cuts off during idle, and hesistates while accerating, alot of oil in the intake.
hey i got a 2.3 n/a and i just got back from overseas having left the car sit outside all summer. so when i came back to start it i had to push it down like 3 hills till it finally turned over but it was giving me ploblems. so now it hesistates and has nearly left me sit as i tried to go through an intersection. It also idles kind of erraticly and can cut off if i dont feed petrol.
I just changed plugs today and the hesistation is better, but the old ones still look alright so im worried the problem could come back. It still cuts during idle, but its not as erratic. but in taking off the intake to change the plugs i noticed a great deal of oil pooled at the bottom of the throttle body and some even driped out! ive been told that a little oil in the intake is supposed to happen, but this raises alarms all though my head.
the change of plugs was a suggestion and so is getting my codes read. I've also thought about a fuel problem. does anyone have an idea how i can fix this issue? I cant seem to stop little things from happening to my car and ill never get to do my svo swap if i keep spending money keeping it on the road!!!!
im keeping the intake off till i get cold air cause i like the sound
__________________
As you may have guessed- I'm a young gun with dreams of pimpin' my baby 2.3n/a into a fire-breathin Shadow Runner.
so far:
1987 hatchback mustang
2.3L, replaced to a '89
Air silencer removed
t-5 all the way
1400 watt sound system w/ twin 12" chrome subs
-The shadow runner was a legendary chinese horse that could outrun its own shadow[/size]
oil in the intake is bad. it will cause carbon build up. take the air breather hose off that feeds into the throttle body from the crank case, and leave it off if you have one. run it out of gas and refill with premium then use gum out In the intake with the car running and giving it gas. then run it on the freeway to clean the pistons 95 miles an hour plus for 20 minutes. your fuel pump may be on its way out.
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DSS 331 stroker, AFR 185 heads, Performer rpm 2 intake, Accufab 75 mm race TB, 30lb injectors, 80 mm Pro-M mass air, Extreme energy cam 266.
Anderson ford power pipe the big one, Ford motor sport shorty headers, Bassani x pipe custom cat back with flows, World class T5, center force duel friction clutch.
Changing the plugs is a great start. The oil in the intake can be caused by a bad PCV valve or a bad breather element. The hesitation and stalling can be caused by several things, ranging from the fuel pump going out, to rotten fuel (from sitting). Valvoline makes a synthetic Throttle-Body cleaner just for cleaning the throttle body and intake manifold of fuel-injected cars. It's a strong cleaner, but won't harm plastic parts in the fuel system the way standard carburetor cleaners can. Also, try a bottle of Lucas fuel system treatment with your next fill-up. It lubricates the fuel system, cleans it of most/all dirt, and burns hot so it cleans carbon out of the engine. I wouldn't waste the money on premium gas, as the 93 octane will only hurt a rich fuel mixture worse by adding more resistance to combustion, regular 87 octane will do fine. Other good possibilities are the idle air control motor (these like to stick if they sit awhile, especially if there's oil in the intake) or the Throttle Position Sensor (Ford TPSs sometimes develop "dead spots" if they are in the same position for long periods of time.) The Idle Air Control can usually be cleaned, either with the same Valvoline throttle-body cleaner mentioned earlier for a quick cleaning, or by pouring some Marvel Mystery Oil or Dexron III/Mercon Automatic Transmission fluid in it and letting it set overnight, followed by the Valvoline spray the next morning for a very thorough cleaning and lubrication. The TPS can be adjusted, sometimes even with a "dead spot" but if it's developed one will usually need to be replaced.
