GT 500 Throttle Body Install on 2006 Mustang GT. Need Help!
Help. Before I knew any better, I bought the Gt 500 w/spacer. I know everybody says it is a waste,but, I am installing a CAI and I have the shaker scoop so I wanted to put it on anyway. The bottom studs appear to be coming out from the backside of the TB. The top bolts are no problem. With the spacer, I don't have enough threads to thread on the stock nuts. The TB came with 4 bolts. Do I have to do major surgury on the intake to get them out? It is the first nice day here in WI, so I put the stock TB back on amidst mucho cursing. I sent STL a PM so I wouldn't embarrass myself, but, now I can't wait to get the car out. Help me if you can. Thanks
not sure if this is what you're
looking for....but if you thread two
nuts on the stud, you can then use
an open end wrench on the back
nut and carefully unscrew the stud
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2006 Mustang GT
Whipple HO
Hot Rod Cams
M-5230-S (KR's)
Ill try the 2 nut trick & post a picture soon. Thanks
Hope you get it figured out. I also laughed when you stated you sent a pm to STL. Don't get embarrassed with questions like these. Nobody here is going to laugh at you. I personally benefit from these questions because I get flustered by the littlest things under the hood where a seasoned mechanic would find it no big deal.
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66 Coupe Tahoe Turq - 200, Pertronix & Flamethrower, 3 Row Rad, Cliff. 6/2 96 GT Vert Laser Red - FMS pulleys, Bullet ProM, BBK CAI, Prof. Prod. Elbow and 70mm TB, MAC Off-Road H, Borla side exhaust, Tokicos, B&M Ripper, 18x10 & 18x9 DD Bulletts 06 GT Tungsten, UIP, Red Leather, Stick, 18" blades, Steeda CAI, SCT XCal 2 w/ MC Racing 91 tune, MACs, BMR SP010 springs, BMR Adj Panhard, CDC ducktail & quarter louvers, Rear louver, painted black stripes
Thanks, in time I may be able to help others. When the "2 -nut trick " was brought up, I thought.. " D'oh !" I guess hearing info from other ,more experienced Mustangers eases the mind. I have apprehension with modifying an otherwise perfectly running vehicle. My world is full of problems that no one else seems to ever have. Lucky, I guess. I will post photos of stud removal this weekend, if my computer doesn't hate me.
OKay, everybody was/is correct. The TB is a bad move. I didn't get any photos to post about the backing out of the bottom threads on the stock throttlebody, as I feel that if I can do it, ANYONE can. The problems: first, the shaker did not want to sit atop the new throttle body mostly on the drivers side maybe due to the adapter. Second, while driving through town about 35 MPH, I let off to slow down for an impending fuel stop, the car kept speed. Third, check engine codes , and, I didn't pay attention to what they were as I was busy cursing evey bad word that I knew. I used a few alien words & some Spanish & Serbian as well.
The TB came off and now looks great on the bench holding down various papers and such. The Boom Tubes sound great and were about as much trouble as I anticipated. The Magnaflows were definitely on there tight.
OKay, everybody was/is correct. The TB is a bad move. I didn't get any photos to post about the backing out of the bottom threads on the stock throttlebody, as I feel that if I can do it, ANYONE can. The problems: first, the shaker did not want to sit atop the new throttle body mostly on the drivers side maybe due to the adapter. Second, while driving through town about 35 MPH, I let off to slow down for an impending fuel stop, the car kept speed. Third, check engine codes , and, I didn't pay attention to what they were as I was busy cursing evey bad word that I knew. I used a few alien words & some Spanish & Serbian as well.
The TB came off and now looks great on the bench holding down various papers and such. The Boom Tubes sound great and were about as much trouble as I anticipated. The Magnaflows were definitely on there tight.
You may just need to throttle position sensor voltage adjustment. Should be between 1.19 and 1.31 volts.
Stl, somehow I figured that the fix would be something I would have to ask "Huh ? " I need to route the shaker into the CAI first. It was a pain losing sockets dealing with the shaker. I don't want to take it off for at least a week, but, How & where is the adjustment made/located?
