AFM Web

Go Back   Ford Mustang Forums > Mustang Forums > 2005 + Mustang > 2005-2009 Mustang GT Tech
Welcome to AllFordMustangs.com. We look forward to you registering on our forum and making your first post.
 
Introductions | Lounge | 2005+ GT Tech | 2005+ V6 Tech | 2005+ Talk | Mustang Tech | Racing | Regional 
 

Reply
 
Old 06-24-2009   #1 (permalink)
2008VistaBlueGT is offline Apprentice

S197 Member


Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 55 Threads: 9
 2008VistaBlueGT's Country Flag
Oakville   Ontario
Default 2005+ Mustang GT Lower Control Arm Removal Question

So sure this is a pretty easy install.......however I have a question.

All of the instructions I see indicate to remove the bolts using a 18mm socket. That being said - the nut is 21mm.

Historically, I remove the nut first to remove a bolt. I see the nut is designed to hold isetself tight so you don't need the 21mm wrench to hold it.

So what's the deal here - just remove the bolt?
__________________
2008 Vista Blue Mustang GT Coupe, FRPP Hot Rod Cams, FRPP 4.10s, Eiback Pro Lowering Kit, Steeda UDP, Steeda CMDP, Steeda CAI with 94 Octane Custom Dyno Tune, Solo Performance Axleback Exhaust, 20" Foose Nitrous Legend wrapped with Falken FK-452.
2008VistaBlueGT is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2009   #2 (permalink)
SpookyStang is offline Made Member

4.6L Member
S197 Member


Joined: May 2009
Posts: 303 Threads: 8
 SpookyStang's Country Flag  View SpookyStang's HomePage
West/Central   Florida
Default

I would like to know the answer to this question, too. My uncles/fiance tried to remove my stock LCA's to install BMR LCA's and my stock ones would not come off. I'm going to have to take it to a shop to have them installed.
__________________
White 1993 Mustang LX 4 banger; stock.
Black 2005 Mustang GT; not stock.
I am a girl and a fervent forum mechanic hater.
SpookyStang is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2009   #3 (permalink)
Kylejb2663 is offline Rookie


Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 28 Threads: 4
 Kylejb2663's Country Flag
Schenectady (Upstate NY)   New York
Default

Remove the bolt and the nut stays in place! I just had to replace mine about 3-4 months ago because my tie rod ends were bad on both sides.

They are hard to get in and out due to the weird design of them.
Kylejb2663 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2009   #4 (permalink)
Kylejb2663 is offline Rookie


Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 28 Threads: 4
 Kylejb2663's Country Flag
Schenectady (Upstate NY)   New York
Default

If you need more documentation, let me know- I have a ford service manual that I can scan in a few pages on the LCA's.
Kylejb2663 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2009   #5 (permalink)
pcfrisch is offline Forums Moderator


Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 15,773 Threads: 589
 pcfrisch's Country Flag  View pcfrisch's 10 photos
Southeastern   Michigan
Send a message via Yahoo to pcfrisch
Default

This may help:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=65&viewfile=Lower%20Arm.pdf
__________________
2006 GT Tungsten Grey 5 spd, Xcal2/Pipeline CAI, Powerhouse tune. Spoiler delete. Front Speakers:Infinity 6812CF;Blaupunkt GTc652. Rear:Infinity Kappa 682.7CF. H/U:Alpine CDA-9885. Alpine MRP-F250 amp. Sequentials. President of the Splash guard registry. On Deck: Motoblue UDP's.
pcfrisch is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2009   #6 (permalink)
travelers is offline Top Dog

S197 Member


Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 10,036 Threads: 64
 travelers's Country Flag  View travelers's 14 photos
Eastern   Pennsylvania
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2008VistaBlueGT View Post
just remove the bolt?
Yessssssssssssssssss
__________________
07 REDFIRE GT 5 SPEED 3.55 gears
C&L Racer CAI XCAL2/Seq signals/GTAs/Steeda UDP/CHE K Member Brace W/Torq Links/J&M LCA/Spider DS/PRO.50 Shifter Hurst handle & "T"/Meziere EO2/ARH LT catted H /Prothane MM/Delet Plates/SLP BOSS 429 Scoop/Accel COP/PowerSlot/Hawk Pads/Tokico D-Spec/CHE Panhard Bar Brace/Steeda Adj. Panhard Bar/BMR F/R Sway Bars/Cervini ducktail spoiler/BMR UCA Mount/CHE UCA/GT\CS Rear Cover/AMChrome Bullets 18x9/10s/Nitto 255/45&295/45
Tillman Dyno Tune 307HP/322TQ
travelers is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2009   #7 (permalink)
smokeshow is offline Made Member

S197 Member


Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 850 Threads: 21
 smokeshow's Country Flag  View smokeshow's 23 photos  View smokeshow's HomePage
Spring Mills   Pennsylvania
Default

I just did my LCAs this past weekend, so it's still fresh in my mind. Yep, the bolts are 18mm, and the nuts have the tab welded on the back so you don't have to hold them.

Here's a brain dump of the process I followed:

You'll want to put the rear axle up on jack stands and pull the wheels.

With the e-brake off, pop the little spring steel clip off the e-brake assembly, and unhook the cable, and thread it through the stock LCA.

Then, for one side, pull the 18mm bolts out, and take out the stock LCA. Do them one at a time, or else the axle may shift.

Grease the bushings as specified in the instructions, and put the LCAs into place. Mine also had a front/back and left/right orientation, so make sure you get that right.

