i just hope i dont have any problems,u will get her running
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03 MUSTANG GT,4R75W KENNE BELL 2.1 S/C NON-INTERCOOLED 6PSI
36LB INJECTORS,MONO CHIP,AUTOLITE 103s
BOOST-A-PUMP,SLP LOUDMOUTH CAT-BACK
TRICKFLOW 70MM THROTTLE BODY
STOCK AIR INTAKE WITH K&N DROP IN
FORD RACING 3.73 GEARS
First I pulled the bumper back off and then pulled the pump. The bumper wasn't that big of a deal because I had to install the boost gauge anyway, which means pulling the driver side tire and wheel well anyway, and after that its just the other wheel and well, and 6 bolts and 4 screws and its off.. took about 15 minutes this time.
Once the pump was off, I plugged it in and stuck the inlet in a bucket of water, and with a little help it finally got prime and started pumping. So I knew the pump was OK. Next I put it back in and filled the reservoir with the key on. I wasn't hearing the sound the pump made when the pump was primed, so I started fiddling with the placement of the inlet hose. Nothing.
So then I unscrewed the clamp connecting the inlet to the pump, and that did the trick! It sputtered a little then suddenly had prime! I tightened everything back up and added some extra coolant to the reservoir and it is churning away in there now.
So with that fixed I got the vacuum line run for the boost gauge and put it all back together. I started it and the vacuum was at a perfect 20 hg/in, right where it should be. I let it warm up for a few minutes and backed out of the garage. On the street, I goosed it once to see the gauge reaction and I had 3 psi boost at about 1400 rpm. I waited til I was on a main road and opened it up, and the boost gauge hit 8.5 just before 2k rpm.
The engine was not really warmed up too much, and it is still about 75* outside, and it pulled pretty good.. not quite like this morning, but I was making boost with no question. I got to a point where I could drop the hammer in 2nd and when I did (about 2500 rpm) I got a ping! I don't get them on the top end, but last night it was pinging at low rpm too. That is annoying.
So I don't think I am making the low end power like I should (ie doesn't feel very torquey), and it is not only hesitating at low rpm WOT, its pinging a little too. The thing is, I have boost, I have no vacuume leaks that I can detect, or that show up at idle, I have an intercooler working now, so intake temps should be down, and I have the right MAF sensor and intake. That leaves the tune and maybe the plugs..? The plugs are HT0 at .035, but could this be a spark issue? How do the plugs react to 8.5 psi boost at 2k rpm? Maybe I need a Boost-a-Spark or some aftermarket coil packs?
I don't feel that the clutch is slipping, although it is a possibility. It just doesn't feel like its pulling hard enough to make the clutch slip. I think what I need is an accurate dyno now to see if I am putting down any power. If a dyno tells me I have around 430-450 hp, I will be satisfied and call it a day, but if it's reading 350 like my butt dyno says, then I think there is a problem somewhere.
I would love to have a shop that specializes in superchargers at my disposal, and I would have loved to have the money to let a pro install it. So far nothing I have run into was really an install problem, with perhaps the exception of not knowing the IC pump wasn't pumping. That is more an experience thing though - the water was getting hot so I figured the pump was working.
Otherwise I was happy to have the experience of putting it in myself. I learned more about this engine and this car than I ever wanted to, thats for sure.
Right now, I have the battery unhooked to try to reset the adaptive learning on the ECU. I didn't get the programmer back from KB today, so it will be next week before I can reload the tune, but it loaded successfully, and they aren't changing anything.
The only thing I can think that might help now is to datalog the system and send it to their tuner to see what is what, but the irony is I sold my SCT X3 on Tuesday so I don't have a way to datalog. I would sure like to know what my IAT sensor is reading too, just to be sure it isn't reading wrong and telling the computer to run more timing at lower RPM..
I guess I have to sleep on it some more..
