I put 20,000 miles on my stock motor at 8 psi and loved every second of it before I had the opportunity to forge my motor. I have no doubt it would have kept going with no problems.
If you can be satisfied with 8 psi there is no reason to build the motor forst if you have a good, safe tune. Of course it may be better to forge first, just not necessary in this car.
Well im afraid of spending all this hard earned money.. and as Tact_out says "Being only able to use 1/3 of its potential".. or blowing it up.. i know 8psi will hold me over for a bit.. but once im comfortable.. i wanna be able to just buy a pully, n have it tuned for a higher psi.. where can i look for the parts/assemblies thatll handle this kind of stuff.. can anyone give me an idea on the things ill need to buy n how much it can cost for the kit and possibly install- if anyone has gone through it and remembers..(if its not too much of a hassle, id really appreciate it)..
thanks
Edit:im a noob.. sorry guys
__________________
2006 Mustang GT A/T Performance//JLT intake + Tillman 93 Street Race//Flowmasters//FRPP 3.73s//Powerslot Slotted Rotors//Hawk HPS////Pypes LT Headers//O/R X//FRPP Stingers Show//20in DD Black bullitts//Nitto NT555's//CDC Classic//Roush Scoop//Street Scene 1/4 Louvers//GT500 Rear Wing//FRPP Lowering Springs//Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber plates//8000k Heads/Fogs//Blacked out Sequentials
Question about all of this, if im only keeping it on 8psi.. should i buy the kit first.. and then save to build my motor?? Does anyone have a rough estimate on how much itll cost in engine upgrades to support 8-15psi w/o blowing it all up..?
You would really have to talk to a builder how much they charge for labor. You can buy a complete 5.0 short block for 3,300 though. I would say around 2,500 with every thing installed but dont quote me on this because I did alot of work to my car all at once and my price for labor is only 35-40 an hour.
If you went with the whipple, you want to go with the 10psi HO kit because of the intercooler. That way when you are ready with a built bottom end, you can go with a smaller pulley without spending more money on other supercharger upgrades.
Just because your at 10psi doesn't mean you have to go balls out on the dyno for 480rwhp. Like I said on the other board, you don't want 500rwhp with a stock block, because it will fail, just a matter of time. But 450rwhp is reasonable, and I have seen many cars survive at this level that get beat on pretty hard at the track.
Remember, the kit from Ford is advertised as 500 engine horsepower, which is basically 425RWHP.
If you still not comfortable with that, then I say STILL go with the HO kit, so you get the intercooler, but then go with a larger pulley if it makes you feel safer. The point is you want to buy the kit once.
__________________
Paul
Daily driven 2005 GT AUTO - Whipple @ 16psi - 577 rwhp 519 rwtq
Best 1/8th mile: 6.740 @ 101.56 mph with a 1.431 60' time
Best 1/4 mile: 10.672 @ 128.42 mph with a 1.480 60' time Special thanks to:
ST Motorsports, San Bernardino CA - built engine and tune
Larry's Transmission, Corona CA - built 5R55S
M&H - 325/45/17 racemaster drag radials
GI Joe - 8 rib pulley kit
Thump_rrr - billet tensioner
I put 20,000 miles on my stock motor at 8 psi and loved every second of it before I had the opportunity to forge my motor. I have no doubt it would have kept going with no problems.
If you can be satisfied with 8 psi there is no reason to build the motor forst if you have a good, safe tune. Of course it may be better to forge first, just not necessary in this car.
but about how much power where ya getting out of that thing exactly, cuz 8 psi honestly sounds just about right for me. I'm actually kinda torn what i should really do. I just got a college last year and money is kinda slim but i do have enough. I mean i love this car already, great power, and alot of fun to drive just at stock. I just thought maybe adding a lil more power could do me some good and have a lil more fun with it. This care isn't a daily driver also, i only drive it during the summer. I also dont really plan on drag racing it either much, sure maybe a few times for the fun of it but not alot. So i'll keep during research...
