My '06 GT convertible is driven from April 15 to October 15. When it snows and blows, the Mustang sleeps in an unheated garage. After discussion with the dealer in the fall of '06, we decided to remove the battery and store it indoors. The following spring, I re-installed the battery. The vehicle started normally. The clock and radio station preferences were reset and we hit the road. About a month into the '07 spring season, the vehicle would not start. The dealer replaced the batttery under warranty. All was well for the rest of the season. Around mid-April of '08, the stored battery (replacement) was re-installed and everything started up normally. After about a month of intermittent use (the weather has been spotty this year) we had another no-start. After jump starting and re-setting the clock and radio, everything was back to normal. The dealer has looked at it again and has recommended (a) drive more and (b) get an intelligent trickle charger. Ford has issued TSB 07-5-13 on the subject which suggests that operation for two hours or more at RPM's above 1500 are required to fully charge a battery. The bulleting applies to 2005-2008 Ford Mustang, Explorer, Expedition and Lincoln Navigator.
There are no after-market devices installed in the vehicle. My closest neighbors have 4 Mustang GT's (2002 to 2006) between them. All are winter stored without removing the battery. Most of them driver their vehicles less than I do. None have reported battery problems
Has anyone out there had similar experience?
You can't just pull the batt and expect it to hold a charge. You need to put the batt on a trickle charger and make sure it's not on concrete. And STL is right you should have the alt. checked for output.
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07 REDFIRE GT 5 SPEED 3.55 gears
C&L Racer CAI XCAL2/Seq signals/GTAs/Steeda UDP/CHE K Member Brace W/Torq Links/J&M LCA/Spider DS/PRO.50 Shifter Hurst handle & "T"/Meziere EO2/ARH LT catted H /Prothane MM/Delet Plates/SLP BOSS 429 Scoop/Accel COP/PowerSlot/Hawk Pads/Tokico D-Spec/CHE Panhard Bar Brace/Steeda Adj. Panhard Bar/BMR F/R Sway Bars/Cervini ducktail spoiler/BMR UCA Mount/CHE UCA/GT\CS Rear Cover/AMChrome Bullets 18x9/10s/Nitto 255/45&295/45
Tillman Dyno Tune 307HP/322TQ
My battery failed at about the 2 1/2 year mark. Not a daily driver because of the traffic. Shut off the radio when you shut down. The internal system is always running checks so that adds to the battery being taxed for power. Even if you don't drive it crank it up for a few minutes to put a little charge back in.
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2006 GT, 5 speed, black on black
Steeda Tri-Ax, MagnaFlow catbacks, Steeda CAI w/HF elbow, Steeda UDP's, 4.10's w/FRPP girdle, CHE K member w/torque limiters, Spydershaft, SoS Three guage pillar pod, Tokico D Specs w/remote adjusters, 294.6 HP, 306.3 TQ (SAE corrected)
You answered your own question in your first sentence. You must use a battery maintainer if you dont drive the car daily. There's no way around it, and all the battery theory in the world won't turn your engine over when it dies. I've been a Porsche Rep for 13-years and if the cars sit for a week and a half, it's toast, and the Moll-Porsche Batteries are a lot more than a Motorcraft. It's a *****, but that's the way it is. You can get a decent maintainer for $19 at Walmart, or a good one from Battery Tender for $49. I spend the few minutes needed to install the permanent plug on the battery. When I put it in the garage, I pop the hood and plug it in. I do the same with my Harley.
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2006 GT, 5 spd, Performance White w/ PAINTED Blue Pearl stripes, Roush hood scoop, Ford Racing Ceramic Shorty Headers, MRT AeroTurbine Axle-backs, Hurst Shifter, K&N, Predator 93 Tune, FRPP 4.10's, Raptor Shift Light, Black FR500s w/ BFG KDW 255/45-18's.
I let my 06GT sit for 4 days.. and it was completely dead. Ford replaced battery under warranty (only had 12 months and 9K mi rolled up). As soon as I got it home, hooked it up to a battery tender plus unit.. no problems since. I use the dash power plug adapter to float charge it while not in use (instead of opening/closing hood).
The first year I stored my 06 during winter my battery went dead two - three times. I couldn't figure what was drawing against the battery. This past winter I didn't arm the alarm and the battery was fine all winter. The car sat for 3 months never started. Fired up with no problems when spring hit. So now I don't arm the alarm when stored.
There was a post on another forum regarding the battery issue. After letting car sit for an hour, he found he still had parasitic drain... turned out to be a faulty window switch relay in the door (constantly drawing mA). Replaced switch and re-tested.. found he no longer had any parasitic drain and hasn't had a battery problem since.
There was a post on another forum regarding the battery issue. After letting car sit for an hour, he found he still had parasitic drain... turned out to be a faulty window switch relay in the door (constantly drawing mA). Replaced switch and re-tested.. found he no longer had any parasitic drain and hasn't had a battery problem since.
How on earth did he manage to find a switch drawing current?
Here's the post regarding the faulty window relay... not too much detail as to how it was diagnosed (other than pulling fuses one at a time). It was on the MustangForums.com. Post #43
My battery died on me tonight. 1.5 years of owning the Mustang. I've tried charging it (for 30 minutes) and it did no good. It charged enough to work the electronics but not enough to start the car (clicking noises when the car turns over). Hopefully at 18,000 miles and 1.5 years of ownership the battery is still under warranty that I can get it replaced. It's just a matter of trying to get the car, with a non-functioning battery to the dealership so that I can get a replacement installed.
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The Silver Bullitt: Not Steve McQueen Cool, But Cool Enough For Me
For Play: '06 Premium v6 Mustang. Shelby GT500 Body Kit Conversion and Magnaflow Dual Exhaust.
For Work: '08 Hyundai Sonata. Yes I flipped to the "dark side" lol, but the '03 Mustang just didn't cut the mustard.