[tkezn786]

Ok, so I finally broke down and took my '93 2.3l LX to the shop to get the A/C fixed. Come to find out, the compressor clutch is shorting out. The shop told me that the only way to change the clutch is to change the compressor, evaporator, accumulator, and to recharge the system, all around costing $1,170.05. Needless to say my car is barely worth more than that. So does anyone know if it is possible to buy JUST the clutch and change JUST the clutch. If so PLEASE tell me.
Thanks.

[sgtb]

hi, I never had exactly that problem, but last year my compressor or probably the clutch only went out on my 2.3l. I converted it over to R134 for about $400 (for parts, oils, and freon).
I replaced the compressor, the expansion valve and the hoses (which included the accumulator-dryer can) and after flushing out the system and putting it under a vacuum for half a day or so. Then bought a 134 guage kit ($100), and a black light leak detection kit ($35) and added the new freon.

You can rent the tools at some auto parts stores - the vacuum pump and the guage sets on credit and get it all back when you return the tools. I got a 1 yr warranty on parts by replacing the three parts together.

I think that I paid about $20 to have the old R12 evacuated at a shop.

Probably a large portion of the cost you described is the R12 and labor. I also don't know why you have to replace the evaporator unless it has a hole in it or something. Try a different shop, even, see what they'll do labor wise if you supply the parts. Sometimes they don't like that very much, but othertimes their still glad to have the business.

For your original question, I don't know if you can only change the clutch, but I got a whole new A/C system for 1/3 of what that shop wants.

Hope this helps.

MB

[luniticlizard]

my girlfriends car has been having some a/c troubles so I have been looking at autobone for parts. They list a clutch only for 79.99 (new) and 49.99 (remanufactured). Don't know if that answers both of your questions though.

Originally Posted by sgtb

I converted it over to R134 for about $400 (for parts, oils, and freon).

How hard was this to do?

[sgtb]

>How hard was this to do?

It took me about 2 days working in my spare time. I spent about $180 on the new compressor with the clutch b/c that was what went out. I also replaced the hoses b/c they were leaking oil at the compressor (about $100). the hoses and compressor are pretty much a bolt on remove and replace job if you have some mechanical skills. Changing the expansion valve was a little trickier, since mine was in the middle of the line between the condenser and the dryer. I had to cut the metal tube and then get a kit with a housing and two compression fittings on it to insert the new one. It's not really hard, you just have to make sure to not cut off too much (or there is more $ to be spent). Then I bought some a/c flush and using an air compressor and an engine washing blow gun, I cleaned out the evaporator and the condenser. Then bolt up the new hoses (some of them have the "ford" disconects that require a special tool, but it is cheap, and you can probably rent it along with all the other tools at autozone or other parts stores that do that). After everything's connected then using a high vacuum pump to hold a vacuum and evacuate all the moisture from the system. (at very low pressure all the moisture "boils" at a "room temp" or turns to gas and evaporates as it is pulled out by the pump. Is also helps you check for leaks.)
after you pull a vacuum for a while several hours then you can close it off and make sure that it doesn't loose it - I let it sit over night- then get the freon and start filling it. (Oh, I also added the recommended amount of oil to the compressor before bolting on the hoses - pretty important step - I also put in some of the florescent die in with the oil - to check for pressure leaks with a black light after the system was running and for future inspections). Using the A/C gauge set to add the Freon to the correct levels for the current temp, your set to go. That's pretty much it. I did it about two years ago so I might have forgotten some of the smaller steps, but that is the nut shell. You could look on line for more specific instructions, like vacuum pressures and times and Freon levels etc. We're getting into the hot part of the summer here in N. TX and it's still cooling great. As long as you change the dryer (accumulator) and the expansion valve and the compressor at the same time AutoZone extended the warranty from 90 days to a year. I think that I remember hearing that most of the problems people were initially having with R134 was that they weren't changing the expansion valve as well. So be sure to do that if you convert. You have to (or at least should) change the dryer any time you open the system, and for me the compressor was the main reason to change it anyway since it went out. The car had over 240K miles before the original compressor went out.
anyway good luck if you try to upgrade. It's a lot cheaper to do this one yourself rather than pay a shop. Especially since you can get away from R12 (because of the $).
You'll also want to make sure that you don't have any leaks in the condenser and the evaporator - part of the reason for the extended vacuum hold and the yellow die in the oil.

mb