[TAJoerg]

The thread title is pretty self explanitory. My friend has an 08 GT running on the bottle, and can't hook to save his life. He is upgrading the rubber to some Mickey Thompson E/T street 2's out back, but if anyone has experienced significant improvement with upgraded Lower Rear Control Arms it definatly can't hurt. Just looking for anyones educated opinion who has run/installed/tested higher performance Lower Rear Control Arms.

[BKid]

You need the whole package. The lca`s,uca, and anti sqaut brackets welded in. Yea it will help and you will feel the difference,so will the ET`S.

[Protree750]

Lakewood Lower Control arms, Id get lakewood drag shocks as well

[shifter87]

I have the J&M lowers and will be getting the uppers soon. They are a site sponsor check them out on the right.

[BKid]

Brenspeed has the Che products,and they are a site sponsor. You only have 1 upper control arm.

[sqidd]

The most expensive ones that you can afford with urethane ends. You don’t want solid mounts.

You can’t go wrong with the billet aluminum ones.

[stkjock]

is his car lowered?

[stlwagon]

I really like what BMR has done with theirLCAs. Boxed LCAs are a little stronger than cylindrical.

http://bmrfabrication.com/05Mustang/05MustLCA.jpg

I've run CHE poly-poly LCAs for two years with no problems.

[TAJoerg]

Originally Posted by stkjock

is his car lowered?

nope he has it stock for now

[bbutte]

Originally Posted by stlwagon

I really like what BMR has done with theirLCAs. Boxed LCAs are a little stronger than cylindrical.

http://bmrfabrication.com/05Mustang/05MustLCA.jpg

I've run CHE poly-poly LCAs for two years with no problems.

Recently installed BMR lowers (adjustable) with relocation brackets. Install was a breeze (floor jack and jack stands) and really could have been done faster than the 2hrs it took me. Instructions leave a bit to be desired but all can be figured out.

Got brackets & arms for what I think is a good price at stangsuspension.com

[KlrStng]

By adding the relocation brackets, you can lower the axle end of the control arms and redirect the power to the ground a little better on launch. If the car is squatting when you launch, the body is actually lifting up on the axle and you get less traction. If the back end goes up on launch then you are pushing the axle down, which is what you want. From the factory your contol arms are neutral and you should see a little squat.

The arms themselves have soft bushings and are made from stamped steel, so they can flex a little and allow the pinion angle to change on launch, all leading to wheel hop. The stronger control arms and stiffer bushings are effective at eliminating the wheel hop, and the relocation brackets are what can give you better traction.

For a race only application getting solid bushings on both upper and lower arms, relocation brackets, and possibly an adjustable upper so you can adjust your pinion angle to zero degrees (shouldnt have any flex with all solid bushings) would be your best bet. Drag shocks would help as well. The solid bushings will make it a not so desirable ride on the street, so the compromise is poly bushings on one or both ends of the control arms.

[ShadowMaster]

Metco Motorsports billet lower arms, relocation brackets, adjustable upper arm, and upper arm body mount. 1.52 sixty foot times. No problem.

[stlwagon]

Originally Posted by bbutte

Recently installed BMR lowers (adjustable) with relocation brackets. Install was a breeze (floor jack and jack stands) and really could have been done faster than the 2hrs it took me. Instructions leave a bit to be desired but all can be figured out.

Got brackets & arms for what I think is a good price at stangsuspension.com

Get those brackets welded in if you haven't already done so.