[chris]

ok i bought 87 2.3 lx no mods when i start car it runs rough but not bad enough to stall the car, then chugs black smoke for about 15 seconds then runs ok. after driving car for a while runs rich on acceleration and at an idol if i back off of throttle then push it again it will run ok for a couple of seconds then right back to running rich seems engine is dumping fuel into cyl watched spark while running seems ok also listened to injectors and all are still ticking while running rich i have also sprayed starting fluid around intake checking for leaks found none . it runs great then starts puffing smoke then runs good repeat. car runs about 130 degrees on coolant guage inside any comments would be appriciated thnks

replaced following
tps
cleaned carbon from egr
map
air filter
plugs and wires
ign control " bottom of distributer"
ign coil
coolant sensor on intake manifold

[darrent15]

I am having the same problem somewhat. I have a 87 2.3 lx. I am unable to keep a steady idle and burning too much gas. I have replaced the fuel injectors twice, oxygen sensor, egr sensor, egr valve, vapor canistor. After having replaced these, I still get a rough idle, especially when throwing the car in reverse, the idle drops and then engine shuts off. before the car used shut off when coming to a stop. Also I have a problem with the egr valve, when i put it on a computer i got a code 34 egr valve too high or something. Also I have a piece to the egr valve and a vacuum hose that has melted. I have taped it up as much as i could. So I am working on the situation. I need all the help I can get. I am still trying the get another set of fuel injectors. What kind do you have, if possible the part number.

[redhotstang00]

Have you guys check the fuel pressure? The haynes manual says 30 - 45 psi

I would check that before buying any more injectors..

[chris]

yes i checked the fuel pressure im running 33 lbs of pressure
pulled plugs while miss was present they were black with carbon i replaced them again today same symptom
missing 15 sec @ a time when idoling about 2 min apart

[redhotstang00]

I had somewhat the same problem i was running to rich i had a vac. line unplugs from the map sensor that casue the problem.. How your Vac. Lines?

also found thing on a search

This is very common visual condition on our race engines. Soft, black, sooty, dry-looking carbon. This indicates a rich mixture, weak ignition or wrong heat range plug (too cold).
You will first need to verify plug heat range. On carbureted engines, check choke as well as choke pull-off (if equipped) for proper function and adjustment. On fuel injected engines, check for clogged injectors and the cold-start valve and circuit. You also need to check for correct fuel pressure settings.
As a general rule on all computer-controlled engines, you need to also make sure that all input signals to the computer are working and accurate. This includes, but is not limited to, all temperature and pressure sensors as well as the EFI system components.
Lastly on all engines, check for vacuum leaks and weak spark or low voltage output. (Good reason for a better coil and aftermarket ignition unit "amplifier").

Hope this help you out if not i'll or someone will ge tyou running good..:thumbsup

[chris]

i dont hear any leaks and i replaced the map also
i washed the engine ( aready missing ) and didnt seem to hesitate any worse than before so i dont believe to have any vac leaks or any bad ign wire connection
i replaced the o2 sensor today still no change
this miss is every time i start the car once i get going seems to clear out hasnt been doing it as bad while driving but is still present
check engine light still hasnt come on im averaging 175 lbs comp
soot on plugs was black and dry i had platnium plugs in it but a buddy told me to try autolites tried still no luck im resetting codes and will check them again in about 30 min will let u know what codes i come up with i have also changed the fuel filter seems to have a power loss while driving thanks for the advise. any more? i am open to any suggestions!!!
engine doesnt run any diffrent wether egr wires are plugged in or unpluged does this seem right i can watch the diaphram move when i throttle up the car but some times when i rev the car the thermactor solenoid is silent and the diphram doesnt move may or may not help?

[chris]

when i cant get the stang to start spuddering (while im working on it) i just turn off the car and start it again it will start stuttering again in about 30 seconds after starts

[redhotstang00]

I'm running out of things, ok how the injectors? all working also how about the timing? is it set right? All the vac. line hook up in the right spot?

what it idle at?

no code or check engine light?

[racecar18]

me and my buddy seems to think u may need it to be scanned using a OBD-I scanner. my buddy seems to think u might have the wrong distrubator timing and i think its a on board computer problem and we also think it could be both.

[chris]

i have pulled code 15
but what does it mean
rom test failure
or
power interupt to computer memory
pls help

[macmichael]

Originally Posted by chris

i have pulled code 15
but what does it mean
rom test failure
or
power interupt to computer memory
pls help

try cleaning the connectors for the computer wiring, the pins may be corroded or have moisture in the connectors, spray them out with some electronic cleaner and then after they are dry coat them with some silicone dielectic grease....also make sure your battery connections are clean and tight.....if this doesn't work then it sounds as if the computer or wiring is failing. good luck..

[chris]

i pulled connectors cleaned and dielectric greased them they didnt look to bad. i have a couple or parts cars about 200 miles away so it will be a few days till i get to them is the rom seperate or part of the computer ill keep checking in and thanks for the comments
I look at it this way when i find the problem i probably wont have any emmissions problems for quite a while



thanks chris

[darrent15]

I seem to have another problem, whenever i roll up my windows the idle on my car drops and then the engine shakes like crazy. This is when Im parked. Also I havent checked the fuel pressure yet, will check on it this weekend. Whenever Im going about 45 - 60 mph I can smell the gas. Not a good sign. meaning the engine is getting more gas then it should. I will also check the vac lines, I have order a vac line kit from mustangsunlimited. I will let you guys know how everything turns out.

[Rustang]

hate to sound like a one trick pony, but the one thing that you haven't done is clean out your intake. There were maintenance bulletins put out by Ford that indicates that clogged/dead IAC valve could really mess with your idle, and cleaning mine did help. It's bolted to the back of the intake manifold with an electrical plug at the one end. unbolt the thing and blow the carbon buildup out of it - mine took about 20 qtips and half a can of throttle body cleaner. Then I cleaned out the passage from the valve into the intake manifold as well as much as I could wipe out with a clean rag. That stopped my idle stutter/stall problems for the most part. Don't forget, the right amount of fuel and not enough air will still seem rich. I think the rest might be vacuum related as I still have a couple of leaks.



Good luck.

[74stang2togo]

Make sure your throttle position sensor voltage is set correctly... My '88 LX would hunt for idle (and never find it) run so rich it killed every mosquito for miles around, and got about 3 miles to the gallon when my TPS went bad. The IAC would be suspect if it was only happening at idle and in traffic, but if it's happening at highway speeds the IAC either isn't the problem, or isn't the ONLY Problem.