Why not? It's more cost effective than longtubes which net about the same HP. A good set of longtubes is going to run the same price with much more intensive labor involved(and higher labor cost). Either way I'd get a dyno tune so to me they are equal mods but I get the sound with the cams.
Yeah, I suppose. But sound is last on the list for me when it comes to mods. If I wanted a good sound, I would have kept the cast iron manifolds on my car.
I have Thumpers stage 2 in my car,the computer just gave me code p0021.Anybody knows what it is,or how to fix it?
Variable Cam control, Bank 2, timing over advanced.
I suspect you have phaser limiters and all your al tables ARE set for maximum advance of 20º Advance.
The ECU is advancing the cams past what they were calibration limited to. When it can it gets po'd and gives you the P0021. More or less, the limiters are not limiting enough.
Or, the cams did not adapt on start up. You could clear the code, leave the battery off for a couple hours and restart it. Allow it to idle for about 10 minutes.
Lastly, poor quality oil, and the ECU can not control the cam phasers due to large pressure fluctuations.
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2006 Legend Lime GT: Samco, Metco, LPW, Brembo 6 pot brakes with floating rotors, Magnacharger with 8-Rib, LubeLocker, Royal Purple, FR500S front end, APR Performance Carbon Fiber Rear Wing, Roll bar, 10 qt upgraded oil system...Thank you Capaldi Racing for all your help! 2007 Mustang GT/CS : Wife's Car, Magnacharged too. 1966 Mustang GT-K Code Coupe: Restored
Variable Cam control, Bank 2, timing over advanced.
I suspect you have phaser limiters and all your al tables ARE set for maximum advance of 20º Advance.
The ECU is advancing the cams past what they were calibration limited to. When it can it gets po'd and gives you the P0021. More or less, the limiters are not limiting enough.
Or, the cams did not adapt on start up. You could clear the code, leave the battery off for a couple hours and restart it. Allow it to idle for about 10 minutes.
Lastly, poor quality oil, and the ECU can not control the cam phasers due to large pressure fluctuations.
Thank you for your answer,when you said BANK 2 are you referring to the driver's side or passenger side?.I also e-mailed Doug at bama since i have his tune.Meanwhile i'll take the battery off.
I agree, i would love to put the NSR cams in ( need to talk to Alternative auto) for his opinion on them with the nitrous.I love the old school sound and would gladly pay for it. As for more hp, just up the shot and new dynotune.
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2006 Mustang GT. CDC classic chin spoiler,Off road x , FRPP GTA axlebacks,Tunable Induction CAI,SCTtuner. FRPP 3.73 gear,Rear window louver,Qtr window louvers.CDC shaker hood,M&H drag radials, and ZEX 125 shot nitrous for insurance!
Best ET to date- 11.89 @ 114 mph
390 rwhp
520 rwtq
No more Nitrous all motor now.Don't ask.
Please post the info you find out about nsr cams and nitrous because I think right nowI going to go N/A with nitrous instead of blower for now because of finacial limitations.
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2008 Mustang GT,125 NX Shot,3.73 gears,LFP aluminum Drivshaft,JLT INTAKE,BBK LT HEADERS AND H-PIPE,Ford Racing Rear Exaust,Steeda strut,93 Octane Street Tune from TillmanSpeed,93 Octane NOS Race Tune from Tillman Speed,B&M LCA, WOT Box, Comp Engineering 3 way adjustable rear shocks
Best ET 12.16 @ 117
upcoming MODS- C&L intake Manifold or FRPP Intake Manifold, STAGE 2 XFI™ SPR comp cams
I have Thumpers stage 2 in my car,the computer just gave me code p0021.Anybody knows what it is,or how to fix it?
