I was told that under normal driving conditions you should see 14.7,.8,.9 which is what I see is this correct?
I'm finding that I can get the throttle pushed in enough to get a little boost(according to gauge) probably about 2 to 3 psi and still read 12's or stay around the 14.7 is this normal/ok?
If I go over 50% throttle or higher thats when I start to see the AFR go to the rich side of the gauge and down to a safe level like 11 to 11.7 range but I'm worried that even though at 50% throttle w/ boost isnt pushing the engine I dont know if its ok either.
Just general concerns as this is my first SC and before I call the tuner back in VA I want to see what you guys say. Just for clarification, its a saleen 475kit(hit 5.9 psi max 399.3rwhp) I didnt have time to get the supershaker intake installed.
AF can bounce around a little when the computer is reacting to different scenarios, but all in all, you should see about 14.5-14.9 when cruising, and about 11.5-11.8 at WOT. In between is a mish-mash and while there are targets the computer goes for, it is practically impossible to judge exactly where it should be at mid throttle accelleration.. too many factors can give you too many results. Just always be on the lookout for pings.. if you are at 3/4 throttle and it's pinging, then there is a tune or fuel problem. If it pings, the computer will pull timing, but it is always good to be aware of these things. Just remember - the AF gauge is great for spotting glaring problems, but it is just a semi-accurate gauge that shows the result of a multitude of factors, so don't get too reliant on it. If you see over 12 at WOT once the gauge settles down, or over 15 at idle or cruise constantly, then you need to talk to your tuner. Otherwise, enjoy the flashy lights..
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2006 GT Premium Vert, 5 spd, Tungsten Grey Show: Painted gloss black stripes, Street Scene Gen 1 body kit, side and hood scoops, CDC light bar, sequential tails, purple underglow, 8" shorty antenna, redline hood struts, Steeda Ultralights, 20" Chrome Killers, S.O.S. pillar & 3 gauges. Go: J&M LCA's & Adj. UCA, J&M Adj. Panhard, CHE LCA reloc brackets & torque limiters, 3.73 gears, Kenne Bell Stage 1 2.6l supercharger.
...440rwhp/401rwtq
AF can bounce around a little when the computer is reacting to different scenarios, but all in all, you should see about 14.5-14.9 when cruising, and about 11.5-11.8 at WOT. In between is a mish-mash and while there are targets the computer goes for, it is practically impossible to judge exactly where it should be at mid throttle accelleration.. too many factors can give you too many results. Just always be on the lookout for pings.. if you are at 3/4 throttle and it's pinging, then there is a tune or fuel problem. If it pings, the computer will pull timing, but it is always good to be aware of these things. Just remember - the AF gauge is great for spotting glaring problems, but it is just a semi-accurate gauge that shows the result of a multitude of factors, so don't get too reliant on it. If you see over 12 at WOT once the gauge settles down, or over 15 at idle or cruise constantly, then you need to talk to your tuner. Otherwise, enjoy the flashy lights..
That reply was a pleasure to read. Good info, correct spelling, proper punctuation. Doesn't happen often enough, Thank you.
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97 Cobra-03 Cobra t56 and alum DS, SPEC111 clutch, FRPP 4:10,T&J Performance Forged 4v(8.9:1), Manley rods, Novi 2000 w/ Fast Track A/A I/C, Barry Grant Fuel syst., BBK longtubes and H-pipe, MSD ignition, Detroit True Track, Magnaflows, 315 NT01's on 17 x 11's, KB BAS, SCT tune and about a million other things. 575 RWHP. Going into the shop this winter, looking for 650 RWHP.
AF can bounce around a little when the computer is reacting to different scenarios, but all in all, you should see about 14.5-14.9 when cruising, and about 11.5-11.8 at WOT. In between is a mish-mash and while there are targets the computer goes for, it is practically impossible to judge exactly where it should be at mid throttle accelleration.. too many factors can give you too many results. ..
This is the big problem with the returnless fuel system.
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Under Construction. Better, Stronger, Faster than it was before.
I was told that under normal driving conditions you should see 14.7,.8,.9 which is what I see is this correct?
I'm finding that I can get the throttle pushed in enough to get a little boost(according to gauge) probably about 2 to 3 psi and still read 12's or stay around the 14.7 is this normal/ok?
If I go over 50% throttle or higher thats when I start to see the AFR go to the rich side of the gauge and down to a safe level like 11 to 11.7 range but I'm worried that even though at 50% throttle w/ boost isnt pushing the engine I dont know if its ok either.
Just general concerns as this is my first SC and before I call the tuner back in VA I want to see what you guys say. Just for clarification, its a saleen 475kit(hit 5.9 psi max 399.3rwhp) I didnt have time to get the supershaker intake installed.
I see the same numbers. your fine.
to bad you didnt have the time to get the SuperShaker.
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Saleen S/C 3.2 pulley tuned by JDM Engineering, GT500 pumps, CHE goodies on the rear, 4.10's, KOOKS/ high flow catted X pipe with PYPES Violators, Spydershaft, TCI 3500 stall, PA deep tranny pan. Meziere w/p,M&H 325/45/17 DRs.
future mods.... a 3.0 pulley
At 2-3 PSI AFR could still be hovering around 13 and still be safe as long as there isn't too much timing.
This is why I hate AFR gauges they are either
a.) inaccurate
b.) just shy of useless under normal driving conditions
As long as your happy I wouldn't worry about what your describing.
The fuel pressure doesn’t surge or take time to “react” to changes with a return system in place. The fuel pump is always running at one speed, the regulator at one PSI and when the injectors need fuel the only calculation for the ECU is what pulse width to use.
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Under Construction. Better, Stronger, Faster than it was before.
The fuel pressure doesn’t surge or take time to “react” to changes with a return system in place. The fuel pump is always running at one speed, the regulator at one PSI and when the injectors need fuel the only calculation for the ECU is what pulse width to use.
There is a "react" time, because your regulator is hooked to manifold pressure via a vacuum line. It seems more reliable because its harder to screw up, it usually either works or it doesnt.
Now there is a lot more to tuning returnless then just "adjusting" them, but its a good system. Also with the FRPS (which came about with returnless system) the ecm can now react to low fuel pressure and add more fuel or subtract fuel for an increase in fuel pressure.
Both systems work, and work well. Its just the returnless isn't as easy.
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93 Cobra Supercharged 342 Vortech T-trim...all sorts of stuff, by Thrill Ride Unlimited Mt. Vernon Oh.
There is a "react" time, because your regulator is hooked to manifold pressure via a vacuum line. It seems more reliable because its harder to screw up, it usually either works or it doesnt.
Now there is a lot more to tuning returnless then just "adjusting" them, but its a good system. Also with the FRPS (which came about with returnless system) the ecm can now react to low fuel pressure and add more fuel or subtract fuel for an increase in fuel pressure.
Both systems work, and work well. Its just the returnless isn't as easy.
Never said a returnless didn't work. It just has more potential problems because it performs more tasks. The more hp you make the less you can afford to have things go wrong, even a little. That's where I feel the simplicity of a return system and the few advantages it has (cooler fuel temps, no pressure surges, no presure reversals, etc) are well worth the money.
When one simple screw up by your fuel system can roast a motor I look at it like cheap insurance.
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Various SC/AFR Questions 