I really wouldn't recommend the 95mph for 20 minutes, especially if you're having problems, most 2.3-powered cars have trouble getting up to that speed range (manual tranny cars can usually do it if you leave the hammer down long enough) and if your problem is fuel system related you could do serious engine damage running it that hard for that long. Also, running any EFI car out of gas, for any reason, is really a bad idea, as any dirt in the tank will be sucked up to/through the fuel strainer attached to the fuel pump. This dirt clogging the strainer or getting into the pump can damage the pump. The vacuum hose from the crankcase (usually the valve cover, near the oil cap, on a 2.3) that runs to the intake/throttle body is required by law in most states, and is in general a good idea, as it keeps blow-by-blow gases out of the engine compartment and driver's compartment of the car. Also leaving the air intake hose off is a very bad idea, as the engine will be pulling in unfiltered air as long as you run it that way. Driving through one bad construction zone, dust storm, or even near a large tract of grass being mowed can pull in particles that can cause either immediate or long-term engine damage.
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1976 Ford Mustang II Ghia: 302 with a 600cfm Edelbrock carb, Edelbrock Performer 289 intake, Dynomax Blackjack headers, 2.5" exhaust with Flowmaster Super 44s. RJS 11-gallon fuel cell, C4 tranny, chrome 16" pony wheels, fuzzy dice, brown vinyl half-top, and painted in the tackiest color ever (harvest gold, that's why I call it "The Goldenrod").
Also have a 2003 Dodge Ram (lightly modded daily driver/tow rig/office/dining room/home away from home/workshop... I call it "The Big Blue Dawg".)
Changing the plugs is a great start. The oil in the intake can be caused by a bad PCV valve or a bad breather element. The hesitation and stalling can be caused by several things, ranging from the fuel pump going out, to rotten fuel (from sitting). Valvoline makes a synthetic Throttle-Body cleaner just for cleaning the throttle body and intake manifold of fuel-injected cars. It's a strong cleaner, but won't harm plastic parts in the fuel system the way standard carburetor cleaners can. Also, try a bottle of Lucas fuel system treatment with your next fill-up. It lubricates the fuel system, cleans it of most/all dirt, and burns hot so it cleans carbon out of the engine. I wouldn't waste the money on premium gas, as the 93 octane will only hurt a rich fuel mixture worse by adding more resistance to combustion, regular 87 octane will do fine. Other good possibilities are the idle air control motor (these like to stick if they sit awhile, especially if there's oil in the intake) or the Throttle Position Sensor (Ford TPSs sometimes develop "dead spots" if they are in the same position for long periods of time.) The Idle Air Control can usually be cleaned, either with the same Valvoline throttle-body cleaner mentioned earlier for a quick cleaning, or by pouring some Marvel Mystery Oil or Dexron III/Mercon Automatic Transmission fluid in it and letting it set overnight, followed by the Valvoline spray the next morning for a very thorough cleaning and lubrication. The TPS can be adjusted, sometimes even with a "dead spot" but if it's developed one will usually need to be replaced.
I really wouldn't recommend the 95mph for 20 minutes, especially if you're having problems, most 2.3-powered cars have trouble getting up to that speed range (manual tranny cars can usually do it if you leave the hammer down long enough) and if your problem is fuel system related you could do serious engine damage running it that hard for that long. Also, running any EFI car out of gas, for any reason, is really a bad idea, as any dirt in the tank will be sucked up to/through the fuel strainer attached to the fuel pump. This dirt clogging the strainer or getting into the pump can damage the pump. The vacuum hose from the crankcase (usually the valve cover, near the oil cap, on a 2.3) that runs to the intake/throttle body is required by law in most states, and is in general a good idea, as it keeps blow-by-blow gases out of the engine compartment and driver's compartment of the car. Also leaving the air intake hose off is a very bad idea, as the engine will be pulling in unfiltered air as long as you run it that way. Driving through one bad construction zone, dust storm, or even near a large tract of grass being mowed can pull in particles that can cause either immediate or long-term engine damage.
the thing i hadnt mentioned b4 was the intake leak i had, u know that whistle ish. but today i fixed it at but my intake back so i dont suck in a duck or somin like that.