Well im afraid of spending all this hard earned money.. and as Tact_out says "Being only able to use 1/3 of its potential".. or blowing it up.. i know 8psi will hold me over for a bit.. but once im comfortable.. i wanna be able to just buy a pully, n have it tuned for a higher psi.. where can i look for the parts/assemblies thatll handle this kind of stuff.. can anyone give me an idea on the things ill need to buy n how much it can cost for the kit and possibly install- if anyone has gone through it and remembers..(if its not too much of a hassle, id really appreciate it)..
thanks
Edit:im a noob.. sorry guys
I would say this
Forged Block (9:1 Compression for Centrifugal and 8.5.1 for twinscrew)
LT's w/mid pipe
Race Clutch
Alum Flywheel
Spark Plugs
Gears
Shifter
Lower Control Arms
Upper Control Arms
Street Slicks
That should put you well into the 12's depending on your driving. My buddy has a Eaton with 435 rwhp on a dyno dynamics and ran a 12.6
The supercharger does not make your car run fast in the 1/4 its the supporting mods that make the supercharger reach those low numbers.
but about how much power where ya getting out of that thing exactly, cuz 8 psi honestly sounds just about right for me. I'm actually kinda torn what i should really do. I just got a college last year and money is kinda slim but i do have enough. I mean i love this car already, great power, and alot of fun to drive just at stock. I just thought maybe adding a lil more power could do me some good and have a lil more fun with it. This care isn't a daily driver also, i only drive it during the summer. I also dont really plan on drag racing it either much, sure maybe a few times for the fun of it but not alot. So i'll keep during research...
I would get a saleen blower they are good and safe. The rods in these stock cars are hit and miss. I have seen them last for months at 500rwhp but blow up and I have seen them blow on the dyno at 420rwhp. It is so hit and miss i would not want to tell you to do some thing and you have to spent money you can not afford to fix your car. I only say thing because I have been there and seeing your car sit because you have to find 7k to fix it is not fun and trust me lol 7k is not easy to get a hold of
Well apparently I made a mistake because I thought they only offered the HO kit with the intercooler and heat exchanger with the the 10psi kit and above. But I just saw on the website they also offer the same HO kit at 7 and 8 psi to. So, if you want to make sure your safe, go with one of those, and then you can change pulleys later if your so inclined.
Oh, and I think everyone is in agreement about the rods. I posted this pic before:
Daily driven 2005 GT AUTO - Whipple @ 16psi - 577 rwhp 519 rwtq
Best 1/8th mile: 6.740 @ 101.56 mph with a 1.431 60' time
Best 1/4 mile: 10.672 @ 128.42 mph with a 1.480 60' time Special thanks to:
ST Motorsports, San Bernardino CA - built engine and tune
Larry's Transmission, Corona CA - built 5R55S
M&H - 325/45/17 racemaster drag radials
GI Joe - 8 rib pulley kit
Thump_rrr - billet tensioner
If you went with the whipple, you want to go with the 10psi HO kit because of the intercooler. That way when you are ready with a built bottom end, you can go with a smaller pulley without spending more money on other supercharger upgrades.
Just because your at 10psi doesn't mean you have to go balls out on the dyno for 480rwhp. Like I said on the other board, you don't want 500rwhp with a stock block, because it will fail, just a matter of time. But 450rwhp is reasonable, and I have seen many cars survive at this level that get beat on pretty hard at the track.
Remember, the kit from Ford is advertised as 500 engine horsepower, which is basically 425RWHP.
If you still not comfortable with that, then I say STILL go with the HO kit, so you get the intercooler, but then go with a larger pulley if it makes you feel safer. The point is you want to buy the kit once.
I agree with that buy the bigger charger, but just because a lot of cars run 450 and not blow up they may never blow does not mean it wont. If the TS can afford to build a block if his block blows I would not worry about it but if its going to take him a year to save up. That is totally not worth it. I would rather have a car to drive then a car to look at.
Forged Block (9:1 Compression for Centrifugal and 8.5.1 for twinscrew)
LT's w/mid pipe
Race Clutch----
Alum Flywheel---
Spark Plugs
Gears
Shifter----
Lower Control Arms
Upper Control Arms
Street Slicks
That should put you well into the 12's depending on your driving. My buddy has a Eaton with 435 rwhp on a dyno dynamics and ran a 12.6
The supercharger does not make your car run fast in the 1/4 its the supporting mods that make the supercharger reach those low numbers.
The ones i put the --- next to, i wont need.. I have an automatic GT..
So then i take it, that a forged block, will be the thing that saves me from blowing it up.. I will plan on U/L Control arms.. and gears.. i planned for the gears at the same time as the blower.. never thought of LT's w/ midpipe.. is it necessary??
__________________
2006 Mustang GT A/T Performance//JLT intake + Tillman 93 Street Race//Flowmasters//FRPP 3.73s//Powerslot Slotted Rotors//Hawk HPS////Pypes LT Headers//O/R X//FRPP Stingers Show//20in DD Black bullitts//Nitto NT555's//CDC Classic//Roush Scoop//Street Scene 1/4 Louvers//GT500 Rear Wing//FRPP Lowering Springs//Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber plates//8000k Heads/Fogs//Blacked out Sequentials
Forged Block (9:1 Compression for Centrifugal and 8.5.1 for twinscrew)
LT's w/mid pipe
Race Clutch
Alum Flywheel
Spark Plugs
Gears
Shifter
Lower Control Arms
Upper Control Arms
Street Slicks
The supercharger does not make your car run fast in the 1/4 its the supporting mods that make the supercharger reach those low numbers.
I would add fuel system upgrade depending on how much boost you want to run.
And also, that last statement is so true. I have seen to many times people show up with alot of horsepower, 12-18 psi superchargers, etc, then try to run on a street tire with stock suspension. They are disappointed every time.
__________________
Paul
Daily driven 2005 GT AUTO - Whipple @ 16psi - 577 rwhp 519 rwtq
Best 1/8th mile: 6.740 @ 101.56 mph with a 1.431 60' time
Best 1/4 mile: 10.672 @ 128.42 mph with a 1.480 60' time Special thanks to:
ST Motorsports, San Bernardino CA - built engine and tune
Larry's Transmission, Corona CA - built 5R55S
M&H - 325/45/17 racemaster drag radials
GI Joe - 8 rib pulley kit
Thump_rrr - billet tensioner
The ones i put the --- next to, i wont need.. I have an automatic GT..
So then i take it, that a forged block, will be the thing that saves me from blowing it up.. I will plan on U/L Control arms.. and gears.. i planned for the gears at the same time as the blower.. never thought of LT's w/ midpipe.. is it necessary??
Auto, then when you up the psi (eventually) to anything around 12 or more, the stock torque converter will have to go. It will start locking / unlocking when it starts to go south. That will be the same time a fuel system upgrade will be needed.
__________________
Paul
Daily driven 2005 GT AUTO - Whipple @ 16psi - 577 rwhp 519 rwtq
Best 1/8th mile: 6.740 @ 101.56 mph with a 1.431 60' time
Best 1/4 mile: 10.672 @ 128.42 mph with a 1.480 60' time Special thanks to:
ST Motorsports, San Bernardino CA - built engine and tune
Larry's Transmission, Corona CA - built 5R55S
M&H - 325/45/17 racemaster drag radials
GI Joe - 8 rib pulley kit
Thump_rrr - billet tensioner
Well honestly even only 400 rwhp would satisfy me. Maybe i should start upgrading something else first then throw a supercharger in...oh i dont know anymore, i got till spring anyways so i'll have plenty of time to decide