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2006 GT Premium Vert, 5 spd, Tungsten Grey Show: Painted gloss black stripes, Street Scene Gen 1 body kit, side and hood scoops, CDC light bar, sequential tails, purple underglow, 8" shorty antenna, redline hood struts, Steeda Ultralights, 20" Chrome Killers, S.O.S. pillar & 3 gauges. Go: J&M LCA's & Adj. UCA, J&M Adj. Panhard, CHE LCA reloc brackets & torque limiters, 3.73 gears, Kenne Bell Stage 1 2.6l supercharger.
...440rwhp/401rwtq
I think the low end power is because you have 8psi at 2K. Thats kind of hight at that rpm. Its probable lean down there and that's why your getting some pings. Data log would be good but a dyno tune would be better. You want the dyno to optimize your tune. HP numbers don't really matter, they aren't whats important.
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07 REDFIRE GT 5 SPEED 3.55 gears
C&L Racer CAI XCAL2/Seq signals/GTAs/Steeda UDP/CHE K Member Brace W/Torq Links/J&M LCA/Spider DS/PRO.50 Shifter Hurst handle & "T"/Meziere EO2/ARH LT catted H /Prothane MM/Delet Plates/SLP BOSS 429 Scoop/Accel COP/PowerSlot/Hawk Pads/Tokico D-Spec/CHE Panhard Bar Brace/Steeda Adj. Panhard Bar/BMR F/R Sway Bars/Cervini ducktail spoiler/BMR UCA Mount/CHE UCA/GT\CS Rear Cover/AMChrome Bullets 18x9/10s/Nitto 255/45&295/45
Tillman Dyno Tune 307HP/322TQ
I don't recall the brand of programmer they sent, but they have it at the moment. I sent it back before they confirmed that I had the tune for the 90mm maf and cone filter, and it hasn't made it back here yet.
KB is pretty adamant about their tune and changing anything. They will void the warranty if you try to get it tuned elsewhere. I see their point - they practically pioneered superchargers on the s197, and they have spent hundreds of thousands of dollars on testing different tunes and accessories. They have a really good point when you read their tech articles about tuning. Basically they say that the only way to add power in a tune is by changing the AF ratio or by advancing the spark. They feel that if either of these are changed for pump gas applications, then you risk blowing the motor, and I tend to believe them. I know I am having issues now, but so far each problem has been somewhat easily troubleshooted and fixed. A Dyno might point out some other problems, but it's not really an option right now, unfortunately.
If you want some good solid logic on superchargers, as well as some good background on the science behind them, spend some time on their website. It has been a great learning experience, and my background tells me that they know what they are talking about.
BTW, all positive displacement superchargers (roots and twin-screw) make full boost at low RPM, and there are quite literally thousands of people out there with one on a 4.6 3v engine that is, for all intents and purposes, identical to mine. Either the tune I have is screwed up from adaptive learning, or something else is the problem.
I keep thinking about Tillman Speed's problems in making power with the E-Force when it first came out, and in the end the problem was two bad spark plugs.. Who's to say that isn't my problem, or something equally as elusive? (bad injector, bad plug, bad coil pack, bad IAT sensor, etc). My biggest problem is I don't have the money to start replacing new plugs or start swapping injectors.. hehe. I still have an open gauge pod to fill..
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2006 GT Premium Vert, 5 spd, Tungsten Grey Show: Painted gloss black stripes, Street Scene Gen 1 body kit, side and hood scoops, CDC light bar, sequential tails, purple underglow, 8" shorty antenna, redline hood struts, Steeda Ultralights, 20" Chrome Killers, S.O.S. pillar & 3 gauges. Go: J&M LCA's & Adj. UCA, J&M Adj. Panhard, CHE LCA reloc brackets & torque limiters, 3.73 gears, Kenne Bell Stage 1 2.6l supercharger.
...440rwhp/401rwtq
Oh man. Please don't blow up that fine car. Until you get the tuner back and can flash it after the battery has been disconnected for an hour don't do anything.
Remember KB sent you the wrong tune in the first place or the wrong filter if you prefer. Why is it taking so long to get it back? Did you tell KB the whole world is watching?
Oh man. Please don't blow up that fine car. Until you get the tuner back and can flash it after the battery has been disconnected for an hour don't do anything.
