outputs are ac heaved). i have also found by turning down the dial (increasing the Resistance and decreasing the voltage output) it rich ens up the air fuel mixture and ultimately lets me use the full potential of my oversized injectors...its almost like reprogramming the computer to understand how to use the bigger injectors properly with over richning the mixture...to lean is worse way worse be carfull!!!
So after fooling around i found when the engine is above 140'F and i change the voltage output to more volts itle bring me down from the 140'F-1.35vdc air fuel mixture table and fool the car into putting slightly more choke on the motor and burn more gas, down to the 122'F-1.72vdc or the next more richer line the 104'F-2.16vdc i gain more power if the motor is actually 140'F, if not take your base engine temp reading and apply it to the proper line of the air fuel mixture...sub in the manual input in the corresponding voltage and re compensate...note i don't recommended turning the mixture tables leaner for less fuel consumption that leans the motor out and could be a real bad day for you...stay with in the targetzone or youl end up tripping the computer back to the closed circuit and the car will no longer run on your manually imputed air fuel tables itle be back on the pre programmed ones only...REMEMBER THIS IS ONLY ONE MANS EXPERIMENT AND IF YOU CHOOSE TO TRY IT YOUR AT YOUR OWN RISK JUST CUZ IT WORKED FOR ME DOESN'T MEAN YOU CANT SCREW SOMETHING BIG UP AND EITHER FRY YOUR ENGINE OR COMPUTER THKS... and i hope this adds power to all the under powered n/a 2.3ls out there

[millerhighlife]

PARTS YOU NEED: factory 5.0L fuel injectors, a stand alone water temp gauge, A WIDE BAND O2 SENS, a rheostat that does not exceed 120ohms Resistance and goes from 0-5VDC, thin gauge wire, and most important the engine temp-to-voltage output table on the link above, some decent electronic knolage (anyone can turn a knob but to understand what your doing so you dont over lean or over richen the mixtures) and to understand the importance of not straying to far from your correct operating temperatures correct air fuel mixture line (to rich it dies to lean youl need a new motor) hence my targetzone)

My targetzones is from the air fuel mixture line from 50'F-194'F this target zone was not just chosen it was accurately placed. after 50'F the car comes off the closed circuit and now runs on the open circuit receiving and using the sensors feedback and adjusting the mixture levels by the sensors input not just programmed lines. once ur car reaches the 176'F air fuel mixture line it pulls off 2 degree of spark plug timeing (retards the spark plug fire time 2 deg retarted), this is why i chose the 194'F line as the top bracket for the targetzone bc lets face it i dont ant any of my motors ever running hotter than 200'F good enough for me plus most 2.3ls dont make it much more past the 176'F line anyway if ur car is running proper in even its hottest day if it does check ur coolant leval and cleanliness ur rad fan operation and ur rad thermostat to ensure proper engine cooling...enough for now il post ALL CONSTRUCTION PROSSESS FOR THIS CIRCUT APPLICATION LATER