its subjective, some people say superchargers, others say turbo, i would say the supercharger is harder on the car due to the strain from the belts but the turbos usually run alot hotter as well so both have their pros and cons but in my opinion with an intercooler i would go turbo
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2006 V6 Pony Package Premium -Mods: 61mm Powerhouse Turbo and Intercooler, Evolution Dyno Tune(Jon Lund), Steeda Performance Shorty Headers. Current Numbers: 350 rwhp/420 torque @ 8.3 psi (low boost)
415 rwhp/470 torque @12 psi Car died 6/23/09
New Set Up: 4.6 3v With Manual Trans, Bolt Ons
The reality is some feel big power is worth waiting for, others know timing is everything.
It is more in the linearity of the torque curve that suits a daily driver best. Twin screw does that best. That is why AMG used IHI twin screws in their 32s and 55s; to simulate the feel of a big block. Boost lag is a reality in turbos and big Prochargers. Impressive at the straight track launch and great until top speed is reached by the Si97 chassis and gearing. If one wanted to be king of the highway, then one should've bought a Supra. A twin screw is king of the daily drivers because of the torque delivery. That is why FRPP chose Whipple for its Super packs. I believe a Whipple HO 4.6 S197 does pretty good against its expensive GT 500 cousin in all around performance with a tuned suspension and power to weight ratio (3450 lbs vs. 3920 lbs, respectively) for $30K less.
Amen, brother......
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2005 Mustang GT with 04 Cobra iron block, 300 ci, Kenne Bell 2.6l twin screw, P&P S3 Heads, SS valves, Comp S3 cams, Currie 9+ 9" rear end and DS (coming soon), Hurst shifter, BMR K-member, A-arms, LCAs & UCA, JBA long tubes & mid-pipe, Accel COPs, GT500 fuel pumps, much more... 659 RWHP, 598 Tq @ 12 psi & 5800 RPM
yes but the rods will give out way earlier then the crank will what it comes down to is that its pretty minimal and I would not let that decide which application you should get.
Get what you think is more cool looking, best sound, and what you will be happy with.
What it all comes down to they are all equally great in there own ways for the mid to low power range. They are all capable of making a good 10 second car and will change your car dramatically.
Now if you want a 9 second 1000 horse power monster then a turbo is going to be your best application because you can just turn the boost down for street driving, where with an S/C you cant.
a turbo is going to be your best application because you can just turn the boost down for street driving, where with an S/C you cant.
What do mean? I can change my boost level any time. When I'm driving around town I have no boost at all.
That is unless I mash the accelerator. I can be driving around town in 4th gear at 35 MPH, that puts me somewhere around 2000 RPM, normal driving speed and RPM. But when I mash the pedal, still in 4th gear, I have an instant, on demand 500+ pounds of torque. It's like driving around with a big block 429. Turbos can't do that, neither can cetrifugals. It's just physics.
If I don't mash the accelerator I'm the same as any naturally aspirated car.
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2005 Mustang GT with 04 Cobra iron block, 300 ci, Kenne Bell 2.6l twin screw, P&P S3 Heads, SS valves, Comp S3 cams, Currie 9+ 9" rear end and DS (coming soon), Hurst shifter, BMR K-member, A-arms, LCAs & UCA, JBA long tubes & mid-pipe, Accel COPs, GT500 fuel pumps, much more... 659 RWHP, 598 Tq @ 12 psi & 5800 RPM
Hate to cut in like this, but how does that work? Is there an RPM trigger that engages the S/C, or is there a switch on the pedal, or something else? I'm totally ignorant of forced induction (obviously!).
Hate to cut in like this, but how does that work? Is there an RPM trigger that engages the S/C, or is there a switch on the pedal, or something else? I'm totally ignorant of forced induction (obviously!).
~HA
On my twin screw S/C there is a bypass valve that is controlled by vacuum. So when you idling or just driving around town or on the freeway, the vacuum is high and this keeps the bypass valve open. When the valve is open all the boost I am making is simply thrown away and I am running as any naturally aspirated car runs.
But when I step on the gas a bit the vacuum drops. The more accelerator the less vacuum. At a certain point the bypass valve starts closing. Not all at once, it's not an on/off switch. As the valve closes more it allows more boost into the engine and when you are at WOT the valve is fully closed giving all the boost to the engine.