Remember KB sent you the wrong tune in the first place or the wrong filter if you prefer. Why is it taking so long to get it back? Did you tell KB the whole world is watching?
The tune I have now is for the parts I have now, so unless they decide to change the tune, I have what they say I should have.
When I contacted them Tuesday, I got a call and the guy I talked to was told to get me the cone filter setup, which if you change from the airbox setup, you need a different tune. He didn't know that they already sent me the tune for the cone filter setup, so he told me to send the programmer in. I was guessing at the time that I already had the tune for the cone filter setup, but it was just a hunch at the time, and I was happy they were changing things out, so I offered to next day the programmer so they could get me the tune before the weekend. THEN, about 10 mins after UPS picked up the red label package, I got an email from the guy who does the tunes, and he confirmed my suspicions and told me NOT to send the tuner in, just install the 90mm MAF and sensor and filter, and it will work fine. I didn't ask for 2 day return shipping, so I don't have the programmer back yet. The only reason I was going to reload the tune was because I had driven with the wrong airbox and maf, and figured the adaptive learning might have screwed the tune all up.
Right now, I have good AF ratio, good boost, good vacuum, and above 3k rpm it runs really well.
I just got back from a long drive, and the sun had gone down, which means the temp dropped to about 60*. I had also had the battery disconnected for about an hour, and I spent about 10 minutes checking every connection under the hood. I didn't find anything wrong, but I did tighten a couple COP's that were slightly loose.
I got out into traffic and opened it up, and it pulls very nicely. Between the intercooler working now and the slightly cooler air, plus resetting the adaptive learning, I am very happy with it. I made about 20 pulls and each one was very strong, as long as I was over about 3k rpm. Granted this has always been the start of the power band for the 3v, but I didn't expect to get such poor power under boost at 2k rpm. It did ping a couple times at 2k with WOT. It could be the 91 octane fuel I am running combined with the engine being very warm from multiple pulls. Overall I was actually very impressed. I went out to an interstate ramp and got on it.. WOW!.. Last night with the intercooler not working, it was nice from 60-100, tonight, I started at 3k rpm in 3rd and pulled to about 95 at 6k rpm and it was very strong throughout. I eased back to 60 and pulled again to 100 and my grin was from ear to ear. Once I was back on city roads, I pulled a 0-60 and it was impressive.. It is taking time to get used to the taller gears (from 4.10 to 3.73) but if I left the 4.10s in I would be all over the road.. As it is, I don't have 100% traction all through 1st now, and about halfway through 2nd. My Hankook tires grab pretty good, and it aint easy to spin those heavy 20's either, so I guess I can't complain.
Overall I am happy, I just need to work out the bugs with the sub-3k rpm.. if it takes a little octane boost, so be it, I can live with that. These days you just don't know what kind of fuel you are getting, and a lot of refineries are adding ethanol to make the octane, and it could just be that the gas I got was crappy. I will still wait for KB to comment on the pinging and sluggish sub-3k performance, but now that I have had a chance to really drive it with all systems working, I am quite happy. I don't expect it to run like this at 90 or 100 degrees, which is unfortunate since it's a summer car, but perhaps it will drive me to build the engine and go up to 19 psi boost..
Or maybe I will wait a year or two for that...
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2006 GT Premium Vert, 5 spd, Tungsten Grey Show: Painted gloss black stripes, Street Scene Gen 1 body kit, side and hood scoops, CDC light bar, sequential tails, purple underglow, 8" shorty antenna, redline hood struts, Steeda Ultralights, 20" Chrome Killers, S.O.S. pillar & 3 gauges. Go: J&M LCA's & Adj. UCA, J&M Adj. Panhard, CHE LCA reloc brackets & torque limiters, 3.73 gears, Kenne Bell Stage 1 2.6l supercharger.
...440rwhp/401rwtq
The tune I have now is for the parts I have now, so unless they decide to change the tune, I have what they say I should have.
