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Old 01-06-2009   #16 (permalink)
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you wont fit a 4" over the axles only way to pull that off would be to do a cutout ...ive ran mine straight pipe for a while and in all honesty it was too loud even for this 25 year old lol and basicly it sounded like garbage if you wanna do a straight pipe setup do a 2.5" unless you have some kind of f/i otherwise its pointless id do an offroad h pipe with some race mufflers in the midpipes
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Old 01-07-2009   #17 (permalink)
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i believe 4 inches would affect that because you arent running a heavily boosted application if you look at a big diesel truck they run sometimes 50psi on their turbos so a 4inch would be a no brainer there. and actually ive heard the stock exhaust like stock mufflers and such is good up to 400hp. so blowing the pipes out another inch and half isnt going to suck the exhaust out of the cylinders. and the cut outs with the modular motors again its the same principal the exhaust is the length it is so it can properly get exhaust out of the engine. ive heard if you run open headers you can basically fry your exhaust valves and not to mention lose torque.
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Old 01-08-2009   #18 (permalink)
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I have cutouts and muffler deletes and it is a bit tinny at WOT. I'll be installing the FRPP cams within a couple weeks and I'll post a video of how it sounds when I'm done if you still haven't made up your mind.
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Old 01-08-2009   #19 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info 06281GT, I didn't know that. I'll think about 3.5 vs. cutouts.

And TheKurgan, do you have an x or h, offroad or not? I was thinking my offroad x would probably sound tinny like you said.
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Old 01-08-2009   #20 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by JeeOweDee View Post
Thanks for the info 06281GT, I didn't know that. I'll think about 3.5 vs. cutouts.

And TheKurgan, do you have an x or h, offroad or not? I was thinking my offroad x would probably sound tinny like you said.
I have an X-pipe but I still have the stock cats too. I like it at idle with the cutouts open though. The main reason I got cutouts is so that cars at the dragstrip running straight headers would not drown me out.
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Old 01-08-2009   #21 (permalink)
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Hehe. My cams came in today. I'm going to be doing them myself tomorrow. I just have a few questions about them..

I've been told that I don't need new phaser bolts when putting in my limiters, but the comp cams instructions tell me I need to. Just want to know who is right.

I've read over a few installs online, and they aren't all the same. What is the easiest way to do it? I don't have either of fords tools, and know I don't need them, although they will make things easier. My local shop says they take the entire timing chain off instead of using the wedge. What's easiest if I don't have the wedge? should I make my own wedge?
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Old 01-08-2009   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeeOweDee View Post
Hehe. My cams came in today. I'm going to be doing them myself tomorrow. I just have a few questions about them..

I've been told that I don't need new phaser bolts when putting in my limiters, but the comp cams instructions tell me I need to. Just want to know who is right.

I've read over a few installs online, and they aren't all the same. What is the easiest way to do it? I don't have either of fords tools, and know I don't need them, although they will make things easier. My local shop says they take the entire timing chain off instead of using the wedge. What's easiest if I don't have the wedge? should I make my own wedge?
You will need new phaser bolts. They are one-time use.

I am breaking down and buying the timing chain wedge tool. If you don't use the wedge then you'll have to pull the front cover which will not be fun. You can get it here for $90 -

SPX Motorcraft | Detail

I'm not getting the valve spring compressor as others have claimed they did it without that tool...apparently you just compress the claimed springs by just bolting down the cam until the bearings are flush and then torque the bolts down in order. At least that is the way I have interpretted it.
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Old 01-08-2009   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheKurgan View Post
You will need new phaser bolts. They are one-time use.

I am breaking down and buying the timing chain wedge tool. If you don't use the wedge then you'll have to pull the front cover which will not be fun. You can get it here for $90 -

SPX Motorcraft | Detail

I'm not getting the valve spring compressor as others have claimed they did it without that tool...apparently you just compress the claimed springs by just bolting down the cam until the bearings are flush and then torque the bolts down in order. At least that is the way I have interpretted it.
I'm just gonna go ahead and make my own. Just a block of wood with a steel rod. There are dimensions somewhere on the internet.
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Old 01-08-2009   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeeOweDee View Post
I'm just gonna go ahead and make my own. Just a block of wood with a steel rod. There are dimensions somewhere on the internet.
I think you need to add some rubber or something around the wood because wood might not grab the chain good enough. If you find the Dimensions then please post because I have searched everywhere and have not found them. Normally I would just make one myself too but I'm getting lazier with age.
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Old 01-09-2009   #25 (permalink)
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Of course now that I'm about to finally install the cams, I can't find it anywhere online. I guess I'll just have a friend hold the timing chain for me lol.
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