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Old 12-13-2007   #1 (permalink)
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Default 1992 LX Mustang door hinge pins and bushings

Anybody ever replace the door hinge pins and bushings in a 92 'stang? Looks like I either have to pull the fender to get to the bolts or drive the pins out with a hammer and drift punch? Also, what about the wiring harness, is there a quick disconnect so I can really detach the door from the car to replace the bushings?

HELP!
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Old 12-13-2007   #2 (permalink)
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I've heard of guys changing the pins and bushings one at the time, keeping the door and fender on. I don't see why you couldn't do it that way. There should be a connector for those wires, just trace them down but try to change the pins with the door on first, you may not have to worry about the wires.
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Old 12-14-2007   #3 (permalink)
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i've changed the pins both ways.the lower pin is a pain with the door on the car and you have to be sure the door doesn't get into the fender and scratch it.the second time i took the door off.i had my fender off already.with the door of you got way better access withlittle chance of damage to the door.the wires unplug inside the left kick panel,theres two gray plugs,undo them,doors off no hassle.
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Old 12-14-2007   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks guys! Wish I had known this when I had the front clip off repairing the radiator support....

Being a retired A&P Mechanic, I am used to tight spaces and will try to replace the pins and bushings without removing the door. My plan is to use a poly strap and the lift to hold the door up. Now, I hope I can drive the bushings out without bending the hinge tab. Little heat maybe???

I also noticed the detents that hold the door open are non-op....not to mention a broken door handle(I replace that last night), the electric locks dont work, and the remote controled mirror is broken and missing the glass and plastic border......and this is just on the passenger side..HA!

Must take pics of this repair..........
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Old 12-14-2007   #5 (permalink)
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Holding the door up with a strap will do the job just fine, just attach it to something secure. When we changed the pins on our Suburban we followed the same procedure. And those doors on the Suburbans are heavier than you think.
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Old 12-14-2007   #6 (permalink)
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I had to replace the passenger door pins/ bushings and it was a pain in the neck. I did use a dremel tool with a cut off wheel to cut the pin in half to pop the old pins out to get the new ones in.
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Old 12-14-2007   #7 (permalink)
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I had to replace the door pins/bushing on the passenger door on my 89 mustang lx. and it was a pain in the neck. I used my dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to cut the old pins in half to pop them out to get the new ones in. I left the fender on and use a car jack to hold the door up with.

P.S. I took pics while fixing the inside door handle step by step so when Im able to get them on the computer I'll post them on here. By the way for all of the 4 banger fans go to UTUBE and type in turbo 4 mustang in and you'll see some 2.3l efi turbo mustangs videos. that are cool.
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Old 12-17-2007   #8 (permalink)
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OK, here's the scoop.........this weekend I changed both doors, upper and lower hinge pins and bushings. I used my lift and a couple of polyester straps to hold the door up. The door must be detached from the car in order to change the bushings, but with the strap, I was able to do it without disconnecting the wiring harness which looks to be a pain to get to.

First, the flared end of the pins must be ground off to be able to drive the pin out. On the passenger side top hinge, and the drivers door bottom hinge, the hinge must be cut because the pin wont come out in one piece due to the curvature of the door. Seems Ford used the same hinges for the top on both sides and the bottom on both sides, the pins are inverted on the drivers side while facing down on the passengers side. If they had used bolts instead of welding the hinge halves to the door, it would be a snap instead of having to twist one's self up like a pretzel to get in there to grind the pins........ugh!

With the lift and the straps, it was a snap to swing the door out enough to remove and replace the bushings and leave the wiring harness connected. Not too bad a job..if you have a lift and a dremel tool. Two hours on the first side, and 30 min on the second side.

Now, I have two sweet shutting doors!

I took pics, but I cant find my USB cable (which my wife borrows all the time) to download the pics to my computer......UGH!
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Old 12-17-2007   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artistang View Post
On the passenger side top hinge, and the drivers door bottom hinge, the hinge must be cut because the pin wont come out in one piece due to the curvature of the door.
I tried to edit my post but alas.........aint happenin for me.

I meant to say the "pin" must be cut, not the hinge.......UGH!
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