Found out from a friend that MMR overbores theyre blocks .30 or over 30k, however people say it. his block eneded up being messed up and had to get a new one without reimbersment. pretty bad situation. I forget the rules on pasting another forum blog here so I'll wait until one of the site guruus takes a look in here and gives me the okay. When i saw this, i mainly got conerned cause theres a few ppl i know on here that has a MMR block, mainly Tached Out. They basically told him they bore it out to that much to prevent rust. wtf? dont they use aluminum blocks? lol.
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"To be yourself in a world that is constantly trying to make you something else is the greatest accomplishment" -Ralph Waldo Emerson
isnt boring the motor .030 bad? i heard something abotu leaving too much room for the pistons to mess up of some sort. The guy from MMR said they bore all their motors to that setting, and that was my main concern over it. If its alright, then no sweat.
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"To be yourself in a world that is constantly trying to make you something else is the greatest accomplishment" -Ralph Waldo Emerson
Don't know anything about car mechanics. Only know had MMR block in the car for quite a while. It's doing fine, no issues. Car is driven speed limit on the street (never street raced) but pushed quite hard at the strip. Been using 20lbs boost for a while during intense summer heat. Not been to track in 6 weeks and not going back for another 3 or until some cooler air gets down this way. Just too uncomfortable. Car has 6 passes at 10.5 and 6 at 10.6 ETs, so it's real consistent. Had lots of other issues (mostly fuel) but not motor.
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06GT, being rebuilt for dragracing only 2008 race season, 10.0 at 136 mph, 1/4
the issue the OP refers to is compounded by the fact that the buyer of said block paid for a new aluminum block. FWIW - from my understanding there should be no need to overbore a new aluminum block
the issue the OP refers to is compounded by the fact that the buyer of said block paid for a new aluminum block. FWIW - from my understanding there should be no need to overbore a new aluminum block
Every engine shop no matter how good has a few unhappy customers that think they got screwed. Conversely every good engine shop has a WHOLE BUNCH of customers that have screwed them.
Being a high performance engine builder is a tough racket. I used to own a company that built 100% race motors, they never saw the street. Of course we were not perfect all the time, but when we did make a mistake we would step up to the pump and make what needed to happen, happen. But still, there were a few who thought that we screwed them. It’s a tough line to define but there has to be a point where the buyer has the responsibility.
Not that the above has anything to do with MMR and a .030 overbore. Of course I don’t know the specifics, but it sounds to me like someone paid for a new block and MMR put a 030 overbore on it. So. Just about every high performance engine gets an overbore, re-sleeved or re-nikasiled. When machining the block the tolerances of the engine builder will be a lot more exact than what Ford puts out for example. That’s what the difference between a stock motor and one that has been blueprinted. Sometimes to achieve a “square” block (bores, crank centerline, etc are all square to each other) sometimes you need to do a bore job. In some cases you will probably find that all of a particular engine will need one. Maybe MMR just does it as part of their SOP. It wouldn’t surprise me.
If MMR has done a .030 overbore on this guys “new” block and he has not had an engine failure I say too bad. I’m pretty sure MMR knows a bit more about what that block needed than him. If he has had an engine failure and it can be directly traced to a overbore “problem” it’s on MMR’s plate. In my eyes it’s pretty clear.
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Maybe MMR just does it as part of their SOP. It wouldn’t surprise me.
apparently they do..... but done disclose such....
and as I understand it, if you do need a rebuild later (the referenced owner did) there is not much room to overbore a second time. In this case he had to buy a new block (again)
Quote:
Originally Posted by sqidd
If MMR has done a .030 overbore on this guys “new” block and he has not had an engine failure I say too bad. I’m pretty sure MMR knows a bit more about what that block needed than him. If he has had an engine failure and it can be directly traced to a overbore “problem” it’s on MMR’s plate. In my eyes it’s pretty clear.
he did have issues....
they are not stepping up to the "pump" as you put it. and have (from what I read from the posts) been less then responsive to his calls from the start.
apparently they do..... but done disclose such....
and as I understand it, if you do need a rebuild later (the referenced owner did) there is not much room to overbore a second time. In this case he had to buy a new block (again)
he did have issues....
they are not stepping up to the "pump" as you put it. and have (from what I read from the posts) been less then responsive to his calls from the start.
