[Sleeperstang07]

sorry to wake up this thread but I have a few questions pertaining to the topic. First which of the angle finders are you taking the angle measurement from the one in the front on the driveshaft or the one behind that? also How difficult is it to install the LCAs, UCA, and some anti squat brackets. I just bought some CHE ones and need to know if I can do it myself or if I should take it to a shop?

[bigwilly43729]

Originally Posted by Sleeperstang07

sorry to wake up this thread but I have a few questions pertaining to the topic. First which of the angle finders are you taking the angle measurement from the one in the front on the driveshaft or the one behind that? also How difficult is it to install the LCAs, UCA, and some anti squat brackets. I just bought some CHE ones and need to know if I can do it myself or if I should take it to a shop?

This is an acceptable angle finder; very similar to what I use: Swanson Tool Company at Lowe's: Magnetic Angle Finder

You will need basic tools: jack, jackstands, torque wrench, breaker bar or impact wrench and likely a dremmel. Not difficult installs in your garage. Just follow the directions and you'll be fine.

[sqidd]

I was reading the intructions on cherod.com. It says to adjust the pinion angle to be paralel to the trans flange... does this mean if the trans flange is at a perfect 90 degree angle that the pinion should also be at a 90 degree angle???

Yes

Thats for a racing bushings set up I know...thats not what I'm running.

You set them up paralel so the vibrations caused by the U-joint at one end speeding up and slowing down once per revolution get canceled out by the other U-joint at the other end which will be speeding up and slowing down but opposie. It's called U-joint Phasing.

This link explains it in detail:
The Rodding Roundtable - Driveline Angles Explained

But you gotta start there then add in a couple negative degrees. But I wanna get them paralel first.

You are looking at what a “negative” pinion angle is completely wrong. You are not trying to achieve a negative angle between the trans output and the pinion shaft. You want to have a negative angle when comparing the driveshaft angle and the pinion angle. For example, if you have a 2.2deg “down” angle at the trans output (which is about what it will be with the car sitting on all four wheels) and a 2.2deg “up” angle at the pinion they will be parallel. But the driveshaft will not be at 2.2deg angle. You want to compare the driveshaft angle to the pinion angle and the difference between the two is your negative pinion angle. I think I ended up with 2.2 at the trans, 3.6 at the driveshaft ad 2.2 at the pinion which has a net result of a -1.4deg pinion angle.

Maybe there will be easy to understand instructions with the dynotech when it gets here.

Unlikely

But I got the old one out and it would be nice to get the angles down before it gets here so I can just bolt the thing in. HELP...very anxious.

The only way that I could get mine up in the air and eliminate chassis flex (which is enough all by itself to screw your measurements up) was to get the rear wheels on ramps without it being in gear or with the parking brake on (it needs to be able to roll to free the axle up so it will sit at it’s ride height). And the front needed to be jacked up by the center of the k-member and jackstads placed on either side of the jack so they were both in the middle of the K-member. If you attempt to put the jackstands under the A-arms the suspension will bind while being lowered on to them and if you put the jackstands under where the front unibody bolts to the main tub it will flex so much that you will not be able to get a accurate trans output angle (the front droops more than 1deg). Then after you measure everything you have to get the rear of the car up in the air higher, which will let the axle hang down so you have enough room to adjust the UCA. Then comes the hardest part, you need to lower the car back down to load the axle up to ride height again and exactly replicate all of the angles, ride heights, etc as the first time you measured it to check your work.

If you have access to a drive on lift it is a whole lot easier, but you still need to be able to jack the back of the car up to let the axle hang down so you have clearance to adjust it.

Have fun