Pulleys really dont do much. Dont expect to really get any gain from them. When they were installed on my friends ride he dynoed 282rwhp and the week before is when he got his intake on and dynoed at 281rwhp and the dyno charts where near identical in comparison.
After doing this we thought we would mess with him sense I am against them and uninstall them to see if he noticed. He went 2 months with out them before he noticed when he popped his hood. So much to say they were sold on Ebay.
If you take the money on a set of LCU and Pullys and take them to the track doing LCU's will make your car run a faster 1/4
Pullys to me and TB's are a huge waste of money.
TB's are good only if you are pushing a TS blower or a high powered motor with engine work.
If you want a faster car build up your rear suspension and get your self a drive shaft.
The weight reductions will do more for your performance then any other mickey mouse bolt on you can find.
If you have the time and money do LT's and an O/R Pipe.
Save your money and honestly get a better intake. Get a JLT and a custom dyno tune and you will smoke any GT on the street with basic bolt ons. Or call Doug from Bama Tunes and have him send you a tune.
He makes great NA tunes other then that the only way your going to see a differnce in your car is with nitrous, SC or Engine work the next best thing is weight reductions and suspension.
Just doing rear suspension took off .8 seconds off my 1/4
the underdrive pulley is what am taknig with the delete plates and ill head to the LT after that.
and the last thing will be the COMP cams.
i think that this is the best thing to do.
If you do cams after you do your headers you should also do head work as well. get some port and polish work done sense you will need to replace your valves and springs with the more aggressive cam.
Also with that much added power bigger injectors and fuel pumps will help give you more power on the tune. Thats going allow you to get a more aggressive tune and be safe still with the more fuel.
Also I dont think any one mentioned the best mod to get really is your gears
If you do cams after you do your headers you should also do head work as well. get some port and polish work done sense you will need to replace your valves and springs with the more aggressive cam.
Also with that much added power bigger injectors and fuel pumps will help give you more power on the tune. Thats going allow you to get a more aggressive tune and be safe still with the more fuel.
Also I dont think any one mentioned the best mod to get really is your gears
I mentioned gears that was number 1 on my post on page 1. Oh what the heck is a LCU. Do you mean LCA? Long tube headers helped me. I got the Kooks LT`S ,and off road X pipe. I added the Steeda radiator support which took some weight off the front end.The 1 piece Power House which was number 2 on my previouse post helped. The LCA`S and relocation brackets,with the adjustable UCA helped get the power to the ground.That was number 3 .
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Airraid CAI/BAMA tune,moto blue pullies,3:73`s,LPW girdle;Powerhouse DS,CHE safety loop,CHE LCA`S & Adjustable UCA,Kooks LT`S & O/R X Pipe,prothane MM`s,Steeda CMDP`S,Eibach springs,Tokico D specs,Polished TB(by Me),Steeda radiator support,MT DR`S,Zex kit 100 shot. Taylor Relocation batter kit and cut off switch
11:933 ET, 1.674 60`,111.877 MPH 5600 feet above sea level 6900 D/A
I have 410's and Boomtubes and just last week added stainless kooks lts,catted H,C&L CAI with sctx3 and 93 race tune from Bama.....let me tell you,it is like night and day! She pulls harder sounds awesome and just a blast to drive! I fell in love all over again with "Shandra" Do the lts and mid pipe....dont think just do it! :b igthumbsup
If it wasn't for higher HP cars needing ported head that to me is the biggest wast of money and I would have to disagree with STLWAGON that cams alone are not worth it 30-35RWHP with good tune for about 750-800 installed yourself verses getting cams for that amount and heads for $1500 a piece with adds up to over $3800 for what a whopping 50-80RWHP how does that make since, not many people get stage 3+ cams that needs phasers and spings anyway and end up wasting money.
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2008 Mustang GT,125 NX Shot,3.73 gears,LFP aluminum Drivshaft,JLT INTAKE,BBK LT HEADERS AND H-PIPE,Ford Racing Rear Exaust,Steeda strut,93 Octane Street Tune from TillmanSpeed,93 Octane NOS Race Tune from Tillman Speed,B&M LCA, WOT Box, Comp Engineering 3 way adjustable rear shocks
Best ET 12.16 @ 117
upcoming MODS- C&L intake Manifold or FRPP Intake Manifold, STAGE 2 XFI™ SPR comp cams
(Mods in profile)