While i had the intake apart (i only removed the upper intake cause the lower one is a pain) i looked inside the upper intake and i swear if i struck a match inside of there all the light would have been sucked into the black oil caked inside. I need to get rid of that. It starts behind the throttle body's flange/flapper thingy (i feel like and uber-noob for not knowing its real name) and from there probably into the engine its not pretty.
also the hesistation is all gone from the running so it was probably rotten fuel (cept for the weak point it has had right around 2400 rpms). The issue is now that when its not warm, like over 140, then it cuts in idle. Not always, but much of the time. Drifting back into a parking space, sitting, turning, etc.
U guys know alot about these cars and i swear if ne people can help me make it till my car gets where it needs to be it will be yall. tnx
p.s. what size k&n filter do i need to build a make-shift cold air intake?
__________________
As you may have guessed- I'm a young gun with dreams of pimpin' my baby 2.3n/a into a fire-breathin Shadow Runner.
so far:
1987 hatchback mustang
2.3L, replaced to a '89
Air silencer removed
t-5 all the way
1400 watt sound system w/ twin 12" chrome subs
-The shadow runner was a legendary chinese horse that could outrun its own shadow[/size]
ok the hesistation is bak..
im changin the filter.... i hope it dont get worse than that.
__________________
As you may have guessed- I'm a young gun with dreams of pimpin' my baby 2.3n/a into a fire-breathin Shadow Runner.
so far:
1987 hatchback mustang
2.3L, replaced to a '89
Air silencer removed
t-5 all the way
1400 watt sound system w/ twin 12" chrome subs
-The shadow runner was a legendary chinese horse that could outrun its own shadow[/size]
No the filter change did not help! (but disconnecting the inertia switch and running the car dry is a great way to relieve fuel pressure)I took it on a test run and got very pissed, very fast. so i checked the distributer for damage and found soot on the distibuter side of the coil to distributer wire, and rust on the coil side. I cleaned it all up, tested it, but only went like 50 meters befor slaming into reverse and speeding down hill into my driveway in frustration....
...i really need to get a diagnosic...
im thinking that all thats left is the fuel pump. Less i got some bad sensors. The crazy thing is the hotter the car, usually it run better. Sometimes its great, and i can fly, amazingly for a 88hp (gotta b the new 89 engine is so much better than my origional). but other times, like this morning, it lopes in idle and cuts, and doesnt really start well, and cuts, and hesistates while accelerating.
freakin piss off......Ne suggestions?
__________________
As you may have guessed- I'm a young gun with dreams of pimpin' my baby 2.3n/a into a fire-breathin Shadow Runner.
so far:
1987 hatchback mustang
2.3L, replaced to a '89
Air silencer removed
t-5 all the way
1400 watt sound system w/ twin 12" chrome subs
-The shadow runner was a legendary chinese horse that could outrun its own shadow[/size]
Just wanted to update. Since the filter change i have had no hesistation. Only that first night.
However i still have an a$$ load of touble starting the thing when its cold, and oil in the intake. I intend on changing the oil this friday tho.
Ne ideas on the cold start? Imma get a full inspection tomorrow.
thanks for the support.
__________________
As you may have guessed- I'm a young gun with dreams of pimpin' my baby 2.3n/a into a fire-breathin Shadow Runner.
so far:
1987 hatchback mustang
2.3L, replaced to a '89
Air silencer removed
t-5 all the way
1400 watt sound system w/ twin 12" chrome subs
-The shadow runner was a legendary chinese horse that could outrun its own shadow[/size]
1990 Mustang LX, 2.3T, 2.5 Intercooler Piping, Front Mount Intercooler, Ported And Polished Upper And Lower Intake, BBK T/B, Ported And Polished Big Valve Head, Ranger Roller Cam And Roller Rockers, Forged Pistons And Rods, 8.8 Rearend, 373 Gears, BBK Short Throw Shifter, And A Few More Mods Ill Keep To My Self ;-)
cuts off during idle, and hesistates while accerating, alot of oil in the intake. 