Disclose? Why would an engine builder need to disclose anything? If a customer walks through the door and says "build me a motor", well that's what they get. They get their "standard" motor. If they want something specific or out of the ordinary it's for the customers to bring it up. If the customer is not aware of the "situation" then too bad. What is the motor builder supposed to do? Give the customer a list that is 1000 operations long that comeletely outlines the rebuild, explain every line item and have them sign it? Not a chance.
So what failure did the .030 bore cause? Aside from a cracked block, most likely into the water jacket I can't think of what overboring a motor could "cause"
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your more knowledgeable then I in this venue, so explain to me this, as I truly don't understand, if you buy and motor and pay extra for a "new" block why would it need to be bored out?
the over bore did not cause a issue, he had a issue with a bad tune and some issue with two cylinders. When they went to do a rebuild, it was discovered that the block had already been overbored, and the shop stated it could not bore it out again, and a second block would be needed. IIRC - an added bore out would make the walls too thin(?)
your more knowledgeable then I in this venue, so explain to me this, as I truly don't understand, if you buy and motor and pay extra for a "new" block why would it need to be bored out?
An engine builder may find it necessary to perform operations such as align honing, deck squaring and cylinder boring to get things like the decks, crankshaft bearings and cylinders “square”. One persons definition of square may not be another’s. I am sure Ford has much larger tolerances that they find acceptable than a good motor shop.
To square everything up it may be necessary to bore the block because as cast/as machined the bores are crooked. To make them straight and square you need to make them bigger, there is no other way. I think just about anyone who knows anything about high end engine building will tell you that you would rather have a “square” block than one that can be bored again.
And who the hell has an engine built with a thought toward the next time it will need to be? No one. It was only a problem that the bores were .030 over when the customer found out that he was going to need another block because of an unrelated problem. The same thinking would say that you shouldn’t run a high lift cam because if a rod bearing goes bad you may smack the valve with the piston. You don’t build “race” motors to survive failures. You build race motors to prevent them.
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Under Construction. Better, Stronger, Faster than it was before.
An engine builder may find it necessary to perform operations such as align honing, deck squaring and cylinder boring to get things like the decks, crankshaft bearings and cylinders “square”. One persons definition of square may not be another’s. I am sure Ford has much larger tolerances that they find acceptable than a good motor shop.
To square everything up it may be necessary to bore the block because as cast/as machined the bores are crooked. To make them straight and square you need to make them bigger, there is no other way. I think just about anyone who knows anything about high end engine building will tell you that you would rather have a “square” block than one that can be bored again.
And who the hell has an engine built with a thought toward the next time it will need to be? No one. It was only a problem that the bores were .030 over when the customer found out that he was going to need another block because of an unrelated problem. The same thinking would say that you shouldn’t run a high lift cam because if a rod bearing goes bad you may smack the valve with the piston. You don’t build “race” motors to survive failures. You build race motors to prevent them.
Actually, it's a pretty common practice with race engines to leave room for freshen ups in the bores.
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07 GT premium in Grabber Orange. 5spd. manual w/IUP, plenum cover,3.55's, Roush scoop, 14" antenna, C&L CAI, Bamachips 93 Predator tune, Steeda U/D pulleys, Hurst shifter, FRPP GTA's, CDC chin spoiler, CHE LCA, BMR panhard bar, Eibach Pro Kit. FRPP 17" black bullitts and 255R45 Firestones, Spydershaft aluminum driveshaft, MSD coils, D-Specs, Prothane motor mounts, BMR LCA brace, Steeda panhard brace, BMR adj. UCA, Webelectric sequentials, Mikronited FRPP 4.10's.
Actually, it's a pretty common practice with race engines to leave room for freshen ups in the bores.
+1
Its pretty stupìd to overbore that much if its a new block.
Maybe thats their way to do business, you screw your block, send it back to repair and you get the awesome news that you need a new block ! bye bye another good bunch of money for a very simple and easy way to avoid that.
Besides, whats the point in overboring to 0.030 when its NEW ? when I thought doing 0.020 might be to much ...
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Found out MMR isnt so good. 
