Here are some pics of my bro's 2.3 along with build up info from another post.
Went to the 5.7 inch rod KB piston conversion. The pistons were $122 from Summit at the time. Also put in file fit rings. The block was bored .30 and parallel decked.
Rods cost me $50 Canadian (about $5 US lol) and were considerably lighter than the stock four cylinder rods even though they were 1/2" longer. ARP waveloc rod bolts were installed as well. The rods were debeamed and polished.
I also got the 89 grm tool steel pins. Lightened the rotating assembly by 2 pounds when everything was totalled up. One of the high po mags published an article which stated that for every 100 grams taken out of the RA, 1/10 th would come off the 1/4.
I bought a windage tray from Esslinger and installed that during the build up.
I heavily ported the heads and relocated the exhaust port upwards. Manley 1.89/1.59 valves were installed and the combustion chambers were valve relieved. The head was then milled to achieve 10.5 to 1 compression.
Also installed was a Ranger roller cam and followers. I also got a Ranger header and ceramic/aluminum coated it. Rest of the exhaust was 2.25 out the back minus the cat with a Flowtech Terminator muffler.
The Intakes were ported and polished and port matched to the head. All internally projected fittings were cut down even with the intake wall. The TB was half shafted to increase flow. My own phenolic spacers were also installed during the buildup. It also has a rail mount gauge and Kirhban regulator.
For the timing, we got the round tooth gear set from Race engineering in Florida. Very light and adjustable. I also bought a %50 underdrive crank pulley from Unorthodox Racing and swiss cheesed the factory pulleys to lighten them.
I also bought a rice rocket CAI that came with a K&N filter which will be modified to take air directly from outside.
Other goodies include MSD 8.8 Wires and Coil, distributor cap and rotor, Turbo aluminum valve cover and Bosch +4 plugs.
Once the engine was running and the timing was set with no detonation, I disconnected the knock sensor. Those things kill the performance of the 2.3.
The last thing it needs, besides finishing the cold air box, is a newer mass air conversion. That alone is worth 17 hp on a stock 2.3. I also have some idiot making an aluminum drive shaft for it but he has been working on it for over a year (always too damn busy).
Performance gain was substanial with not a huge cost. Maybe $1200 U.S.
I finally got a picture of the air silencer location. The hilighted part is the silencer. You will need to take it off and remove its guts.if you need a picture of the inside, let me know and i can get that too
There is kind of a debate so to speak about what exactly is the air silencer. Some say it's the thing by the radiator that funnels air into the airbox. Others say it's the tube between the MAF (or airbox if it's speed density) and the throttle body. Whatever you call either piece, both of them need to be removed and/or replaced. I would recommend sawing off the bottom of the airbox to completely exposing the full surface area of the air filter. Also, replace the section between the MAF and the TB with 3" PVC pipe.
88 2.3 Mustang Hatchback - 2.3L Hatch with SN95 suspension and brake goodies, 8.8 3.73 track-loc, 5 lug, rear discs, Ranger header, ported head, Ranger roller cam, adjustable Race Engineering cam pulley (ret 4*), gutted upper intake. Currently rebuilding an 88TC engine! :D Check out my website for details and pics of my Stang.
1994 Ford Explorer Sport - 2 door 4.0 V6 5spd
Actually, the silencer on the 2.3 is the piece that stang 2_3 has highlighted in his picture. If you take it off and look inside, you will see the smaller restrictive tube.
Originally posted by Flex The PVC conversion is the easiest. That silencer really chokes of the air and removing it helps the engine breath. Next thing to do is half shaft the TB and really get some air going in there.
How to "half shaft" the TB? I just put a larger cam and larger valves into my 88 2.3 and increased the exhaust. I'm looking for intake upgrades. Planning on the PVC move for the silencer, but would like to improve the TB as well.
Anyone think RAM AIR would help? Got a scoop (82 capri GT hood) I could use. Ideas on setup?
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1988 LX 2.3NA Cammed (@.050 duration .201/210 Lobe center angle @ 112 degrees Lift is .400/.406) 1.89/1.59 cheater valves, 30degree keepers, HD valve springs. 3" exhaust pipe intake. 5-speed MT.
1966 Notchback (in storage slowly rotting away) 289 cid factory original. Begging to be restored.
pnyxps66, which cam did you put into your 2.3 (what are the specs), and did you keep the engine speed-density EFI?? I would like to help my 90 EFI 4 cyl get a little more power, but I don't want a cam that will screw up my EFI and make it run like crap. Any suggestions?
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66 Coupe - CandyApple Red, 2 barrel 289, C4.
