[CruznSVO85.5]

Hi all,

I'm a new member who is having a fuel issue with my 1985.5 SVO.
I'm driving along with no problem and all of a sudden without warning, the engine will sputter as if no fuel is getting to the engine. I'd downshift and pump the accelarator and the car will work fine again. This problem just started and I'm guessing that the fuel pump is starting to go bad.

However before replacing the fuel pump, should I consider other less expensive possibilities?

Also, how difficult is it to replace the fuel pump on car?

I plan on replacing the fuel filter(s) before the fuel pump.

Your feedback is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[coolwaterblvd]

The fuel filter and run a bottle of lucus fuel injector cleaner. But once the pump starts giving u problems it needs to be changed. Also pull of the intake tube and make sure the turbo is still spinning and does not have very much side to side play. With a turbo car there are so many other factors to consider along with injector condition a good place to send your tired injectors is Accurate Injector Service - Fuel Injector Cleaning - Fuel Injector Balancing

[NavySVO]

You need to hook up a viewable fuel pressure gae to see if this really is your problem.
Have you checked your TPS?
To set the TPS you will need the following tools.
1. Small Phillips screwdriver
2. Digital Voltmeter
3. Analog Voltmeter

The base idle needs to be set properly prior to setting the TPS. see below for instructions on setting base idle

The next thing to do is hook up the analog meter to the green and Black wires. With the key on open and close the throttle body slowly, you should see the needle move in a smooth arc without jumping around. If the needle jumps there is a dead spot in the TPS and it will need to be replaced.

The next step is to set the TPS to the proper voltage with the key in the on position. Using your digital meter, connect to the same wires as you did in the above. The TPS voltage should be as close to .90V with the TB in the closed position. At full open (WOT) should be around 4.5V to 4.75 V. If the TPS is not within the above settings, loosen the 2 phillips head screws and rotate the TPS until you get to .90V at closed throttle. Tighten the screws, and recheck your settings again.



To set your base idle you will need to have the car running, at operating temperature, all accessories off.

The next step is to disconnect the IAC (Idle Air Controller). The engine speed should slow to around 750 or it may stall. The proper setting is listed on the emissions decal on the cover of the coil.

With the IAC still disconnected set the idle speed using the adjustment screw on the front of the TB. Operate the throttle a few times to make sure that it is set properly.

Turn off the engine and reconnect the IAC and start the car. After a few minutes the idle should set itself around 950 to 1025 RPM. After doing this procedure, it may be necessary to reset the TPS.

Also, run KOER codes.

[CruznSVO85.5]

Thanks for the recommendations. I will try them hopefully by this weekend.
Since my posting, here's what I've done.
1. Replaced the fuel filter - problem is still occuring.
2. Ran code check and when it was time to run KOER, engine did not want to start. KOEO checked out okay with exception of low voltage. Probably due battery was starting to lose it charge.
3. Placed fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail. Pressure read 40psi when KOEO but immediately started losing pressure once fuel pump shutoff after priming.
4. Replaced fuel pressure regulator and pressure held steady at 38psi on KOEO and 30psi on KOER. (30psi sound too low?) Recommendations on these cars I believe are 35psi to approx 50psi.
5. Ran engine for an hour and stalled once but started up immediately.
I'm still going to replace the fuel pump since it is probably been awhile since it was replaced.
Do you have a fuel pump that you can recommend?
What lph/gph should I use on a stock svo but looking to modify a few things to increase HP?
Anyone know what the stock SVO's lph/gph that originally came with the car?
Thanks

[86Beast]

Sounds like the problem im having. My SVO has a hard start to begin with. It will run but once im on the freeway If i press the clutch and fall into netural the engine turns off . Im thinking its the fuel pump but im gonna check out other stuff. Sorry i think standard full pump LPH for SVo is about 60... not sure though you can get a 255lph ...thats the one i was thinking about replacing mine with good luck.

[CruznSVO85.5]

Any preferrence which brand of fuel pump?

Also, if I opt for the 255lph, do I need to change/upgrade anything in the fuel system such as stock fuel pressure regulator and/or anything else?

[86Beast]

Ok, the stock one runs at about 90 lph. I know edebrock makes one. Im planning to get this one i found on ebay made by walbro for about 90$. It would be a bad idea to get a after market fuel pressure regulator. But honestly i dont know but would make a good combo.

[CruznSVO85.5]

Thanks Beast. I just want to make sure when I opt to go with a 255 lph or maybe 190 lph (Walbro brand) that there's nothing else I need to change with the existing stock setup. I don't want to have to change anything especially the new fuel pressure regulator I just put in.

[86Beast]

I made a typo...it wouldnt be a bad idea to get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.. you can get a good one at summit for around 70$ i think.

[CruznSVO85.5]

Hi all,
It's been a while but I wanted to give you all an update.

It seems the problem with the SVO was been resolved (I hope) after a few parts replacements.

My local mechanic determined it turned out to be two things related to ignition (ignition module and distributor). The two parts were replaced a few weeks ago and have not had the symptom of stalling.
Now, on to the issue of unusual high idle after the car has been running for a while. Going to start with Idle Air Control Valve.

Thanks for everyone's help.

[84SVOrick]

how much was the distributer and what kind and where did you get it from?? my car has some of the syptums

[CruznSVO85.5]

Hi,
I purchased it from Auto Zone. It's a Ford distributor assembly but remanufactured by A1 Cordone. Without the ignition control module, it's about $70 plus a core charge of $30. With the module, it's $102 plus core. Didn't want to spend more than what's necessary.

I hope it wasn't a bad decision but I kept my original distributor hoping to one day get it rebuilt so that I put it back and keep the engine parts as close to original as possible.

I see you are local to my area. :-)

[84SVOrick]

I had alredy changed the module when i did the tune up maybe i need the distributer.

[NavySVO]

There is nothing to the distrubutor that you can't do yourself. Just change out the PIP (hall effect sensor) and be done with it.

[CruznSVO85.5]

Thanks Navy, I appreciate the info.

Can you or anyone reading the forum help me out with another issue?

Here the problem:
When I start the car, it idles between 950 to 1000 rpm. Once I've been on the road for 10 - 15 minutes and take my foot off the accelerator to stop, the car idles in the neighborhood of 1700 rpm and will not drop to the normal idle speed. This seem to happen more often after exiting the freeway. Only way to drop idle speed down is to shut engine off.

Attempted to remedy the problem by:
1. Verified IAC valve moved when the key was moved to the on position and it does.
2. Replaced the IAC with another non-Motorcraft part (don't think they make them any longer) anyhow. Started the car up. Idle speed was sparadic and eventually settled down to normal (950 rpm) after several minutes.
Took the car for a test drive.
Idle on city driving was okay but did notice the engine would rev momentarily before normal idle.

Went on the freeway and boast it up a few times. Exited and idle speed was worse. It idle at 2000 rpm and climbing.

I placed the old IAC valve and I'm back to square 1.

I've read and heard that perhaps it could be the TPS or my biggest fear, the computer.

Thanks for any input you all can give.

Julio