if your asking if im still under the warranty yes i am. that what i kind of thought i thought if there was a clutch adjustment it needed to be adjusted. it once in a while though but if it get worse i'g going to have to take it in
There are no adjustments to the clutch. It is fully self adjustable. Better take it in.
i dont know if the new style is different i have an 02 and there is a way to adjust the clutch by moving the quadrant above the gas peddle and we have a fully self adjusting clutch to. Like i said i dont know if it will work for your model but i know i like mine alot better now took it out of the floor and about mid-range where id prefer. its worth a shot if you dont like it just use your foot to pull the peddle back out and try again.
i did not write the following.
how to adjust your clutch without an adjuster (and no not by lifting the pedal)....this REALLY adjusts it/works!!
This article will hopefully explain how to easily adjust the stock clutch in your Mustang. Many people think that all they can do is use the self-adjust mechanism as described in the owner’s manual and then live with that, or else buy an aftermarket adjustable clutch cable or some other device. Well, that is not exactly true, since the stock clutch setup is completely adjustable so the clutch can be made to release or engage at any point in the pedal travel. Reasons you might want to adjust the clutch: Clutch is getting worn out Clutch pedal has a "dead" or "mushy" feeling to the first part of the travel Difficulty shifting (shifter doesn’t move freely, or gears clash, etc) Just a preference to set the clutch engagement point where you want it Obviously each of these reasons can be due to other problems, but since this is a "no cost" modification, you might consider trying it first. For safety, I strongly recommend that you spend the time getting to know how the clutch and the adjustment mechanism work, so that you will really understand what you are doing. Also, any clutch adjustment should be performed with the engine turned off, transmission in neutral, and the parking brake firmly set. There are two ways to adjust the clutch, depending on the reason you are adjusting it in the first place. The standard procedure called out in your owner’s manual is to pull the clutch pedal back toward the driver’s seat. Sometimes this is referred to as "lifting" the clutch pedal since it is usually done with the toe of your shoe while you sit in the seat. This activates the self-adjusting mechanism and is generally fine for most people and is the procedure to use as the clutch wears normally. The second method is the one most performance enthusiasts would probably want to consider, as it allows the clutch to be adjusted so it releases/engages wherever you desire for your particular driving style. This is one of those jobs that can literally be a pain in the neck if you really want to understand how the stock clutch adjustment mechanism works, since you have to look up under the dash from the throttle pedal’s point of view. But, the actual adjustment can easily be done kneeling next to the car and reaching under the dash once you know the method, this is especially good if you are like me and don't fit under the dash very well. Now, it is important to understand the basics. Viewed from the driver’s seat, the brake pedal is between the clutch pedal and the throttle pedal. However, looking under the hood you will notice that the clutch cable goes through the "firewall" between the brake booster and the throttle cable. http://www.corral.net/images/tech/clutch1.jpg This picture is taken from the radio’s point of view, looking toward the driver’s side of the car. The dash is removed in this photo along with all of the interior trim that would normally be visible from this angle. It shows the steering shaft (goldish colored), clutch and brake pedals (black - hanging down in the center of the picture). So to the right of the picture is the "firewall" (forward in the car) and to the left would be the driver’s seat. Although the picture does not show the complete quadrant assembly, studying it should help you understand the mechanism. (I found this in the "random pictures from the past" pile in a drawer and hopefully it is good enough, as I really don’t feel like taking the dash apart to get a better picture for this article. If someone has a better picture, feel free to submit it to the Corral and it will be added.) The clutch pedal is solidly connected to the shaft that comes through the top center of the picture. This shaft is also solidly connected to the steel arm that extends forward and holds the small ratchet mechanism seen in the upper right of the picture (with a clip holding the ratchet to a small shaft on the steel arm). Ignore everything else for a moment and just think about what happens when you push the clutch pedal. The pedal moves to the right in this picture, causing the shaft in the top of the picture to rotate counterclockwise, causing the small ratchet mechanism assembly to rotate upward. Once you understand that, then the rest will be easier to follow. Now would be a good time to define exactly what this "quadrant" thing is that people talk about. A quadrant is just ¼ of a circle. It is the light colored part of this clutch