it wont do that with the cold air intake kit will it?? and cud u give me link to where u got ur muffler.. so i can save money and just have the shop install it.
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Ýøüñg~Mèchãniç™
91 Mustang GT: BBK Cold Air Intake, BBK Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers, BBK Off Road H-Pipe, Flowmaster Cat-back, Msd Blaster Coil, Msd Dist. cap, Msd Wires, Pro 5.0 Shifter, A/C and Smog Delete, Steeda Adjustable Clutch cable, quadrant and firewall adjuster, summit rotors.
it wont do that with the cold air intake kit will it?? and cud u give me link to where u got ur muffler.. so i can save money and just have the shop install it.
No I dont think it should do that on yours. Because I think the problem with mine must have been with the MAF or something.
are you looking to get a whole new exhaust? I got the flowmaster 40 Series. So if you want you can get the catback exhaust. Just ented your car's information like year make and model and engine.
Its gonna sound badass since your gonna take off your cat.
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1991 2.3L Mustang LX - Daily driver
Flowmaster Muffler Original 40 series, Rear Window Louvers, Black GT style taillights, Weld Draglites 15x7 Front, 15x8 Rear.
ya.. i need a whole new exaust.. how much was yours.. shud i buy a muffler and take it to a shop and have them put the new exuast in with the muffler.. or shud i just do all of it at a shop.. like buy the muffler there and everything..
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Ýøüñg~Mèchãniç™
91 Mustang GT: BBK Cold Air Intake, BBK Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers, BBK Off Road H-Pipe, Flowmaster Cat-back, Msd Blaster Coil, Msd Dist. cap, Msd Wires, Pro 5.0 Shifter, A/C and Smog Delete, Steeda Adjustable Clutch cable, quadrant and firewall adjuster, summit rotors.
which flowmaster 40 did you get..? the super 40 looks good, will it make it sound better with a new 2.25 inch exaust system.. and can i take off the catalic converter?
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Ýøüñg~Mèchãniç™
91 Mustang GT: BBK Cold Air Intake, BBK Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers, BBK Off Road H-Pipe, Flowmaster Cat-back, Msd Blaster Coil, Msd Dist. cap, Msd Wires, Pro 5.0 Shifter, A/C and Smog Delete, Steeda Adjustable Clutch cable, quadrant and firewall adjuster, summit rotors.
yeah i would get the super 40, or a cherry bomb glass pack, if you knw how to weld good enough then you my as well do it your self and save the money.
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1990 white hatchback 5spd CAI, FlowMaster exhaust, rear seat delete kit, ac delete, radio delete..... Soon to come weld draglites, and 4.10 gears
member of AAS (AUSTIN AREA STANGS)
founder of Blue Oval Mustangs
yes ofcourse most shops sell mufflers there actually
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1990 white hatchback 5spd CAI, FlowMaster exhaust, rear seat delete kit, ac delete, radio delete..... Soon to come weld draglites, and 4.10 gears
member of AAS (AUSTIN AREA STANGS)
founder of Blue Oval Mustangs
yeah probly so, get a cherry bomb glasspack they are only like 20 bucks
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1990 white hatchback 5spd CAI, FlowMaster exhaust, rear seat delete kit, ac delete, radio delete..... Soon to come weld draglites, and 4.10 gears
member of AAS (AUSTIN AREA STANGS)
founder of Blue Oval Mustangs
I know lol. I think it was to make it sound less noisy but It sounds the same to me. I had to remove mine though and put it back on.. because I was having high rpms when i turned on my car and then it would die.
I still dont know why it did that and no one on this site could help me. So im just gonna wait until I start school.
MUSTANG~ The reason your car is idling erratically is because of the MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR located inline on your intake. This meters the amount and density of the air coming into the engine. the sensor is calibrated for a 1" tube of air going into the engine (the size of the restrictor baffle you removed. When you replaced it with your cold air intake, the engine is now getting 3" of air volume, sending the MAF out of range. The computer is trying to deal with the increased volume of air. By increasing the RPM's, it passes the air through, only to find out it gets starved and the RPM's drop and the cycle starts over until the computer smooths the intake out for the engine. You may need to replace the MAF as well to get the cold air intake to work, or see if someone else has found a work around for the MAF. My 88 has a speed denisty motor which does not take a MAF. I was able to bend a 3" piece of exhaust pipe from the TB to the stock air cleaner box. Then I removed the box and put an APC filter on it for cheap. Not true cold air since it takes in the heated engine compartment air, but it works
As for the reason for the restrictor, its there to speed up the airflow (venturi effect) and to smooth out the pressure waves. If you look down one side, you will see the surface looks like a cheeze grater. This "scrapes" the incoming air and "baffles" the pressure waves (hence the big muffler like bulge you see on the outside) to smooth out the incoming air to make it more consistent going into the engine. Its basically a sonic turbo muffler for the intake side of the engine.