I have a rubber hammer that I used to get them settled, and get the holes lined up. Insert the bolts but don't torque them down very much. I also used the rubber hammer to tap the bolts through.

When both LCAs are in, but not torqued down, put the wheels back on, drop the car, and put the back up on ramps. I used Loc-tite on the bolts as well. Then, torque the bolts down to 129 ft-lb. You want to torque to spec while they're sitting at the stock ride height, hence the wheels sitting on the ramps. Just a fore-warning, there's not much of an arc to turn the torque wrench on the front (frame) bolts, so it takes awhile.

There's also something in the shop manual about a method of marking the rear shock sleeve height, but I didn't feel like messing with that.

A lift would make it really easy, but it's doable on jackstands and ramps. Have fun!

Quote:
Originally Posted by SpookyStang View Post
I would like to know the answer to this question, too. My uncles/fiance tried to remove my stock LCA's to install BMR LCA's and my stock ones would not come off. I'm going to have to take it to a shop to have them installed.
Ouch... I don't remember mine "falling" out, but I didn't have to put much pressure on it. With both bolts and e-brake cable out, I'm assuming they tried tapping it with a hammer or something, right?
__________________
2005 Mustang GT in Torch Red
C&L Cold Air Intake/Diablosport Predator Tune
Tokico D-Spec Shocks & Struts
Steeda Sport Springs/Front and Rear Swaybar/Front Swaybar Brace/LCAs/Adjustable Panhard Bar and Brace
Steeda-branded Borla Stingers
Steeda Underdrive Pullies
1965 "GT" Logo and some other chrome bits
smokeshow is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2009   #8 (permalink)
2008VistaBlueGT is offline Apprentice

S197 Member


Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 55 Threads: 9
 2008VistaBlueGT's Country Flag
Oakville   Ontario
Default

Thanks for the info. It was really removing the bold rather than the nut that concerned me. Cheers.
__________________
2008 Vista Blue Mustang GT Coupe, FRPP Hot Rod Cams, FRPP 4.10s, Eiback Pro Lowering Kit, Steeda UDP, Steeda CMDP, Steeda CAI with 94 Octane Custom Dyno Tune, Solo Performance Axleback Exhaust, 20" Foose Nitrous Legend wrapped with Falken FK-452.
2008VistaBlueGT is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2009   #9 (permalink)
93redlx is offline Apprentice


Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 107 Threads: 39
 93redlx's Country Flag  View 93redlx's 1 classified ad
Houston   Texas
Default

i change mines like 2 weeks ago, i just remove the bolt and that was it. by the way in what they help you this friday ima take it to the track see if they help me on my 60ft.
__________________
FRPP air filter-90mm mas air-jba shorty headers-3.73-rear roush shock n springs-bmr rear lca-bmr sway bar delete- spec stage 2 clucth n flywheel
93redlx is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2009   #10 (permalink)
Itchy is offline Apprentice

S197 Member


Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 222 Threads: 21
 Itchy's Country Flag  View Itchy's 6 photos
Bel Air   Maryland
Default

Just a little FYI on bolts and Loc-tite:

Most of the Ford bolts are one time use because they add a little patch of "loc-tite" to the bolts. This amount was determined using a controlled test environment so that Ford could have a high confidence level that the applied torque produces the correct preload in the bolt.

Using too much Loc-tite increases the preload obtained for a specified torque.

That being said, I use Loc-tite; it makes me feel safer. Just don't over do it or you will have bolts that are not preloaded enough even though you applied the correct torque.
__________________
2006 Mustang GT
Itchy is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2009   #11 (permalink)
stlwagon is online now Site Administrator

S197 Member


Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 64,617 Threads: 680
 stlwagon's Country Flag  View stlwagon's 53 photos  View stlwagon's 4 classified ads
Southern   Maryland
Send a message via Yahoo to stlwagon
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Itchy View Post
Just a little FYI on bolts and Loc-tite:

Most of the Ford bolts are one time use because they add a little patch of "loc-tite" to the bolts. This amount was determined using a controlled test environment so that Ford could have a high confidence level that the applied torque produces the correct preload in the bolt.

Using too much Loc-tite increases the preload obtained for a specified torque.

That being said, I use Loc-tite; it makes me feel safer. Just don't over do it or you will have bolts that are not preloaded enough even though you applied the correct torque.
Those bolts are also torque-to-yield so they're designed for single use because they actually stretch.
__________________
AFM Site Administrator
2005 Mustang GT
stlwagon is online now  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2009   #12 (permalink)
Itchy is offline Apprentice

S197 Member


Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 222 Threads: 21
 Itchy's Country Flag  View Itchy's 6 photos
Bel Air   Maryland
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by stlwagon View Post
Those bolts are also torque-to-yield so they're designed for single use because they actually stretch.
I was just about to disagree, but then I did some math and the torque specs in the manual actually do come out pretty close to theoretical torque to yield a M12x1.75 fastener. Learn something new everyday

The point of my previous post is even more important now ...

If you over do it on the Loc-tite, you reduce the friction between the bolt and nut thus resulting in more preload for a applied torque.
__________________
2006 Mustang GT
Itchy is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools


sponsors

Mustang Photos
Add to Favorites    Link to us    Contact    Directory    Site Rules    Archive    Terms of Use    Privacy    Top Sites    RSS    Meet Our Sponsors    Advertise   
AllFordMustangs is not affiliated with or endorsed by Ford Motor Company. ©Copyright 2002-2010 All Auto Enthusiasts Network

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112