[soccerman58]

Hi
The only way I can see to drain this thing is to take the pan off. That might not be the worst idea because I'm sure it's full of slime and gunk that I could clean out at the same time.
I wonder why they don't have a drain like the engine oil sump?
Thanks

[speedytang]

Must drop the fluid pan. The reason the manufacture never put a drain plug is because people would drain it and never change the filter inside.

[soccerman58]

More poor reasoning from Ford. What's to stop anyone from changing their motor oil and not changing the filter?
I suspect this 17-year-old motor has seen its best days, and I was just thinking about drilling a hole in it and then bunging it up with some of that metal putty or even a self-threading bolt.
However, I believe the clutch is slipping a little and perhaps draining off the gallon or so of excess fluid and replacing the filter and throwing in some Klutch Majik or whatever they have on the shelf might get a few extra miles out of it.
Unless you know of a way to adjust the bands maybe? There are two square-headed bolts on the outside of the case that look like a candidate for twiddling, but how much and shich way is the question.
Phil

[speedytang]

I don't know of any American manufacture that puts a drain plug at least not in the last 30 years. You can get the drain plug kit for $8 and install when you get the pan off. If the fluid is brown on the stick I would just leave it alone it is toast anyways.

[davido30093]

If you are going to change the filter, you have to pull the pan anyway. While you have it off, install a drain plug for next time. If the clutches are slipping, there is no adjustment that will help. The bands are designed to be adjusted at re-build only, not after it is in use. There are a few thing that you can do that might help. Drop the pan and replace the filter. If the torque converter has a drain plug, drain it too, then refill with fresh fluid. Check the vacuum modulator valve and make sure that it is connected to the vacuum line. Also check the line to be sure that it is dry and does not contain any fluid. If it has fluid in it, the modulator valve is bad and must be replaced. There is one other thing to check. At the rear of the motor near the firewall, there is a small plastic device attached inline with the vacuum line going to the vacuum manifold (T). It has a habit of falling down against the EGR pipe and a hole gets burned in it. If that happens, the transmission will slip and act sort of crazy with irregular shifts. Be sure that the vacuum line is good all the way to the modulator valve and that there is vacuum on it. If non of that helps, then it is re-build time.

[soccerman58]

Hi
Good stuff, thanks.
Can you tell me how to expose the torque converter please? I will check to see if it can be drained. If the drain hole is not visible, can I turn the converter with my fingers to get at it?
I know there are two clutch types...is there one that has torque converter drain and one not?
I am interested in the vacuum modulator and that line. Could you give me a bit more information on how to track that line please...where is the modulator valve? It would probably be easier to find that then trace a line coming out of it looking for burn holes. Where does the other end go...does it actually go to the vacuum manifold, or does it just go to the plastic piece you were telling me about.
I really appreciate it
Phil
Oh, if I drain the converter, will it refill automatically when I pour the new fluid in, or do I have to somehow fill it separately (can't see how...)

[speedytang]

No drain on the torque converter. No vacuum modulator either it uses a shift cable on the throttle body to control passing gear and other functions.

[soccerman58]

Speedy, not wishing to cast doubt on your experience and wisdom, but if I can't drain the torque converter, doesn't that mean I am inmmediately going to have it pump a quart of dirty fluid into my nice new clean transmission fluid and filter? It says this in the manual:
A pump, which is driven by the converter hub at engine speed, keeps the torque converter full of transmission fluid at all times. Fluid flows continuously through the unit to provide cooling. I agree that could be read that the coverter is a closed system that is just topped up with new fluid now and again, but it would seem also to read that like a radiator it flows in through the intake, flows through the converter, then goes back into the general fluid reservoir to be cooled by flowing through the fluid cooler with the rest of it
I'm also wondering if there are some differences between this lowly old 2.3l and your 5L monsta, because although it does, as you say, make use of a shift cable on the throttle body, it seems it is part one of a two-part system. Here's what the manual says:
Governor pressure rises with an increase in vehicle speed, and modulator pressure rises as the throttle is opened wider. By responding to these two pressures, the shift valves cause the upshift points to be delayed with increased throttle opening to make the best use of the engine's power output.
Most transmissions also make use of an auxiliary circuit for downshifting. This circuit may be actuated by the throttle linkage the vacuum line which actuates the modulator, by a cable or by a solenoid. It applies pressure to a special downshift surface on the shift valve or valves.
The transmission modulator also governs the line pressure, used to actuate the servos. In this way, the clutches and bands will be actuated with a force matching the torque output of the engine.
The thing is, I'm not sure what the transmission modulator looks like. Is it inside or ouside the transmission housing? On which side of the car? What is it attached to? Is there just one pipe coming off it? Is it a metal pipe (brake-pipe style) or a rubber pipe?
Thanks so much for your time guys
Phil

[74stang2togo]

Originally Posted by speedytang

No drain on the torque converter. No vacuum modulator either it uses a shift cable on the throttle body to control passing gear and other functions.

A4LD transmissions on the 2.3L cars use vacuum modulators.

The only ways to get the old fluid out of the converter are:

1) remove the transmission so that the converter can be removed

2) have the transmission professionally flushed and filled at a service facility with the right equipment.

and in all honesty, neither will get 100% of the fluid out of the converter, but this is about as close as you will get, if you're going to do a fluid change because your transmission is already having problems, DON'T, you will only make things worse; by the time your transmission is already acting up, the dirt, grit, and sludge in the fluid is usually the only thing keeping friction between the proper parts internally, putting fresh fluid in there will only make it slip more or make it shift worse, if you're already having problems you've got three basic choices:

1. Get the transmission fixed (at a good shop you're looking at over $1000 if it needs a rebuild, and you'll have to decide just HOW much you like the car...)

2. Use an additive (no additive is a permanent fix, and they usually only cause more damage long term, that said, when the transmission in my old Chevy bit the dust 3 years ago, a bottle of Lucas Transmission Fix stopped the slippage and got 3rd gear working for 10,000 miles for me (over a year of driving) when it started acting up again a 2nd bottle got me another 4,500 miles before it finally blew up for good (and I mean for GOOD! lol, the only things my transmission guy reused were my pan and housing!!!!) $850 (I did the removal, flushed the lines and cooler, and re-installed it myself, that $850 was JUST the build) later I have a high-performance TH350 in that baby... trust me, I take REAL good care of this one! I also used Lucas Transmission Fix with results that weren't as good but better than expected with a torn-up A4LD automatic in a 1988 Mustang LX... got two gears and reverse working (when only 1st was working before) full time, and overdrive working if I tricked it into shifting into it (3rd never worked again, lol)

3. Get rid of the car (with an older low-dollar-value car with a worn automatic transmission this is usually the best choice, but sometimes not the most feasible, again, see options 1 & 2...)

[soccerman58]

Hmmmm... too late, I dropped the pan and cleaned it out. Not too much crap in there, so maybe it was cared for.
I don't know what sort of transmission this is, and guys have said that you can't adjust the bands tension, but I have two square adjusting bolts held by locking nuts on the driver side of mine, one either side of the the shift mechanism, and if they aren't for adjusting the bands, then I don't know what else they could possibly be for. Someone suggested I have a C4, but I ofund s picture of some guys rebuilding a C4 out of a 70 Bronco
0508cct Trans 49 Z Photo

and mine looks nothing like this. You can see the band adjusters on the passenger side in this picture. Whatever I have, it ain't one of these!
Leter
Phil