Stl, somehow I figured that the fix would be something I would have to ask "Huh ? " I need to route the shaker into the CAI first. It was a pain losing sockets dealing with the shaker. I don't want to take it off for at least a week, but, How & where is the adjustment made/located?
CHECKING TPS VOLTAGE
To check the TPS voltage you must have a DIGITAL voltmeter.
1. Reinstall the stock throttle body.
2. LEAVE THE THROTTLE BODY MOTOR UNPLUGGED (the small connector on the driver side of the throttle body).
3. Ground the black wire of your meter and poke the probe of the red wire on the meter into the YELLOW wire of the TPS sensor which is the bottom wire on the plug located on the passenger side of the throttle body. You DO NOT need to break the wire to read voltage. The best way to probe the yellow wire is to poke the probe into the plastic harness plug (while it’s plugged in to the TPS). You will need to penetrate the blue insulator the goes around the end of the yellow wire (hidden inside the harness plug) to reach the bare metal end of the yellow wire. Touch the probe to the bare metal end of the yellow wire
4. Turn the ignition to the ON position but do not start the car.
5. Read the meter display. You should see a voltage reading between 1.19-1.31 volts. Write the voltage down.
6. Now re-install the GT-500 throttle body and repeat steps 2-5.
7. If the TPS voltage on the GT-500 throttle body varies from the stock TPS voltage then follow the next steps to adjust the GT-500 to stock settings. This is easily done with the throttle body bolted to the car.
ADJUSTING TPS VOLTAGE
1. With your meter still connected, loosen the mounting screws on the TPS sensor and gently rotate it until the desired voltage is achieved. Then tighten the screws.
2. Once the desired voltage is acheived, plug the throttle body motor in.
3. Turn the ignition key to the OFF position, then cycle the ignition key from the ON position 4 times to allow the car to "self check" the throttle body and sensors for proper operation.
If the throttle body voltage and senors are correct then the CHECK ENGINE and FAILSAFE warnings should be gone when you turn the key on for the 4th time..
Thanks STL, At first, I was hesitant to even read this procedure. I felt like a rocket scientist was trying to explain physics to a fry cook. It doesn't seem that hard so I will get a meter and try again. I can always go back, right? The only problem now is that the shaker does not seem to want to seat properly on the top TB bolts due to the adapter. Any ideas?
Thanks STL, At first, I was hesitant to even read this procedure. I felt like a rocket scientist was trying to explain physics to a fry cook. It doesn't seem that hard so I will get a meter and try again. I can always go back, right? The only problem now is that the shaker does not seem to want to seat properly on the top TB bolts due to the adapter. Any ideas?
Thanks again
My shaker just sits on top of the bolts in the front. I actually cut the bottom off the front shaker brackets and now have more of an upside down U in the bracket instead of a hole. I just push it down over the bolts and the hood keeps it in place. Makes it a snap to remove too!
Ob-Wan, the force is strong in you. .... I also watch a lot of "Kung Fu" DVDs. I love it when a vital piece of information that you can not fathom how priceless it is to some, just falls in our laps. Remember everyone's Grandmother that had " 12:00 AM "
flashing on that V.C.R forever ? That's me... ( I.E. the shaker mounts ).
Ob-Wan, the force is strong in you. .... I also watch a lot of "Kung Fu" DVDs. I love it when a vital piece of information that you can not fathom how priceless it is to some, just falls in our laps. Remember everyone's Grandmother that had " 12:00 AM "
flashing on that V.C.R forever ? That's me... ( I.E. the shaker mounts ).
Thanks yet again, STL.
Let me know if you end up doing it. I used a dremel cutting wheel to modify the brackets.
So, if there's a problem with TPS voltage, you'll get CELs without even running the car? I guess that is the part I'm unclear on.
I have a 3v 5.4L in my 05, and I had my intake made for the GT500 TB. I get a wrench light under anything but the lightest acceleration. It'll idle just fine w/o the CEL or wrench light. As soon as I get on the road and give it some gas, the car goes into limp home mode.
The only reason I haven't bothered with checking the TPS voltage, is that I don't have a stock GT throttle body to check the voltage on, nor would it fit. The intake was specifically made for the GT500 TB.
GT 500 Throttle Body Install on 2006 Mustang GT. Need Help! 