I know; I'm a big fan of this soap opera. I'm just saying when a computer is running crappy the last thing is to start messing around with hardware. The first thing and easiest thing is to reboot. You did that by disconnecting the battery. If that doesn't work next repair the operating system; you can't do that until they send it back.
If you are getting engine knock be careful.
I miss the good ol days of adjusting timing with a hammer, really I'm not kidding.
I know; I'm a big fan of this soap opera. I'm just saying when a computer is running crappy the last thing is to start messing around with hardware. The first thing and easiest thing is to reboot. You did that by disconnecting the battery. If that doesn't work next repair the operating system; you can't do that until they send it back.
If you are getting engine knock be careful.
I miss the good ol days of adjusting timing with a hammer, really I'm not kidding.
Heh.. I remember setting my points with a matchbook and tweaking timing all the time.. half the time I left the distributor partly loose so I could add some timing when I was gonna race.. just give it a little advance and flip the filter cover over and I was ready to race!
Talk about pinging, my 351W back then was running 13.5:1 compression, so I would put 7 bottles of isopropyl alcohol in a 9 gallon tank of 91 premium, along with the lead additive, just to keep it from pinging, and if it was over 90 degrees out, it was a given that it would ping... At 6 mpg, it got expensive. Of course that full tank was still only $20 with all the extras.. Ah, the good ole days..
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2006 GT Premium Vert, 5 spd, Tungsten Grey Show: Painted gloss black stripes, Street Scene Gen 1 body kit, side and hood scoops, CDC light bar, sequential tails, purple underglow, 8" shorty antenna, redline hood struts, Steeda Ultralights, 20" Chrome Killers, S.O.S. pillar & 3 gauges. Go: J&M LCA's & Adj. UCA, J&M Adj. Panhard, CHE LCA reloc brackets & torque limiters, 3.73 gears, Kenne Bell Stage 1 2.6l supercharger.
...440rwhp/401rwtq
Not sure if this would be the cause of anything, but do you have the right level of octane fuel in your car for the tune? You could also have bad gas in the car.
Who knows? That's one of the things you haven't really talked about yet. Maybe some octane booster is in order, just in case?
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All show... So far. Exterior: Roush Front Fascia w/o chin spoiler, Black Billet Foglight Delete Grille, hidden smoked foglights, GTS Blackout Panel, smoked tail lights, WebElectric Sequential tail lights, MUSTANG 3rd brake light, 14" Shorty Antenna. Interior: Red piping, RVinyl Aluminum Dash Kit, CDC Aluminum Pedal Covers.
I don't recall the brand of programmer they sent, but they have it at the moment. I sent it back before they confirmed that I had the tune for the 90mm maf and cone filter, and it hasn't made it back here yet.
KB is pretty adamant about their tune and changing anything. They will void the warranty if you try to get it tuned elsewhere. I see their point - they practically pioneered superchargers on the s197, and they have spent hundreds of thousands of dollars on testing different tunes and accessories. They have a really good point when you read their tech articles about tuning. Basically they say that the only way to add power in a tune is by changing the AF ratio or by advancing the spark. They feel that if either of these are changed for pump gas applications, then you risk blowing the motor, and I tend to believe them. I know I am having issues now, but so far each problem has been somewhat easily troubleshooted and fixed. A Dyno might point out some other problems, but it's not really an option right now, unfortunately.
If you want some good solid logic on superchargers, as well as some good background on the science behind them, spend some time on their website. It has been a great learning experience, and my background tells me that they know what they are talking about.
BTW, all positive displacement superchargers (roots and twin-screw) make full boost at low RPM, and there are quite literally thousands of people out there with one on a 4.6 3v engine that is, for all intents and purposes, identical to mine. Either the tune I have is screwed up from adaptive learning, or something else is the problem.
I keep thinking about Tillman Speed's problems in making power with the E-Force when it first came out, and in the end the problem was two bad spark plugs.. Who's to say that isn't my problem, or something equally as elusive? (bad injector, bad plug, bad coil pack, bad IAT sensor, etc). My biggest problem is I don't have the money to start replacing new plugs or start swapping injectors.. hehe. I still have an open gauge pod to fill..