Doug came trough as usual,today i received the new tune to take care of code p0021 and from the minute that i started the engine you could tell that this tune is an as-- kicker,the idle is around 900 rpm's and as 60's sound as possible with a very wicked sound.Thank you Doug
george - you can probably drop that idle RPM back to around 750 to 800 without any adverse effect and get more lope out of it assuming that you want the old school cam sound. My tunes came at about 875 and I dropped them back without any problem. I ran 750 with the Hot Rod Cams N/A and 800 with the Hot Rod Cams with a twin screw Whipple.
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Victor
2007 Foose Stallion "The Prowler"
FRPP Polished Whipple SC - 8lb boost, FRPP Hot Rod Cams (M-6550-3V), FRPP Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers, FRPP Tuned Racing Suspension, FRPP Tuned Racing Exhaust, FRPP Axle Back, Steeda TriAx, Nexus Series - AFM, Vac/Boost, Fuel Pressure, Speed of Sound Dash Pod, Raptor Blue LED Shift Light. 425 RWHP 387 TQ
george - you can probably drop that idle RPM back to around 750 to 800 without any adverse effect and get more lope out of it assuming that you want the old school cam sound. My tunes came at about 875 and I dropped them back without any problem. I ran 750 with the Hot Rod Cams N/A and 800 with the Hot Rod Cams with a twin screw Whipple.
Idle is ok,apparently that 900 rpm's was with the engine cold right after i installed the tune.I just got back from the interstate and the idle is at 750,lots of power!! Good lope..
Hey I contacted Comp cams which provide the NSR cams and they said it is safe to spray a up to a 200 shot of nitrous with the NSR cams incase anyone is interested. And you guys that bought the thumpr cams why would you pay over $800 for the sound just my thoughts my logic behind the NSR cams is to get 30RWHP for the price of about $600 on sale. and I am installing them so that's not bad. just incase you ask.
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2008 Mustang GT,125 NX Shot,3.73 gears,LFP aluminum Drivshaft,JLT INTAKE,BBK LT HEADERS AND H-PIPE,Ford Racing Rear Exaust,Steeda strut,93 Octane Street Tune from TillmanSpeed,93 Octane NOS Race Tune from Tillman Speed,B&M LCA, WOT Box, Comp Engineering 3 way adjustable rear shocks
Best ET 12.16 @ 117
upcoming MODS- C&L intake Manifold or FRPP Intake Manifold, STAGE 2 XFI™ SPR comp cams
Idle is ok,apparently that 900 rpm's was with the engine cold right after i installed the tune.I just got back from the interstate and the idle is at 750,lots of power!! Good lope..
The lower you go with the idle, the better the lope sound. I have my hot rods set at 740. I have been thinking about trying lower, but I'm not sure how low is too low.
The lower you go with the idle, the better the lope sound. I have my hot rods set at 740. I have been thinking about trying lower, but I'm not sure how low is too low.
I don't know either,but you don't want to go so low that the engine may die on you,or the alternator wont charge the batt..
The lower you go with the idle, the better the lope sound. I have my hot rods set at 740. I have been thinking about trying lower, but I'm not sure how low is too low.
With the old hot rods, I agree. With these late model mustangs, I am not sure we can go much lower. What typically happens with these cams is when you first press the clutch in to come to a stop, the idle will drop lower than the set point and then the computer will compensate by trying to bring it to the set point, often bouncing slightly a couple of times until it settles. I also have noticed a very slight difference in this cycle on very high humidity days (fog). The RPM drops initially a couple of hundred additional RPMs on the first drop. It does not happen always, just occasionally. (May be just my car.)
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Victor
2007 Foose Stallion "The Prowler"
FRPP Polished Whipple SC - 8lb boost, FRPP Hot Rod Cams (M-6550-3V), FRPP Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers, FRPP Tuned Racing Suspension, FRPP Tuned Racing Exhaust, FRPP Axle Back, Steeda TriAx, Nexus Series - AFM, Vac/Boost, Fuel Pressure, Speed of Sound Dash Pod, Raptor Blue LED Shift Light. 425 RWHP 387 TQ
code p0021 
all motor now.Don't ask.
