hey there.
Swapped out my clutch yesterday for a SPEC stage 2, replaced the pilot bearing and the slave cylinder. A real PITA of a job, took 14 hours! Anyway, i am having real trouble bleeding the system, some advice would be very welcome.
I have tried the ford service manual approach (correct me if i am wrong) which is to apply a 20 Hg vaccuum at the brake fluid resoviour. And also the jacking the car up on the drivers side and pumping the clutch, however i cant seem to get all the air out of the lines If anyone can let me know what im doing wrong, or how to do it correctly, i would be very grateful.
granted, this is my first go around with a hydraulic clutch, and i havent looked at mine, but if it doesnt have some sort of bleeder screw, (which im guessing it doesnt, hince fords "jack it up approach") then the only other way to bleed it is to jack up the drivers side enough that the fluid goes to one side of the master cylinder, exposing the hole for the line in. then pumping the clutch should expell the air. did you remove the master cylinder cover? it could be holding just enough pressure to keep you from forcing out the air. also make sure that the line in hole is not completely uncovered, b/c i could see some air sucking back in when you let off the clutch. in fact, when you let of the clutch after each pump, id do it real slowly. again, im just guessing here. surely someone on here has bled thiers.
If there was a leak (a possibility - nasty, but possible) Surely there would be some fluid coming from the seal? Im concerned, because when fitting the transmission back, the connector is pretty exposed and may have been a bit crushed between the transmission and the body (not much room there!! ) However there is not any fluid leaking so im guessing its ok? or maybe im wrong?
UPDATE. For anyone who maybe had the same trouble, and followed this thread - After a week and the clutch is fine, solid as a rock. It did take a few days it seems for all the air to come out, but it certainly did seem to 'self bleed'.
Much happier with the stage 2, although im not really noticing *much* difference from stock. It is a bit sharper and so it does requires better clutch control to pull away.
Only downside - i seem to have developed a very minor vibration at 1.5k rpm, when accellerating on the highway - no big deal, but i wonder what the heck i did to cause it!
UPDATE. For anyone who maybe had the same trouble, and followed this thread - After a week and the clutch is fine, solid as a rock. It did take a few days it seems for all the air to come out, but it certainly did seem to 'self bleed'.
Much happier with the stage 2, although im not really noticing *much* difference from stock. It is a bit sharper and so it does requires better clutch control to pull away.
Only downside - i seem to have developed a very minor vibration at 1.5k rpm, when accellerating on the highway - no big deal, but i wonder what the heck i did to cause it!
Hey - i amost forgot about this thread. Yes, Flywheel was replaced with a brand new one (steel).. since replacing the rear gears to 4:10 the minor vibration has almost completely gone away, so must be somehow related to the load on the engine (4:10 gears - hence less load for the same accelleration)
Years ago, I replaced the clutch in a Ford diesel pickup, with hydraulic clutch. Somehow during the install, I pressed the clutch pedal, and blew out the slave cylinder piston, and introduced air into the system, at that time, the clutch master and slave cylinder were a one piece system, the hydraulick line was crimped on, and no bleeder screw. I spent two hours pressing and releasing the clutch to bleed the air out of the system. I would have thought Ford changed that.
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1989 2.3 Stealth Red (old cheap paint) LX Hatchback
2007 4.0 Torch Red Coupe
Years ago, I replaced the clutch in a Ford diesel pickup, with hydraulic clutch. Somehow during the install, I pressed the clutch pedal, and blew out the slave cylinder piston, and introduced air into the system, at that time, the clutch master and slave cylinder were a one piece system, the hydraulick line was crimped on, and no bleeder screw. I spent two hours pressing and releasing the clutch to bleed the air out of the system. I would have thought Ford changed that.
There is a bleeder underneath but it is not easy to get to. easier to bleed from the master cylinder.