ok i just traded my honda for a 91 lx with the 2.3 svo swap in it but the problem is when its in boost its just not pulling like it should i do know that it does have flowmasters on it which i will be taking off asap but could that be the only problem as to why its not running right??? it is throwing a code but i have not had it checked to see wat the code is it is running rich but im not sure wich injectors are in the car it was just rebuilt less than 700 miles ago by the previous owner and the car runs good out of boost but in boost it doesnt respond for **** please help me i dont want to sell this car and go back to the honda crowd i already know!!!!!!!!!
If it's throwing a code, the computer is automatically retarding the ignition timing, overcompensating the fuel curve to avoid detonation, and reducing the amount of boost. That alone will kill your horsepower by a sizeable amount.
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1976 Ford Mustang II Ghia: 302 with a 600cfm Edelbrock carb, Edelbrock Performer 289 intake, Dynomax Blackjack headers, 2.5" exhaust with Flowmaster Super 44s. RJS 11-gallon fuel cell, C4 tranny, chrome 16" pony wheels, fuzzy dice, brown vinyl half-top, and painted in the tackiest color ever (harvest gold, that's why I call it "The Goldenrod").
Also have a 2003 Dodge Ram (lightly modded daily driver/tow rig/office/dining room/home away from home/workshop... I call it "The Big Blue Dawg".)
ok so its basicly putting it in a limp mode so to say??? so would you suggest getting the code checked and go from there i mean the car runs good but as soon as it hits boost it gos to **** and when i run it and then kill it you can smell gas strong i have ven hit 20 psi and it just stalls and wont pull i mean it will go but not like it should be pulling at say 15-20lbs of boost
Yeah that's pretty much what I meant, also, that Flowmaster muffler isn't helping any, for some reason turbo motors don't like them much (there's an actual scientific reason, but I can't remember it off hand). Also, what fuel are you running? 93 octane is a MUST with a 2.3 turbo, with 87 octane the engine will run like crap in general, and unless your car still has the SVO fuel-select switch that lets you select between regular and premium fuel, it could hurt the engine.
You need to find out what that code(s) is/are (remembering that a code is just the symptom, not necessarily the actual problem) and diagnose the problem to find out what's going on and fix it.
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1976 Ford Mustang II Ghia: 302 with a 600cfm Edelbrock carb, Edelbrock Performer 289 intake, Dynomax Blackjack headers, 2.5" exhaust with Flowmaster Super 44s. RJS 11-gallon fuel cell, C4 tranny, chrome 16" pony wheels, fuzzy dice, brown vinyl half-top, and painted in the tackiest color ever (harvest gold, that's why I call it "The Goldenrod").
Also have a 2003 Dodge Ram (lightly modded daily driver/tow rig/office/dining room/home away from home/workshop... I call it "The Big Blue Dawg".)
Wow man, definitely get the code checked and go from there. There's no way we can help you out unless we know what the ECU is thinking.
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Sometimes I think that government fits that old-fashioned definition of a baby: An alimentary canal with an appetite at one end and no sense of responsibility at the other.
- Ronald Reagan
Go to a chain auto parts store (Advance, O'Reily, etc) and see if they will loan you a code reader (or pull the codes for you). Advance does this, and so do most of their competition.
Once you have the code, we can help - though I suspect its something obvious. Swaps like this often have problems, usually with parts that aren't QUITE what's needed for the whole thing to co-exist. With only 700 miles on the job, I am suspicious that the prior owner left you some "surprises", ie, he was hitting error codes that called for more money on parts and was evading the problem by using a tuner to override the error codes, whereafter the car would run ok for another few hundred miles, then fall back into limp/error status.
Find out what the codes are (I won't say right now, but I have an idea you will find at least 2) and get back to us.
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tripleblack
"You can never be free until you let yourself go."
will do today autozaone will pull the codes for free and as for the fuel in not sure if its premium or not and i have not found any sort of fuel select switch were would it be found?? as for the owner not doing it right cant really vouch for that but it does seem to be out together pretty good but there are a few things on the car that are done wrong and ill have to redo it ill get to you guys asap..thanks
john
On the original 84-86 SVOs it was visible below the dash on the driver's side. A lot of people don't even swap the switch over, and just run premium fuel, I'm not sure what changes they make when they eliminate the switch (which was put there by Ford to allow SVO owners to safely use their cars in Mexico, where 87 octane is high-grade stuff, without burning up the engine/turbo, as well as allowing a cash-strapped SVO owner to get buy on a tank of 87 octane when needed.) The switch just makes a few changes in the fuel and ignition timing programming of the car, as well as limiting boost.
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1976 Ford Mustang II Ghia: 302 with a 600cfm Edelbrock carb, Edelbrock Performer 289 intake, Dynomax Blackjack headers, 2.5" exhaust with Flowmaster Super 44s. RJS 11-gallon fuel cell, C4 tranny, chrome 16" pony wheels, fuzzy dice, brown vinyl half-top, and painted in the tackiest color ever (harvest gold, that's why I call it "The Goldenrod").
Also have a 2003 Dodge Ram (lightly modded daily driver/tow rig/office/dining room/home away from home/workshop... I call it "The Big Blue Dawg".)
ok i was drivig last night and its like as soon as it hits boost you can smell fuel strong and in 3rd 4th and 5th gears if you just give it gas it will kinda stall wont move but if you feather the throttle it will slowly pick up i know im going to go and have to code checked probley tuesday to see wat it is and im going to check over all the vacumme lines once more thanks for the help so far guys...
2.3 turbo choking in boost 
