Guys, I have a '90 LX with a recently installed 15:1 ps rack. Is there a steering shaft for a Mercury,Lincoln,Crown Vic that would let me get rid of the rag joint? I know that Flaming River sells them...BUT I'm on a really tight budget and hope that I could get one from a parts yard.
I used the search feature and didn't see anything that covers what I'm asking.
If one of the Gurus could help me with this I would really appreciate it.
you could always have a machine shop cut you a metal disc to put in there, or weld the shaft solid, not sure why you'd want to eliminate the rag joint? It helps to cushion the excess vibrations in the steering column, especially on the 2.3L cars.
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1976 Ford Mustang II Ghia: 302 with a 600cfm Edelbrock carb, Edelbrock Performer 289 intake, Dynomax Blackjack headers, 2.5" exhaust with Flowmaster Super 44s. RJS 11-gallon fuel cell, C4 tranny, chrome 16" pony wheels, fuzzy dice, brown vinyl half-top, and painted in the tackiest color ever (harvest gold, that's why I call it "The Goldenrod").
Also have a 2003 Dodge Ram (lightly modded daily driver/tow rig/office/dining room/home away from home/workshop... I call it "The Big Blue Dawg".)
you could always have a machine shop cut you a metal disc to put in there, or weld the shaft solid, not sure why you'd want to eliminate the rag joint? It helps to cushion the excess vibrations in the steering column, especially on the 2.3L cars.
well mines broken and i cant find a new one that isnt billet anywhere!!! So id get rid of mine if the kit wasnt just outta my reach. the metal disc is agood idea tho... i think ill look into that.
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As you may have guessed- I'm a young gun with dreams of pimpin' my baby 2.3n/a into a fire-breathin Shadow Runner.
so far:
1987 hatchback mustang
2.3L, replaced to a '89
Air silencer removed
t-5 all the way
1400 watt sound system w/ twin 12" chrome subs
-The shadow runner was a legendary chinese horse that could outrun its own shadow[/size]
Advance Auto Parts carries the rag joint in the Help! section of the store, it's not listed in their computer or anything, but it's there, just look for the one that lists "FORD" as it's application on the front of the package. I put one in my '88 LX 2.3 car when I had the engine out, it's a PITA that way, probably worse witht the engine in! lol
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1976 Ford Mustang II Ghia: 302 with a 600cfm Edelbrock carb, Edelbrock Performer 289 intake, Dynomax Blackjack headers, 2.5" exhaust with Flowmaster Super 44s. RJS 11-gallon fuel cell, C4 tranny, chrome 16" pony wheels, fuzzy dice, brown vinyl half-top, and painted in the tackiest color ever (harvest gold, that's why I call it "The Goldenrod").
Also have a 2003 Dodge Ram (lightly modded daily driver/tow rig/office/dining room/home away from home/workshop... I call it "The Big Blue Dawg".)
yea they didnt have it in the computer... unfortunately i didnt look at help, but i found a good old one from a big old car in a junk yard and put it in.
but pootitang im tellin ya the car feels good like this, im thinking about getting the eliminator, but to be honest the rag joint really makes it easy to drive.
__________________
As you may have guessed- I'm a young gun with dreams of pimpin' my baby 2.3n/a into a fire-breathin Shadow Runner.
so far:
1987 hatchback mustang
2.3L, replaced to a '89
Air silencer removed
t-5 all the way
1400 watt sound system w/ twin 12" chrome subs
-The shadow runner was a legendary chinese horse that could outrun its own shadow[/size]
Yan-Jin,74stang2togo thanks for the feed back.
Sorry I took so long in getting back to you, my dad has been hospitalized and ALL my time is spent there.
Yes replacing the rag joint with the engine in was a major pain in the a$$....my arms just don't have that extra joint to work on it from the top side. I don't see how the 5Os do it.
Guys even with less than 6k on the rag joint theres some slop in the wheel. Yeah,yeah....whine snivel,whine.
Yan-Jin,74stang2togo thanks for the feed back.
Sorry I took so long in getting back to you, my dad has been hospitalized and ALL my time is spent there.
Yes replacing the rag joint with the engine in was a major pain in the a$$....my arms just don't have that extra joint to work on it from the top side. I don't see how the 5Os do it.
Guys even with less than 6k on the rag joint theres some slop in the wheel. Yeah,yeah....whine snivel,whine.
well, just do what i did. go under it. i lifted the car bout 20" and layed under and got to work. and if u still have slop in the wheel, and the rag joint is still intact, u may have bigger issues
just be careful of the fuel lines, when i was changin my oil about a month ago i broke the damned fuel line...i know i know rookie bs, but im serious the plastic on these cars must be weak after...well for my car it was 20 years.