66 Coupe - (father-daughter project). Tangier Orange, 302 with AOD, 17 inch Bullit wheels.
69 F-100 - 351c. Emerald Green Metallic paint. Still "in progress".
68 Barracuda - Rusted out project. 318 in the frame rails for now. Maybe a 360 in the future.
00 Mustang - (son's car) V6, 18 inch Saleen wheels.
I was interested ion improving my daily driver pony and started with the internals. I went with a custom grind cam from COMP cams, using lobes they already offered for the 2300. The specs I went with are below:
@.050 duration .201/210
Lobe center angle @ 112 degrees
Lift is .400/.406
The cam is not the most radical out there, but with my computer dyno program, it was turning 130 (brake)HP and 170lb/ft torque at 4K RPM with 350cc air flow availability. Stock was pulling about 50HP and the power curve went down hill dramatically after 4K RPM. I haven't been able to measure the airflow I'm getting now, I don't know the size of the TB - I think it's 60MM. I'd love to increase the throughput of that, or quantify what I'm getting now to more accurately get a more accurate power output reading.
I was interested in keeping the original computer equipment, and maintain a reasonable amount of fuel economy. I drive 76 miles round trip to work every day, and with the crisis going on, I needed to get off my V-6 truck. This cam works great with the stock bottom end, and I even increased the valves to 1.89/1.59 (stock length) and heavier valve springs from Racerwalsh.com. Additionally, I had the head milled to increase the compression ratio to 10:1. The engine is running now, and I have been pleased with it. I've also redone the exhaust with 2.25" pipe off the manifold to a "bullet" muffler, then manufactured a Y pipe to dual exhaust with 5.0 ends coming out of twin Flowmaster 50 series delta tech mufflers. Additionally, I removed that stupid intake baffle (which has a RESTRICTING pipe of only 1") and replaced it with a custom mandrel bent 3" stainless exhaust pipe. The engine was so restricted, it wouldn't even hold a steady idle - it idled like it was "breathing". I will be wraping the intake pipe with some aluminum and tar "roofing" material usually used to seal aluminum mobile home roofs. This is the beginning of the project, I intend to add a turbo package, and beef up the rear end with an 8.8 with 3.51 +/- gears. But that gets into the dream realm.
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1988 LX 2.3NA Cammed (@.050 duration .201/210 Lobe center angle @ 112 degrees Lift is .400/.406) 1.89/1.59 cheater valves, 30degree keepers, HD valve springs. 3" exhaust pipe intake. 5-speed MT.
1966 Notchback (in storage slowly rotting away) 289 cid factory original. Begging to be restored.
the air intake silencer (which is no longer of any use to me anyways due to the turbo motor under my hood) is a useless peice of crap, you guys are right for removing it, i did before the turbo conversion, and it ran better, i still dont have the turbo running though.
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1985 Merkur XR4Ti
- 2.3L I4 Turbo (Lima Block) - 2.25" Straight pipe - .48 A/R Garrett T3 - Open Air Filter - Stereo (Less Important)
1988 Ford Mustang - 2.3L I4 N/A (Lima Block)
- R.I.P. Merkur is German for Mercury, and Mercury is a Division of Ford, so IT IS A FORD!!!
pnyxps66,
Sorry I haven't responded sooner but never got thread notification. With all your breathing mods, you should change to the MASS air computer. It is worth 17 hp on a stock Mustang 2.3 and is worth potentially more to a modded one. Have you disconnected the knock sensor?
My vehicle neither has a knock sensor or a MASS isr flow sonsor. It's a speed - density motor. I believe the timing of really still retarded even though I have advanced it +4 degrees.
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1988 LX 2.3NA Cammed (@.050 duration .201/210 Lobe center angle @ 112 degrees Lift is .400/.406) 1.89/1.59 cheater valves, 30degree keepers, HD valve springs. 3" exhaust pipe intake. 5-speed MT.
1966 Notchback (in storage slowly rotting away) 289 cid factory original. Begging to be restored.
To my knowledge, they all have a knock sensor whether they are speed desity or not. My brother's 89 has one and it is speed density as well. It is located on the front of the upper intake near the throttle linkage lines.
I understood the knock sensor to be located on the engine block by the crankshaft, and was there to sense unusual engine vibrations (to use a broad term). I know the sensor you are referring to, but thought that was a different emmission sensor. I've been wrong before, and dont mind the clarification. Thanks.
OK, so how do you disable the little sucker?
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1988 LX 2.3NA Cammed (@.050 duration .201/210 Lobe center angle @ 112 degrees Lift is .400/.406) 1.89/1.59 cheater valves, 30degree keepers, HD valve springs. 3" exhaust pipe intake. 5-speed MT.
1966 Notchback (in storage slowly rotting away) 289 cid factory original. Begging to be restored.
pipe of only 1") and replaced it with a custom mandrel bent 3" stainless exhaust pipe. The engine was so restricted, it wouldn't even hold a steady idle - it idled like it was "breathing". I will be wraping the intake pipe with some aluminum and tar "roofing" material usually used to seal aluminum mobile home roofs. This is the beginning of the project, I intend to add a turbo package, and beef up the rear end with an 8.8 with 3.51 +/- gears. But that gets into the dream realm.
