[drumvudu]

I need someone to explain this procedure to me. Pictures would be awesome but I can live without them. I have read the procedure in a shop manual and it just doesn't explain it properly unless you already know the names of all of the internal parts. If I already knew all of that, I wouldn't need the help. Thank allot. drum

[coolwaterblvd]

Block it off with a plate in between, pull out the check engine bulb if it goes off, and forget about it.

[drumvudu]

Originally Posted by coolwaterblvd

Block it off with a plate in between, pull out the check engine bulb if it goes off, and forget about it.

I live in Colorado and that wouldn't make it past an environmental tester on his first day. I just want to try to clean it before i go buy a brand new one.

[coolwaterblvd]

Take out the plate before smog test.

[drumvudu]

Originally Posted by coolwaterblvd

Take out the plate before smog test.

Well that still won't clean it and when i take it out I'll be right back where i am now. The point is... I want to FIX it, NOT RIG IT.

[74stang2togo]

Take the EGR valve off, and use either a bristle brush or a folded-over pipe cleaner along with some throttle body cleaner (Valvoline Synpower Throttlebody and Carb cleaner works best) and clean all of the carbon out of the passages you can see.

Make sure you don't kink, bend, or twist the long steel tube running down to your exhaust manifold in the process of removing the EGR valve, it'll keep it from functioning properly. Also, if this tube is clogged, remove it completely and use carb cleaner and a long, bristled, flexible brush to clean it out, and fix whatever is causing it to run rich enough to clog that tube, because it usually doesn't get clogged.

[evintho]

First, spray PB Blaster liberally on the big nut that connects the EGR tube to the EGR valve. Let it sit for a minute, then tap all around the nut with a ball peen hammer. Use the appropriate size wrench and break it loose. It can be a bear. Spray BrakeKleen into the tube and clean out any carbon with a stiff bristle brush.

Remove the 2 bolts that hold the EGR valve to the intake manifold. Remove the EGR and scrape the old gasket from the mounting flange. Clean the gasket flange. Spray BrakeKleen into the 2 holes and scrape all the carbon buildup out using small screwdrivers, picks, whatever will work. Here's an old EGR valve......................................
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../EGR2holes.jpg

Flip the EGR over and do the same procedure on the hole where the tube connects.......................................
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...s/EGR1hole.jpg

Next, scrape out the carbon buildup in the hole in the intake manifold. Scrape towards you so as to not get any carbon crap down the manifold. Try holding a vacuum against the hole as you scrape. That'll suck most of the crap out...................................
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...os/EGRhole.jpg

Finally, buy a new EGR gasket and reinstall the EGR. Don't use any gasket adhesive. Smear some anti-seize compound on the big nut and reinstall the EGR tube. The anti-seize will make it easier to remove next time. Don't forget to reinstall the vacuum line on the top. Start the car and rev it to 2000 rpms or so, hold it there and remove the vacuum line from the EGR. You should be able to see the orange diaphram close. That'll tell you the EGR is working properly.

It's a pretty simply procedure, really. Good luck!

[drumvudu]

WOW, Thank both of you guys VERY MUCH. This is EXACTLY what I was looking for. I really appreciate it. That's enough info that it should be put in the tech how-to section. One more question if i could, do I understand it properly that the EGR valve doesn't get vacuum until the motor reaches warm up and not at an idle at all?

[evintho]

The EGR valve is closed at idle, during warm-up and at wide open throttle (WOT). Yeah, I forgot to tell you, the motor needs to be warm before the EGR will work.

The computer actuates the EGR when the following input signals are achieved from the sensors:
1) Warm engine signal from the ECT
2) Part throttle signal from the TPS
3) Part-load signal from the MAP
4) Time since start, from the timer in the PCM

Hope this helps.

[coolwaterblvd]

That is also why u dont need to go under a 180 degree stat so the computer will not think it is never warming up. Also I have read that the 160 can damage your motor because of the different metals in the engine need to be at 180 or better for proper clearance of internal parts, ESP on the 4.6.