__________________
As you may have guessed- I'm a young gun with dreams of pimpin' my baby 2.3n/a into a fire-breathin Shadow Runner.
so far:
1987 hatchback mustang
2.3L, replaced to a '89
Air silencer removed
t-5 all the way
1400 watt sound system w/ twin 12" chrome subs
-The shadow runner was a legendary chinese horse that could outrun its own shadow[/size]
hey i am having a hard time replacing mine. i took off 2 bolts, but found 2 rivets adjacent to them...i am stucK. looks like this. rivets look to be holdingff disjk in place
A Dremel tool with a grinding bit in it and a few hours to spend making miniscule progress will do it. If you have access to a comressor and a small handheld air grinder you'll be better off.
I did mine while the engine was out, so I had enough room to use a big electric die grinder, had the heads ground off both in about 3 minutes and knocked them out with a punch and hammer; I replaced them with the bolts from the "HELP!" kit.
__________________
1976 Ford Mustang II Ghia: 302 with a 600cfm Edelbrock carb, Edelbrock Performer 289 intake, Dynomax Blackjack headers, 2.5" exhaust with Flowmaster Super 44s. RJS 11-gallon fuel cell, C4 tranny, chrome 16" pony wheels, fuzzy dice, brown vinyl half-top, and painted in the tackiest color ever (harvest gold, that's why I call it "The Goldenrod").
Also have a 2003 Dodge Ram (lightly modded daily driver/tow rig/office/dining room/home away from home/workshop... I call it "The Big Blue Dawg".)
if you still have play grab left and or right tie rod and if you have any movement (they should be solid and feel solid) they need to be replaced, everything is Mechanical except the ball joints at the end of the tie rods
Okay I really need this car back on the road, since I need my car for work. I dont have access to a garage or a lifter, plus I live on a gravel lot so any heavy work is a no go. And garages around here charge A LOT since they do not have any compettition.
The rag joint is completely busted, but I cant get it undone with the rivets, a prior suggestion explained that I lift the engine out of the car which is not an option for me
I believe I can unbolt the steering shaft from its connection to the steering column and replace the entire assembly, but before I spend 180 dollars at the ford dealership do any of you suggest me spending extra money to buy the flaming river assembly that doesnt require a rag joint anymore?
Have any of you removed the steering shaft from the car while its in the engine?
Okay I really need this car back on the road, since I need my car for work. I dont have access to a garage or a lifter, plus I live on a gravel lot so any heavy work is a no go. And garages around here charge A LOT since they do not have any compettition.
The rag joint is completely busted, but I cant get it undone with the rivets, a prior suggestion explained that I lift the engine out of the car which is not an option for me
I believe I can unbolt the steering shaft from its connection to the steering column and replace the entire assembly, but before I spend 180 dollars at the ford dealership do any of you suggest me spending extra money to buy the flaming river assembly that doesnt require a rag joint anymore?
Have any of you removed the steering shaft from the car while its in the engine?
bro, like i said before jack the car up. my rag joint was completely f***ed i went under unbolted the shaft to take the top part off (1 bolt).
i got a rag joint from the junkyard, took the rubber one off another car, or take the whole assembly from another mustang all together(3 bolts max).
if u do the first one like i did, use a drill, hammer, and angle grinder to cut and bang out the rivits. thread bolts in their place and there u have it. if u want pics i can take some of the completed rag joint.
eventually ill replace the whole thing with brand new but this one should last quite a while.
__________________
As you may have guessed- I'm a young gun with dreams of pimpin' my baby 2.3n/a into a fire-breathin Shadow Runner.
so far:
1987 hatchback mustang
2.3L, replaced to a '89
Air silencer removed
t-5 all the way
1400 watt sound system w/ twin 12" chrome subs
-The shadow runner was a legendary chinese horse that could outrun its own shadow[/size]
It is just a little piece of rubber (obviously shown in the picture) that boes between the steering wheel shaft and the rack and pinion shaft. It's where the shaft splits in 2 halves and allows the smaller shaft to angle down into rack.
(firewall)------------|(metal plate)|(rag joint)|(metal plate)
\
\
\
(rack and pinion)
Steve (hope this helped... I am not sure how else to explain it, lol)
Steering shaft -rag joint eliminator, 1990 Mustang LX 
