Sure wish you could get that thing dialed in. Did you swap pumps or use a BAP?
Being a Kenne Bell supercharger, they provided a Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump..
I have read that Brenspeed bypasses the vacuum switch and just turns it on all the time, but I don't know if that would play havoc with the tune or not.. Plus it could be an overpressure situation, which would lead to the computer turning the pulse width down on the pump, effectively cutting fuel for a short time. Going full on wouldn't help if that's the problem. I need to get a fuel pressure gauge, but I am tapped out..
__________________
____________________
2006 GT Premium Vert, 5 spd, Tungsten Grey Show: Painted gloss black stripes, Street Scene Gen 1 body kit, side and hood scoops, CDC light bar, sequential tails, purple underglow, 8" shorty antenna, redline hood struts, Steeda Ultralights, 20" Chrome Killers, S.O.S. pillar & 3 gauges. Go: J&M LCA's & Adj. UCA, J&M Adj. Panhard, CHE LCA reloc brackets & torque limiters, 3.73 gears, Kenne Bell Stage 1 2.6l supercharger.
...440rwhp/401rwtq
If it is, it's a cold run issue, which is why I am running it by Ken Christley, their tuner. It happens most prominently out of boost, so I am leaning that direction.. regarding fuel, 3 things changed.. the tune, the BAP, and the injectors.. the way the engine sounded when it was fuel starved suggested that none of the cylinders were firing.. so I doubt its an injector issue, unless all 8 don't work right at 50 degrees.. doesn't make sense. It doesn't do it after the car sits for a couple hours, it has to be stone cold, so I suspect its a cold run thing, rather than a BAP thing.. perhaps the fuel pressure sensor is bad and starts working when it warms up.. I dunno..
Does that Aeroforce gauge monitor fuel rail pressure from the OBDII port? Or do you have to add a sensor? I would like to know what the computer thinks the pressure is when it's cold..
__________________
____________________
2006 GT Premium Vert, 5 spd, Tungsten Grey Show: Painted gloss black stripes, Street Scene Gen 1 body kit, side and hood scoops, CDC light bar, sequential tails, purple underglow, 8" shorty antenna, redline hood struts, Steeda Ultralights, 20" Chrome Killers, S.O.S. pillar & 3 gauges. Go: J&M LCA's & Adj. UCA, J&M Adj. Panhard, CHE LCA reloc brackets & torque limiters, 3.73 gears, Kenne Bell Stage 1 2.6l supercharger.
...440rwhp/401rwtq
Please don't take this wrong but did you check to make sure the BAP is turned all the way up? Mine was turned down when I had my install done and it affected the way the car ran. I have it mounted under the dash out of the way so I know it will not get turned down now and starve the motor. Just a thought. Good luck.
Please don't take this wrong but did you check to make sure the BAP is turned all the way up? Mine was turned down when I had my install done and it affected the way the car ran. I have it mounted under the dash out of the way so I know it will not get turned down now and starve the motor. Just a thought. Good luck.
They no longer have a dial. Just the wires that lead to the vacuum switch up front. The odd thing though is once the engine is warm it is definately not starving for fuel.. only when cold.
Ken from KB responded to my email last night, and in replying, something came to me that I am afraid would be the cause. I had a custom tune in before I got the supercharger, and I pulled the car up on blocks, then restored to factory tune and tore into it. I never started the engine on the factory tune, and 3 days later when the supercharger was done, I uploaded the new tune. Is it possible that the factory tune didn't take, since I never ran the car after loading it, and the KB tune is now wrong because something was left over from the Brenspeed tune? The problem is, I have no way to get it back to stock again since the supercharger is on, and would have to transplant my ECU into a stock system to flash it back to stock if that is what happens.. I sold my old tuner, which did unlock successfully, and since I didn't want to install the factory airbox back in only to take it right back out, I never started the vehicle.
I am a little nervous about this possibility.
__________________
____________________
2006 GT Premium Vert, 5 spd, Tungsten Grey Show: Painted gloss black stripes, Street Scene Gen 1 body kit, side and hood scoops, CDC light bar, sequential tails, purple underglow, 8" shorty antenna, redline hood struts, Steeda Ultralights, 20" Chrome Killers, S.O.S. pillar & 3 gauges. Go: J&M LCA's & Adj. UCA, J&M Adj. Panhard, CHE LCA reloc brackets & torque limiters, 3.73 gears, Kenne Bell Stage 1 2.6l supercharger.
...440rwhp/401rwtq
As many times as I have reflashed my PCM, I never take it back to stock. I don't think its necessary. I would reflash your tune for the KB and see what happens. Are you getting a custome dyno tune?