ratchet mechanism that is in the top center of this picture (actually appears to be more like 1/3 of a circle). It has little teeth on its perimeter and is held onto the clutch pedal shaft by the clip that is visible. However, the quadrant is floating on the shaft, as it is not splined to the shaft and does not directly have to rotate with the shaft (this is a very important part of understanding how the mechanism works). The clutch cable comes through the "firewall" and attaches to the top of the quadrant, in much the same way that the throttle cable attaches to the throttle body. (Unfortunately this section of the quadrant is out of view above the picture.) Again, think about what happens when you push the clutch pedal. The small ratchet mechanism assembly on the right rotates upward. This small ratchet mechanism has teeth that are meshed with the quadrant’s teeth, causing the quadrant to rotate counterclockwise, pulling the clutch cable. If you have difficulty visualizing all of the motion from the picture and this description, then it may be worthwhile at this point to look at it in your car and push the pedal by hand so you can watch what happens. Now, let’s look at the two actual adjustment methods. The first method is the one described in the owner’s manual. If you pull the clutch pedal back toward the driver’s seat, you will be rotating the small ratchet mechanism assembly downward. Looking at the picture, you’ll notice that the small ratchet mechanism will push against a metal "tab", causing the teeth of the small ratchet mechanism to disengage from the teeth of the quadrant. This causes the clutch to self adjust into the normal location. Many people (including me) find that this makes the clutch pedal position annoyingly close to the floor when the clutch engages/disangages. The second method is the one you are most interested in and you can probably already see what to do if you understand how the whole ratchet/quadrant thing works.
again my clutch is self adjusting clutch and it sure is adjustable if you read that article and put it to use but like i also said i havent seen on the new models so look and give it a shot you might be amazed at what it does
STL is correct (as usual). The 05 up's have a completely different system then the 04 and earlier cars. They are non-adjustable (self adjusting).
Take it to the dealer for warranty work.
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2007 Mustang GT Vista Blue 740RWHP/motor 904RWHP/spray 9.01 @ 152 mph 1/4 mile, 1.40 60' 2008 Clash of the Titans World Finals Champion 2009 Strictly Street Points leader/ET & MPH Record Holder
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hmmm.... i dont know much but from the sounds of it... i dont think your clutch is slipping... usually from what ive experienced or know... you will start to get 'sticky' gears and your clutch itself start to get a higher or lower 'rumble point'.
Something else to watch for is after you shifter gears and hit the gas do your rps's all of a sudden drop and then start to go back up...
anyhow... so let me get this right... your saying you got sticky gears right?
more info would help too if somone knowledgeable decides to post up... what year is your car.. and how many k you got on the current clutch?
I was doing a little browsing to try to diagnose a clutch issue I am having and this almost describes it: "Something else to watch for is after you shifter gears and hit the gas do your rps's all of a sudden drop and then start to go back up..."
The only diference is that after a normal 1-2 or 2-3 shift, under moderate acceleration, the rpms will rev without the accompanying acceleration for a second or two, and then, finally, rpms drop down to a matched roadspeed and the car jerks like a slightly dropped clutch.
I was thinking the clutch may have been glazed from an improper break-in period (I didn't own the car for the first 6K, 12K now)...
I think the shop manual has a test for slippage: with car in neutral and brakes applied rev to 2,000 rpm and release the clutch. If it stalls within 5 seconds, it's O.K.
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2005 Windveil Blue V-6, Manual Trans, GT Dual exhaust and mufflers, FRPP X-pipe, JBA shorty headers, CA Spec X-Charger 3.0 pulley, XXtuning tune, throttle body coolant bypass, 180 F thermostat, Moss Mustang Oil Cooler, GT 18" Fanblades, SSI Ducktail Spoiler, CDC chin spoiler, FRPP strut tower brace, FRPP lowering springs, FRPP struts and shocks, GT front and rear sway bars, Stewart Warner boost gauge in Roush vent pod. 275 rwhp, 294 rwtq.
i dont know what wrong with my car. I think the clutch may be slipping. Sometimes when im driving and im coming to a stop light or stopping and i push the clutch in and **** to first the gears grind and i know i have the clutch fully depressed. Dont know if anybody can help me. but i dont ride the clutch or prolong letting it out from starts so i dont think its burned please help
I can't tell from your description here but are you completely stopped before you shift back in to first gear or are you slowly coming to a stop?
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). The 05 up's have a completely different system then the 04 and earlier cars. They are non-adjustable (self adjusting).
