[radar3d]

Help car keeps dying on me. When I start it up cold it starts fine and runs about 20 min then just "DIES". It will not restart for a few minutes. After a few minutes it starts right up idles fine then dies. Amount of time it runs seam directly proportional to the amount of time it has for "Something" to cool down. I am thinking fuel pump. When it is running I can press the relief valve and gas comes out, but right after it stalls all pressure is already gone for the most part (no squirt). I don't really have the $$$ to blow replacing good parts. I think I need a guage I can put on that relief valve does it have a specific name etc.? Help...

[evintho]

Schraeder valve. After it stalls and you're checking fuel pressure, is the key off or on? If it's off, you're pump isn't running hence no fuel pressure. If it's on, can you hear the pump running? If it's running then your pump is probably good. Could be a bad fuel pump relay, bad regulator or clogged fuel filter. Possibly the fuel dampner, but I doubt it.

Also, the symptoms being that it shuts down when hot then fires after cooling down a bit sound like the classic overheated TFI. An inherent design flaw by Ford. The TFI ignition module is mounted on the distributor right next to the hot engine block. Inside the TFI are small electrical components that are heat sensitive. When they get too hot they tend to interupt the electrical flow from the PIP thus creating a no spark condition. A pretty common occurence on early Ford EFI 2.3's. Short term remedy is a new Motorcraft TFI. Long term is a TFI relocation kit. Here's some interesting reading...........
http://www.autosafety.org/article.php?did=1216&scid=185

First thing I would do is run codes to see if it's electrical. Next, make sure the key is on after it stalls and then check fuel pressure with a gauge connected to your schreader valve. If pressure is good, I'd test and/or replace the relay followed by the fuel filter and FPR. That's my $.02. Maybe Fastest4d will chime in.

[radar3d]

I had already replaced the fuel filter prior to post. I will check the TFI, and go down your list once I find them (I'm no mech, "but I ain't skeered"). Thanks for your reply, I was wondering if these forums thingy's would bring any responses.

Do you know a good place to get new electrical connectors (heck even fluid connectors for fuel etc.)? With this being an 88 every one I try to take apart breaks from being old and brittle.

[radar3d]

P.S. I had checked the fuel pressure after it stalled, the pump goes off with the ignition turned to on.

One time I started the engine and laid down under the fuel tank and listened to the pump and it goes off at the same time the engine stalls.

I don't know whether the engine stalls because the pump goes off, or if the pump goes off because the engine stalls.

If I leave the ignition on and releive pressure in the line should the pump come on to maintain pressure, or stay off because the engine is stalled?

How do I test the:
1. TFI
2. fuel pump relay
3. regulator

[radar3d]

Got a good place to get a TFI relocation kit?

[evintho]

The engine stalls because the pump goes off. If the key is on and you relieve pressure in the line, the pump should come or stay on to build pressure. The pump is run electrically. Sounds like a fuel pump problem, although I don't think it's the pump. I'll bet it's the fuel pump relay, located under the seat, I believe. As far as testing the electrical components, I'm not sure. We need an electrical guru to chime in for that. Replace your relay first and see if that alleviates the problem. They do wear out and it's a pretty common occurence. Cheap too! Definitely run codes. Buy a code scanner. You'll use it a lot! This is what I use.........
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...artnumber=3143

Here's electrical connectors. About halfway down the page....................
http://www.forced4.com/store.html

Here's fuel line connectors.........................
http://www.ronmorrisperformance.com/...gs%26Fuel_Line

You can get TFI relocation kits off Ebay for about $25 although I don't see any on there now. They come on all the time. You can get 'em at the junkyard although I'm not sure which cars they come on. I think maybe 90's Aerostar vans and others?

[radar3d]

Got fuel pressure gauge. Pressure seems to be fine. When I turn the key on it pressurizes to about 30 psi, start the car pressure maintains at between 30-32 psi when the ignition gets turned off pressure goes to 39 and hangs out for a minute and slowly goes down. After that the pressure jumps to 39 each time ignition is turned on (car not started) pump runs for a couple seconds pressures up to 39 then shuts off and does not come back on when pressure is bled off, but does if key is cycled again.

Started the car and let it run with gauge hooked up. Ran for about 20 min. then just died, but still had fuel pressure, so I assume it is not the pump or anything responsible for getting the line at least pressurized. Pump shuts off after car stalls.

Next...

[evintho]

On turbo cars (and I assume N/A also) optimum fuel pressure is 39 psi. Yours pressurizes at 30-32 with the key on and running but when you shut it off it shoots to 39. That might be right. With no fuel going through the injectors, the pump builds it back up to the correct 39. Even at 30-32 that should be enough to keep the car running, which leads me back to the overheated TFI issue. I think you need to run codes.

[radar3d]

Will it even come up with a code if it is not lighting the Check Engine light?

[radar3d]

ALL BETTER!!!!!!! Was the ignition module (TFI). Thanks for the help...