1992 2.3 timing belt - Ford Mustang Forum

LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-04-2007 Thread Starter
2.3L Member
Thunder412's Avatar
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Overland Park
Posts: 1
1992 2.3 timing belt

Can someone tell me where I could get a picture of where the timing marks should be when replacing the timing belt? Or any tips that I could use while doing this. Thanks

Thunder412 is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-04-2007
PONY Member
2.3L Member
sleeper_inc's Avatar
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Regina Beach
Posts: 584
Send a message via MSN to sleeper_inc

Installing the new belt:

Wiggle your belt back onto the pulleys. It may take some work to get it around the crank timing belt pulley.
2. Once the belt is routed properly, remove all the tension from the DRIVER'S SIDE of the belt. You want to get it as tight as possible on that side. Make sure the belt teeth are lined up with the cam and crank pulley teeth and all the slack is removed. You may have to VERY carefully move the cam back a little bit to get the belt on, then move it back again to tighten it all the way up. The tension on the other side doesn't matter because the tensioner will take care of it when it's released.
3. Check to make sure all marks you put on the pulleys are still positioned "straight up".
4. Release the tensioner hold down bolt slightly and the tensioner will spring back into place.
5. Put the breaker bar back under the tensioner and hold enough pressure on it so there is approximately 1/2" of slack in the belt on the driver's side.
6. Once the correct slack is obtained tighten the hold down bolt.
7. At this point the hard work is complete and you can now install everything in the reverse order of how you removed it. Once that is complete, check to make sure everything is correct and then start the car.
8. Now you can proceed to the Timing Adjustment below to set the timing to factory specs.

Timing Adjustment
Follow these steps after completing timing belt install above or to set timing to factory specs.

Make sure you have the timing belt cover installed (or at least the lower part around the crankshaft pulley)
2. Put timing light connector on #1 spark plug wire (nearest the front of the car).
3. Locate distributor hold down bolt and use a 12+" long 3/8" extension and ratchet to loosen bolt. You only need to turn it a small amount...just enough to release the tension.
4. Unplug spout connector (small gray plug located within 6" of ignition module that's bolted to the side of the distributor, the plug is located within the ignition harness).
5. Make sure the timing light wires are out of the way of the engine pulleys.
6. Start car.
7. Point timing light towards the timing marks near the crankshaft pulley on the timing cover.
8. Locate the 10* BTDC mark on the cover (factory setting) and turn the distributor slightly until the "notch" in the pulley lines up with the desired timing (10*BTDC factory...you may find your engine likes up to 18*BTDC for best performance. This part is up to you, best thing to do is turn it up, run it, turn it up some more and run it again until you are satisfied with it. If it detonates under boost, turn back the timing 2*.)
9. Once the desired timing marks are lined up tighten the distributor hold down bolt.
10. Recheck timing to make sure the distributor didn't move when tightening it down.
11. Plug in Spout Connector and check timing, it should be advanced to 25+* now and move with rpms.
12. Shut off engine, remove tools, close hood, and enjoy your new found power.

Timing Adjustment/Reset Without Timing Cover
Follow these steps if you don't have a timing belt cover and have thrown the timing belt.

1. Turn over the auxiliary pulley if you can't see the timing mark that is on it. Sometimes the aux pulley is reversed so that you can't see the timing mark that is on it. The aux pulley is the same part as the cam pulley but everyone that I have seen is turned over so that you can't see the timing mark.
2. Turn the crank so that the crank bolt, the TDC mark, the aux pulley bolt and the auxiliary pulley timing mark form a straight line. The crank and aux pulley timing mark's will not be next to each other but both will be pointed in a straight line with the crank and auxiliary bolts towards the driver's fender.
3. If you can't or haven't turned over the auxiliary pulley just check to see that the rotor button is pointing to the Four O'clock position
4. Check the distributor. The rotor should be at about the 4 o'clock position, if not move it now. The crank and auxillary pulley and distributor are now aligned.
5. Now put a straightedge or piece of wire in a straight line between the cam pulley bolt and the auxillary pulley bolt.
6. Turn the cam until it's timing mark is in line with this straight line.
7. You're done. If you are stuck somewhere this method will set the timing to Zero Degrees BTDC. This is an emergency method only. It will get you home however. Once you get home, adjust timing to 10* BTDC as shown above.

Thanks to stinger

The sad thing is, with 15 PSI, straight back exhaust, and a bobs log, it still feels slow...

Maybe 20PSI, new computer, new 3" VAM, and some porting will make it faster

For pictures of my build-up on "No Hands" PM me
sleeper_inc is offline  
post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-11-2009
TazDaMaster's Avatar
Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 19
Send a message via Yahoo to TazDaMaster
Angry 2.3 timing settings

These settings don't work. I have tried several settings to get my 2.3l 4-plug motor back to factory settings and none work. I can get the 89 mustang running but it doesn't have the power I had before I rebuilt the top half of the motor. The motor will not start with the distribator at the 4 o-clock setting the only way I can get it to run is to point at the #1 plug and the crank set at TDC mark and the cam pointing at the three ribbed area on the back cover but it eats up gas and doesn't run right plus doesn't have the power it had before I did all this work. The car would spin the tires off before I redone the top half of the motor
TazDaMaster is offline  
post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-11-2009
PONY Member
2.3L Member
evintho's Avatar
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Santa Rosa
Posts: 552

You're probably off a tooth. And, AFAIK '89's didn't come with 4-plug heads. Do you have a later motor transplanted in there?

Here's a write-up I did when I changed the belt on my '86 TC.
Timing belt install

'89 LX ragtop with turbo'd TC motor - Thunderstang!
'86 Turbo Coupe (daily driver)
'88 Turbo Coupe (parts car)
evintho is offline  
Sponsored Links
Closed Thread

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:


Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome