Your right on the money. Plus on the other side when you let off the rpms take their time coming down. It is all tune releated. Do you have a Race tune? They seem to be a little touchie.
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07 REDFIRE GT 5 SPEED 3.55 gears
C&L Racer CAI XCAL2/Seq signals/GTAs/Steeda UDP/CHE K Member Brace W/Torq Links/J&M LCA/Spider DS/PRO.50 Shifter Hurst handle & "T"/Meziere EO2/ARH LT catted H /Prothane MM/Delet Plates/SLP BOSS 429 Scoop/PowerSlot/Hawk Pads/Tokico D-Spec/CHE Panhard Bar Brace/Steeda Adj. Panhard Bar/BMR F/R Sway Bars/Cervini ducktail spoiler/GT\CS Rear Cover/AMChrome Bullets 18x9/10s/Nitto 255/45&295/45
Tillman Dyno Tune 307HP/322TQ I HAVE SOME PARTS IN THE CLASSIFIED SEC.
Ok, that makes me feel better. I have the race tune as well. Yeah, I look silly sometimes at a light because I end up "lunging" due to the sensitivity.
Well, that solves that. Anyone who has throttle response problems, just get a tune and life will be better.
You may recall a posting by a fellow named "tube" on mustangforums.com and cited here some time ago regarding a "DIY throttle response mod" that involved a novel approach to eliminating throttle response "dead space" by mechanical alteration of the "actuator" located in the gas pedal assembly unit.
For those who are interested in trying this approach (which I did and found relatively easy and effective), the link is as follows:
You may recall a posting by a fellow named "tube" on mustangforums.com and cited here some time ago regarding a "DIY throttle response mod" that involved a novel approach to eliminating throttle response "dead space" by mechanical alteration of the "actuator" located in the gas pedal assembly unit.
For those who are interested in trying this approach (which I did and found relatively easy and effective), the link is as follows:
I do remember that but was a little skeptical about cracking open the unit and messing with it. I actually went out and bought a whole new pedal assembly and I haven't really had any trouble since.
You may recall a posting by a fellow named "tube" on mustangforums.com and cited here some time ago regarding a "DIY throttle response mod" that involved a novel approach to eliminating throttle response "dead space" by mechanical alteration of the "actuator" located in the gas pedal assembly unit.
For those who are interested in trying this approach (which I did and found relatively easy and effective), the link is as follows:
Thank you for posting the link, I tried searching for it the other night but was unable to find it.
Looks like a good fix, I'm going to try it as soon as things warm up a bit around here.
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'07 Vista Blue GT Premium 5 Speed, Leather, Shaker 1000, 18" Blades.
Still stock, like it just the way it is.
STLWAGON where did u order the pedal assembly from? thinking about doing this myself but want to have a back up unit to keep me safe from messing anything up
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2007 GT-Pro-charger P1SC 10lb kit (pushing 12lb's for some reason but not complaining), Steeda ultra lite wheels, Nitto 555's, Roush louvers, Accel COP's, Jerry rigged PCV collector,dual chamber flowmaster exhaust, SCT 93 tune by hank and sons performance Langhorne, Pa
I was also concerned about "messing [something] up" with respect to following the "DIY" instructions for the outlined modification and accordingly considered purchasing a "back-up" pedal assembly in case this occurred. However, my own expereince was that the small tines that must be individually bent (there are 6-8 as I recall: see "mod" graphics to view same) are actually quite robust to being bent as directed provided one excercises patience, has a relatively steady hand and uses the proper tool. In this last regard, I determined that two sets of tweezers worked best.
One other thought regarding the "modification" (not outlined by the author of the same) is that it would be prophalactic to literally "shave" the edge off the 90 degree angle of the "block" over whose edge the bent tines angle downward, this to avoid subsequent "accidental contact" with it following reinstallation of the assembly (again, see "mod" graphics re same).
Besides the mod posted above you can place a piece of tape between the pedal assy and the pedal return stop. Will do the same thing. You have to look at the assy to see what I mean.
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06 GT Premium in Legend Lime, Konig Beyonds, Hurst, JBA, Steeda stuff, MAC CAI, Sniper tune, LT's, H pipe w/Pypes cats, VIS Racing CF heat extractor hood, Tokico D-Specs, Ingalls Engineering, Silver Horse Racing, LLR #0174
STLWAGON where did u order the pedal assembly from? thinking about doing this myself but want to have a back up unit to keep me safe from messing anything up
Very clever idea booger, and certainly less problematic than attempting to perform the mechanical equivalent of "surgery" (as outlined in the "DIY mod" instructions referenced) on what I understand is a roughly $50 part given that the "tape" approach you used/suggest either immediately works (as you indicated) or doesn't whereas the "DIY mod" approach requires a substantial number of steps to determine if it works and carries the risks outlined by its contributor (e.g., broken tines).
Very clever idea booger, and certainly less problematic than attempting to perform the mechanical equivalent of "surgery" (as outlined in the "DIY mod" instructions referenced) on what I understand is a roughly $50 part given that the "tape" approach you used/suggest either immediately works (as you indicated) or doesn't whereas the "DIY mod" approach requires a substantial number of steps to determine if it works and carries the risks outlined by its contributor (e.g., broken tines).
I did the tape thing on my old pedal. It works but you have to find the right thickness so that your pedal is not always engaged.
I realize that it's annoying but it's designed that way to prevent stress on the drivetrain. There are a couple of dashpot settings that can reduce (not eliminate) it. You can't get rid of it entirely or you end up with engine failsafe problems.
STL, is there a link somewhere about those settings?
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My Chiropractor wishes all cars had Mustang headrests.