__________________
07 REDFIRE GT 5 SPEED 3.55 gears
C&L Racer CAI XCAL2/Seq signals/GTAs/Steeda UDP/CHE K Member Brace W/Torq Links/J&M LCA/Spider DS/PRO.50 Shifter Hurst handle & "T"/Meziere EO2/ARH LT catted H /Prothane MM/Delet Plates/SLP BOSS 429 Scoop/Accel COP/PowerSlot/Hawk Pads/Tokico D-Spec/CHE Panhard Bar Brace/Steeda Adj. Panhard Bar/BMR F/R Sway Bars/Cervini ducktail spoiler/BMR UCA Mount/CHE UCA/GT\CS Rear Cover/AMChrome Bullets 18x9/10s/Nitto 255/45&295/45
Tillman Dyno Tune 307HP/322TQ
As many times as I have reflashed my PCM, I never take it back to stock. I don't think its necessary. I would reflash your tune for the KB and see what happens. Are you getting a custome dyno tune?
I already reflashed and no change. There aren't any custom dyno shops anywhere near here that could tune the car, and certainly nobody I would trust around here more than KB. Aside from the highly respected shops like Brenspeed or JDM, I don't think I would take it to a tuner even if there was one here.. Unless their tech has spent 20 years tuning KB's I just wouldn't trust them to be able to do better. If the problem is in the tune, it's because I didn't have a factory tune to start with.. It's hard to argue the fact that for five years this tune has worked perfectly on thousands of S197's. That being the case, it's a matter of looking for what isn't right. I have boost, so the supercharger works. I have good AF at WOT so the tune seems right, plus there was no errors uploading it. Car pulls great when it's warm, and runs perfectly. That only leaves a few things, like plugs, coils, injectors, BAP, FRP sensor, IAT sensor, but since it runs fine once warm, many of those can be ruled out.
I am great at troubleshooting, but not a mechanic, and certainly not an expert on the S197's.. I was wanting to bypass the vacuum switch on the BAP since Tuesday night, but I was worried it would cause a problem with their tune, so I held off. Now they are asking that I try it to see if it fixes the cold run problem. If it does, then I have a bad vacuum switch. I will try that next and see what happens.. only problem is I have to let the car cool off now for at least a few hours to reproduce the problems, so it might not be until morning before I can tell whether it fixes the problem..
__________________
____________________
2006 GT Premium Vert, 5 spd, Tungsten Grey Show: Painted gloss black stripes, Street Scene Gen 1 body kit, side and hood scoops, CDC light bar, sequential tails, purple underglow, 8" shorty antenna, redline hood struts, Steeda Ultralights, 20" Chrome Killers, S.O.S. pillar & 3 gauges. Go: J&M LCA's & Adj. UCA, J&M Adj. Panhard, CHE LCA reloc brackets & torque limiters, 3.73 gears, Kenne Bell Stage 1 2.6l supercharger.
...440rwhp/401rwtq
I ordered my Brenspeed Vortech V3 Kit 2 weeks ago and I am almost done with the S/c Install- However, brenspeed sent me a boost a pump and mine came with the dial and I was told to bypass the switch by putting the two wires together.
I was not aware that they stop sending the dials, maybe its only for the KB S/C kits...
Well Man I hope it gets better!! Sounds like your working through everything, I am near the end stage which is taking the plugs out and I just broke two of them - lucky enough a ford mechanic is coming over with the tool to help me get them out - but just keeping working at it!!!! You will get it solved! Hang in there...
I wish you luck with finding the problem. There is a whole lot more to a tune then just wot and afm. Well good luck I hope it doesn't cost much to find it.
I personally wouldn't run a blower that isn't custom dyno tuned but that Me.
__________________
07 REDFIRE GT 5 SPEED 3.55 gears
C&L Racer CAI XCAL2/Seq signals/GTAs/Steeda UDP/CHE K Member Brace W/Torq Links/J&M LCA/Spider DS/PRO.50 Shifter Hurst handle & "T"/Meziere EO2/ARH LT catted H /Prothane MM/Delet Plates/SLP BOSS 429 Scoop/Accel COP/PowerSlot/Hawk Pads/Tokico D-Spec/CHE Panhard Bar Brace/Steeda Adj. Panhard Bar/BMR F/R Sway Bars/Cervini ducktail spoiler/BMR UCA Mount/CHE UCA/GT\CS Rear Cover/AMChrome Bullets 18x9/10s/Nitto 255/45&295/45
Tillman Dyno Tune 307HP/322TQ
I don't want to celebrate prematurely, but the car sat for over 3 hours this morning in 60 degree weather, so it was fairly cold, and I jumpered the wires to bypass the vacuum switch, and so far not a single problem. Runs way stronger too, even warm. I am thinking that the switch was bad. The real test will be tomorrow morning when it has sat over night and is cold, but i am hopeful.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kylejb2663
I ordered my Brenspeed Vortech V3 Kit 2 weeks ago and I am almost done with the S/c Install- However, brenspeed sent me a boost a pump and mine came with the dial and I was told to bypass the switch by putting the two wires together.
