FYI: "power/pressure" brake bleeding option and product/s for same
For those of you who are not aware of this product or simply want an alternative to the standard DIY brake bleeding method (i.e., of "siphoning" brake fluid until there are no more air bubbles in the fluid stream), Motive Products makes a relatively inexpensive "power/pressure bleeding system" similar to what some dealerships/many race teams use.
Functionaly, the product/sequence is
(1) a 2.5-3 qt. container you fill with brake fluid, then
(2) attach with the appropriate adapter (supplied with the kit) to the master cylinder opening where fluid is filled, then
(3) pressurize by pumping the container up manually, and then
(4) use to bleed your brake system by opening each bleeder in the sequence required (i.e., RR, LR, FR, FL) until no more air bubbles emerge from each/all bleeders.
I personally used this product this past weekend to flush my system so I could fill it with Motul 5.1 fluid and the product performed FLAWLESSLy, allowing me to easily and quickly accomplish a task that is tedious at best and usually requires two people unless you use something like a Mighty Vac, which I used once with relatively poor results compared to the Motive product.
I would STRONGLY recommend that you obtain and install some form of "speed bleeder" BEFORE you begin the process of "power/pressure" bleeding your system (e.g., Russell makes a set of four "speed bleeders" for about $8.00; others sell them too). Doing so will make the bleeding process MUCH easier and you will NOT have to be concerned that any air is being "sucked back" into the line you're bleeding.
Very good info as always... But Ford recommends that you do not pressure bleed our system do to the anti-lock system. If you don't have it then your golden. If you do you need to use a evac type system... As for Fords manual.
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07 REDFIRE GT 5 SPEED 3.55 gears
C&L Racer CAI XCAL2/Seq signals/GTAs/Steeda UDP/CHE K Member Brace W/Torq Links/J&M LCA/Spider DS/PRO.50 Shifter Hurst handle & "T"/Meziere EO2/ARH LT catted H /Prothane MM/Delet Plates/SLP BOSS 429 Scoop/Accel COP/PowerSlot/Hawk Pads/Tokico D-Spec/CHE Panhard Bar Brace/Steeda Adj. Panhard Bar/BMR F/R Sway Bars/Cervini ducktail spoiler/BMR UCA Mount/CHE UCA/GT\CS Rear Cover/AMChrome Bullets 18x9/10s/Nitto 255/45&295/45
Tillman Dyno Tune 307HP/322TQ
With the exception of giving the computer control of the brakes through controlling pressure, I don't understand how one is related to the other.
(Unless they're saying there's some sort of internal valving that can get messed up. That's a different story.)
Thoughts?
You answered your own question. the computer control the system and the internal valving will get messed up. Its in that alum. block just behind the drivers headlite. I've heard that is expensive to have it fixed or replaced..
Your right the sensors only give a signal then a wheel stops turning and needs to be released.
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07 REDFIRE GT 5 SPEED 3.55 gears
C&L Racer CAI XCAL2/Seq signals/GTAs/Steeda UDP/CHE K Member Brace W/Torq Links/J&M LCA/Spider DS/PRO.50 Shifter Hurst handle & "T"/Meziere EO2/ARH LT catted H /Prothane MM/Delet Plates/SLP BOSS 429 Scoop/Accel COP/PowerSlot/Hawk Pads/Tokico D-Spec/CHE Panhard Bar Brace/Steeda Adj. Panhard Bar/BMR F/R Sway Bars/Cervini ducktail spoiler/BMR UCA Mount/CHE UCA/GT\CS Rear Cover/AMChrome Bullets 18x9/10s/Nitto 255/45&295/45
Tillman Dyno Tune 307HP/322TQ
Very good info as always... But Ford recommends that you do not pressure bleed our system do to the anti-lock system. If you don't have it then your golden. If you do you need to use a evac type system... As for Fords manual.
I looked at my Manual before I did this and it says the following regarding bleeding (under section 2006-00-17):
"The hydraulic system [i.e., brake system] can be bled manually or with pressure bleeding equipment".
As such, I assumed there was - and is - no issue from pressure bleeding. I know that I've had no check lights since doing the bleeding uising my pressure bleeder.
The only thing I can tell you is that I have had no check lights whatsoever and have the same - if not greater - level of braking as before.
Thats great because I was thinking of changing my brake fluid and was trying to decide on how to best to do it...But you know with my luck it will probable happen to me...