It's actually a very cool, very simple system that allows for extremely well behaved street manners while also giving massive power when you need it.
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2005 Mustang GT with 04 Cobra iron block, 300 ci, Kenne Bell 2.6l twin screw, P&P S3 Heads, SS valves, Comp S3 cams, Currie 9+ 9" rear end and DS (coming soon), Hurst shifter, BMR K-member, A-arms, LCAs & UCA, JBA long tubes & mid-pipe, Accel COPs, GT500 fuel pumps, much more... 659 RWHP, 598 Tq @ 12 psi & 5800 RPM
What do mean? I can change my boost level any time. When I'm driving around town I have no boost at all.
That is unless I mash the accelerator. I can be driving around town in 4th gear at 35 MPH, that puts me somewhere around 2000 RPM, normal driving speed and RPM. But when I mash the pedal, still in 4th gear, I have an instant, on demand 500+ pounds of torque. It's like driving around with a big block 429. Turbos can't do that, neither can cetrifugals. It's just physics.
If I don't mash the accelerator I'm the same as any naturally aspirated car.
You are underdriven in the brain.
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2006/2008 FFW Ultra Stang World Champion
'07 Mustang GT - Heritage GT Twin Turbo System 10.88 - 127.89 mph
Arguing about wish is better is the stupidest thing ever. Who cares if you can press the gas and get 500ftlbs of torque and who cares if your turbo is burnt off exhaust waste and you can drive around at lower boost.
You both are sounding like tools. ANY system can be built to beat ANY SYSTEM. I have seen Prochargers OWN KB's, I have seen KB's own Prochargers and Turbo's own vise versa.
If you want to get technical Whipple will own KB any day of the week with there 3.4 and a Procharger F1 will own a KB. A T-80 Turbo System will destroy an KB. What is the largest KB 2.6L which is comparable in flow rates to a Procharger D1 and probably a T76 Turbo.
There are no facts being stated and no actual testing that has been done to prove which is better. The only way and I mean the ONLY way to be able to say one is better then the other is if they take the SAME car and get a base dyno NA and bolt each system up to each other. Do a dyno result on the SAME dyno because different dynos have been known to show at times 30 more hp or so then others.
Then run them on the dyno and 1/4. this is seriously insane how either of you are acting. To me a turbo is more effecient because of how it operates off of exhaust waste. What it all comes down to is personal pref. Also who is seriously going to punch it in 4 gear? going that slow. I am going to slam my car down into second or 1st were my car will have created boost at that RPM range and smoke em.
But I save my fun for the track. There is no need for that much power on any street and with street tires you will NEVER get all that power to the ground.
It's so exciting to see people that devoted to complete different systems and not back down on anything. To me it's just a matter of how you want the power and were.
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Steeda CAI W/93 SCT Tune, Steeda CMDP, Steeda UDP, Steeda LCA, Steeda UCA, Steeda Sport Springs, Steeda Panhard Bar & Brace, Steeda Hood Strut Mounts, Steeda adjustable Camber Plates, Tokico D-Specs, G2 Painted Calipers,Sequentail Tail Lights, Magnaflow Free-Flo Cats W/Exhaust, Homelink Self Dimming Rear Veiw Mirror W/ Garage Door Opener, Compass & Temp, Eclipse AVN 5510 Head Unit W/ Nav, Chrome BBK Plenum Cover and various Dress-up Items.
It's so exciting to see people that devoted to complete different systems and not back down on anything. To me it's just a matter of how you want the power and were.
Agreed. I've been undecided as well which system to go with, but I got an opportunity thru my connections in the parts business on a Garrett Twin Turbo system at a very reasonable price, so I bought it today. And so the project begins...
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06 Screamin' Yellow GT Convertible - Premium, AT, KOOKS LT headers w/catted X - Corsa Exhaust, MagnaCharger SC, FRPP Rear w/3:73 gears & LPW Cap Cover, KW Variant 3 Coilover Suspension, CDC Hood Lift Kit & Classic Chin, SLVHRS Billet Fuel door, MW Eng. Strut & Rad Covers, Strange Dev. Strut Brace; CHE LCA's & adj. UCA, relo brackets, Steeda Adj. Panhard Bar, FRPP Black Valve Covers, 3D Carbon "Eleanor" Grille, AM Halo Fogs.