I was not aware that they stop sending the dials, maybe its only for the KB S/C kits...
Well Man I hope it gets better!! Sounds like your working through everything, I am near the end stage which is taking the plugs out and I just broke two of them - lucky enough a ford mechanic is coming over with the tool to help me get them out - but just keeping working at it!!!! You will get it solved! Hang in there...
OUCH.. I was so nervous when removing my plugs, I hope you get them out without any more problems. It would suck to have to remove the heads! (If that had happened to me I would probably have just bought cams since it would have been almost no more work to install them at that time).
The BAP I got came with a supplement saying that they changed the design, and there is not even a plug anymore for the control. Just the 2 red wires, a black wire, and the vacuum switch wire. Could very well be that Brenspeed still has stock from before the change.
In twisting the wires together instead of using the switch, the only thing I have noticed, other than it seeming to run right, is after boost, my idle goes whacky for a few seconds.. bouncing between 500 and 1000.. If the BAP is pushing 17 volts at idle the factory fuel pressure sensor is probably telling the computer to lengthen the pulse on the fuel pump and my pressure could be fluctuating now..
Funny thing is, the gauge I don't have yet would have told me of this problem from the beginning. The AF ratio gauge showed me there was a problem with my tune (wrong MAF), the boost gauge showed me that my vacuum and boost were right, even with nothing else seemed right (led me to investigate the intercooler and fix it), and the fuel pressure gauge would have shown me this problem. With all the debate going on out there on which gauges to run with a supercharger, I am living proof that the AF, Boost, Fuel Pressure setup is the one to do.
__________________
____________________
2006 GT Premium Vert, 5 spd, Tungsten Grey Show: Painted gloss black stripes, Street Scene Gen 1 body kit, side and hood scoops, CDC light bar, sequential tails, purple underglow, 8" shorty antenna, redline hood struts, Steeda Ultralights, 20" Chrome Killers, S.O.S. pillar & 3 gauges. Go: J&M LCA's & Adj. UCA, J&M Adj. Panhard, CHE LCA reloc brackets & torque limiters, 3.73 gears, Kenne Bell Stage 1 2.6l supercharger.
...440rwhp/401rwtq
What a PITA! I feel for ya. I would be going nuts.
I am running the KB too.
I almost always warm my car up till the thermostat opens before I drive it (it’s a toy so I have the time) but the few times I have driven the car when not fully warm it’s a bit……finicky. Hasn’t been much of an issue though because I don’t need to start it and leave 99% of the time.
When I was installing my blower ad got to the BAP portion and started thinking about what it did I wasn’t exactly thrilled to death. Setting up and making a returnless fuel system that runs correctly takes a lot of computing power and everything (and there are a lot of things) need to work perfect too keep drivability. The thought of adding another component into an already complex system without much margin for error didn’t thrill me to death. I still installed everything according to the instructions though and ran it as KB intended. After the install I started the car to see if it would ‘work” and wasn’t leaking anything but I didn’t load KB’s tune (couldn’t, I had a 06’ kit and was putting it on a 07’ before they had a 07’ kit). I took the car straight to the dyno on the trailer. The car got set up and ran perfect for me for that season (April-Oct) but I always had that BAP and my concerns about it in the back of my mind. When the season ended I decided I wanted to drop the BAP and go with a return fuel system to simplify everything and eliminate a lot of possible issues. I also planed on more power in the future so why not.
Once I built the return system I took it back to my dyno guys to get it dialed back in and it turned out fantastic. They got 19hp more through the midrange because they felt a lot safer about the stability of the fuel system and didn’t need to “back off” as much on the tune to account for the BAP, the way it works and its tendency to be “one step behind” in regards to having the right amount of fuel at the right time. Oh, yeah. And the car runs fantastic.
I know you just got done dropping the big bucks and have a lot of time invested and an obviously high level of frustration so getting more stuff is probably not at the top of your list. But, going with a return system eliminated a TON of potential issues with the fuel system and it can be tuned better and therefore have more HP to boot. It may be something to consider.
__________________
Under Construction. Better, Stronger, Faster than it was before.
Great to hear everything worked out ok for you. I must say that it was pretty awesome to see how the members on this forum pulled together to help and show support.I think this is one of the best mustang forums on the web with some of the friendliest members who are willing to help out anyone.I have learned alot from just reading threads and posts on hear.