Troubleshoot this - unplug the MAF and start the motor. See if the idle smooths out. You may be able to drive it that way, but do not be surprised if the check engine light comes on, or the car is a little sluggish. Like I said, this is only troubleshooting, and it may require replacing the MAF with an aftermarket, or recalibrating your current one if it can be.
Hope this helps.
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1988 LX 2.3NA Cammed (@.050 duration .201/210 Lobe center angle @ 112 degrees Lift is .400/.406) 1.89/1.59 cheater valves, 30degree keepers, HD valve springs. 3" exhaust pipe intake. 5-speed MT.
1966 Notchback (in storage slowly rotting away) 289 cid factory original. Begging to be restored.
MUSTANG~ The reason your car is idling erratically is because of the MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR located inline on your intake. This meters the amount and density of the air coming into the engine. the sensor is calibrated for a 1" tube of air going into the engine (the size of the restrictor baffle you removed. When you replaced it with your cold air intake, the engine is now getting 3" of air volume, sending the MAF out of range. The computer is trying to deal with the increased volume of air. By increasing the RPM's, it passes the air through, only to find out it gets starved and the RPM's drop and the cycle starts over until the computer smooths the intake out for the engine. You may need to replace the MAF as well to get the cold air intake to work, or see if someone else has found a work around for the MAF. My 88 has a speed denisty motor which does not take a MAF. I was able to bend a 3" piece of exhaust pipe from the TB to the stock air cleaner box. Then I removed the box and put an APC filter on it for cheap. Not true cold air since it takes in the heated engine compartment air, but it works
As for the reason for the restrictor, its there to speed up the airflow (venturi effect) and to smooth out the pressure waves. If you look down one side, you will see the surface looks like a cheeze grater. This "scrapes" the incoming air and "baffles" the pressure waves (hence the big muffler like bulge you see on the outside) to smooth out the incoming air to make it more consistent going into the engine. Its basically a sonic turbo muffler for the intake side of the engine.
Troubleshoot this - unplug the MAF and start the motor. See if the idle smooths out. You may be able to drive it that way, but do not be surprised if the check engine light comes on, or the car is a little sluggish. Like I said, this is only troubleshooting, and it may require replacing the MAF with an aftermarket, or recalibrating your current one if it can be.
Hope this helps.
Yeah thanks, I was thinking it was the MAF as well. The first couple of days though when I added the 3 inch diameter intake, it did the same thing went up to nearly 2000 rpm then came back down to 1100 and then 900. But then after a week or so it started to go up to 2000 and then come down and would die on me. Thanks for the help again, I needed to see if someone else thought what I thought.
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1991 2.3L Mustang LX - Daily driver
Flowmaster Muffler Original 40 series, Rear Window Louvers, Black GT style taillights, Weld Draglites 15x7 Front, 15x8 Rear.
I got a question a little off topic - I see on your profile and on others where you are like 2.3L member, 5.0member, etc. How do you get those? I have searched, but do not know where to go to become one.
thanks, and good luck with the MAF issue.
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1988 LX 2.3NA Cammed (@.050 duration .201/210 Lobe center angle @ 112 degrees Lift is .400/.406) 1.89/1.59 cheater valves, 30degree keepers, HD valve springs. 3" exhaust pipe intake. 5-speed MT.
1966 Notchback (in storage slowly rotting away) 289 cid factory original. Begging to be restored.
The ECM was relying on default values and the last 50 best "starts" stored in its memory to come up with a good combination for the added air. Once those were written over in the ECM by the starts you had, it no longer had anything to go on and the default "hard coded" values were not calculating a result the engine could run with, hence it dies.
When you replace it, the car will rediscover the default values and start running again, although maybe a little poorly at first. The more you drive it, the ECM will "relearn" what is a good combination and it should smooth back out after driving a while.
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1988 LX 2.3NA Cammed (@.050 duration .201/210 Lobe center angle @ 112 degrees Lift is .400/.406) 1.89/1.59 cheater valves, 30degree keepers, HD valve springs. 3" exhaust pipe intake. 5-speed MT.
1966 Notchback (in storage slowly rotting away) 289 cid factory original. Begging to be restored.
The ECM was relying on default values and the last 50 best "starts" stored in its memory to come up with a good combination for the added air. Once those were written over in the ECM by the starts you had, it no longer had anything to go on and the default "hard coded" values were not calculating a result the engine could run with, hence it dies.
When you replace it, the car will rediscover the default values and start running again, although maybe a little poorly at first. The more you drive it, the ECM will "relearn" what is a good combination and it should smooth back out after driving a while.
Ok so what are you saying I should do? If I add the 3 in intake pipe again and keep it on so it can "relearn" what the good combination is, it will run smooth after?
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1991 2.3L Mustang LX - Daily driver
Flowmaster Muffler Original 40 series, Rear Window Louvers, Black GT style taillights, Weld Draglites 15x7 Front, 15x8 Rear.