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07 REDFIRE GT 5 SPEED 3.55 gears
C&L Racer CAI XCAL2/Seq signals/GTAs/Steeda UDP/CHE K Member Brace W/Torq Links/J&M LCA/Spider DS/PRO.50 Shifter Hurst handle & "T"/Meziere EO2/ARH LT catted H /Prothane MM/Delet Plates/SLP BOSS 429 Scoop/Accel COP/PowerSlot/Hawk Pads/Tokico D-Spec/CHE Panhard Bar Brace/Steeda Adj. Panhard Bar/BMR F/R Sway Bars/Cervini ducktail spoiler/BMR UCA Mount/CHE UCA/GT\CS Rear Cover/AMChrome Bullets 18x9/10s/Nitto 255/45&295/45
Tillman Dyno Tune 307HP/322TQ
Thats great because I was thinking of changing my brake fluid and was trying to decide on how to best to do it...But you know with my luck it will probable happen to me...
I'd highly recommend it Drew - mine was an absolute dream come true to do, especially after trying to do the evac method and having to constantly check it to make certain the reservoir wasn't emptying. That alone was worth the $60 to me.
Just to be certain though you might want to call te dealership to confirm that your model year can be pressure bled (I have an '08 and it may be different for prior years).
I like this idea. I have always hated calling my wife out to help bleed brakes. For some reason, she never could quite get the concept of what I needed and would usually let off the brake too early on one wheel or the other.... lol.
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Victor
2007 Foose Stallion "The Prowler"
FRPP Polished Whipple SC - 8lb boost, FRPP Hot Rod Cams (M-6550-3V), FRPP Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers, FRPP Tuned Racing Suspension, FRPP Tuned Racing Exhaust, FRPP Axle Back, Steeda TriAx, Nexus Series - AFM, Vac/Boost, Fuel Pressure, Speed of Sound Dash Pod, Raptor Blue LED Shift Light. 425 RWHP 387 TQ
I like this idea. I have always hated calling my wife out to help bleed brakes. For some reason, she never could quite get the concept of what I needed and would usually let off the brake too early on one wheel or the other.... lol.
Speed bleeders alone will stop that. I bled mine when I changed out to SS lines and Brembo LCF600 and they work flawlessly on this brake system. No help needed. I just used a $5 resevoir with tube that I got at Autozone and pumped the brakes as usual.
This looks like an interesting tool for $60, but is putting that pressure directly on top of the master cylinder a good idea ? I dunno...
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It's better to burn out than to fade away - The Kurgan
I'd highly recommend it Drew - mine was an absolute dream come true to do, especially after trying to do the evac method and having to constantly check it to make certain the reservoir wasn't emptying. That alone was worth the $60 to me.
Just to be certain though you might want to call te dealership to confirm that your model year can be pressure bled (I have an '08 and it may be different for prior years).
I have the service DVD so I'll look at that just to be sure. What model did you get?? I could also go with lower pressure also. I did want to replace the speed bleeders.
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07 REDFIRE GT 5 SPEED 3.55 gears
C&L Racer CAI XCAL2/Seq signals/GTAs/Steeda UDP/CHE K Member Brace W/Torq Links/J&M LCA/Spider DS/PRO.50 Shifter Hurst handle & "T"/Meziere EO2/ARH LT catted H /Prothane MM/Delet Plates/SLP BOSS 429 Scoop/Accel COP/PowerSlot/Hawk Pads/Tokico D-Spec/CHE Panhard Bar Brace/Steeda Adj. Panhard Bar/BMR F/R Sway Bars/Cervini ducktail spoiler/BMR UCA Mount/CHE UCA/GT\CS Rear Cover/AMChrome Bullets 18x9/10s/Nitto 255/45&295/45
Tillman Dyno Tune 307HP/322TQ
I have the service DVD so I'll look at that just to be sure. What model did you get?? I could also go with lower pressure also. I did want to replace the speed bleeders.
Let me know what you find,as i have the speed bleeders and s/s hoses ready,i was just waiting for a pleasure bleeder and didnt know where to get one.Thank you
I got the 1108 Motive - its the one you want, NOT the 1107.
As to "pumping up the pressure on the master cylinder", I didn't have any issue with attaching the adapter to the reservoir and pumping it to 20 p.s.i. although I would recommend that you use the thicker of the two "pads" that come with the adapter to make certain you get a good seal.
Do be careful when you finish and take the attachment to the master cylinder off as it will be completely full and could spill if you aren't. What I did was to wrap the area around the master cylinder first so nothing would spill (especially on the driver's side exhaust header, which is right below).
Also, you may want to wrap the brake line bleeders - I used Russells - with teflon tape to be absolutely certain you have a good seal on them.