My JLT CAI makes the shwooshing sound. maybe you didnt notice it until after the cams, but like StL said, i would give it much concern.
__________________
2006 Mustang GT- Tungsten with Black vinyl stripes
JLT CAI - SCT Xcal3 - Steeda UDP - Borla Axle Back exhaust
Next: interior dress up, short shifter
on hold indefinitely: (accidents FTL)
Forged internals, Powerhouse Turbo
Remove Vinyl and put some paint on it
Suspension, 18x9 and 18x10 fr500 anthracite wheels
I agree with STL. When combining all sorts of aftermarket parts on the inlet side you will run into odd noises now and again. The spacer is a good bet though. If you remove it and the noise goes away but you want it on the car check to see if it’s perfectly port matched. A slight step or ridge can make all sorts of odd noises on the intake side. As odd as it sounds keep in mind that intake noise is almost as loud as exhaust noise in a lot of cases. That’s why the OEM airbox is so restricted. It has to be to pass EPA noise emissions. When you put a CAI on you are letting a lot of sounds that would normally be masked out.
You may still want to check for a vacuum leak though. It’s easy as pie. Start the motor and just spray hoses, fittings, mating surfaces, etc with carb cleaner or starting fluid (you don’t need to hose it down). If the motor changes RPM’s when you spray a specific spot you just found a leak. I’m leaning toward vacuum leak a bit because you mentioned that the idle is rough. Your cams have a 115.5 LSA which is very conservative so they shouldn’t cause the car to have a noticeably choppy idle. Which leaves vacuum leak or horribly degreed cams.
I don’t see CMRC (or whatever the letters are for them) plates I your sig. Do you have those? I’m guessing you do. The combination of those, the spacer and your cams which have a LOT more duration than the stock ones can be making all sorts of strange noises.
If it makes you feel ay better back in the day I had a 347 with a pretty big cam, the original GT-40 intake (the non cast one), 75mm TB, 77mm mass air and a big filter of some sort. At the time all that stuff was brand new and cutting edge. The combination made an incredibly loud intake whistle that drove me insane. It sounded like there was a pissed off Football Coach under the hood. I checked everything and even went as far as to perfectly port match every component all the way too the intake ports. I never got rid of the noise……….until I yanked all of that stuff off and replaced it with a Victor jr., and Barry Grant.
Good luck.
__________________
Under Construction. Better, Stronger, Faster than it was before.
Don't forget that the cam changed how the engine is processing air. I don't think you have anything to worry about.
If you have not changed the tune since the cam install then you should be fine. You did not mention if you had a dyno tune previously. I would trust the dyno-tune over anything sent by mail. Brenspeed is good but if someone has mapped the MAF tranfer in person, that should be good for NSR cams. If you had a canned tune before, try the one from Brenspeed, you might get surprised.
__________________
Sold:('86 GT Jalapeno Red 'vert, 200,000 miles Lots of Mods!!!!
2006 Mustang GT
C&L Racer, Eibach, SCT, CHE, CMCV Deletes, PRP, 4:10s on the way.
New toy:
1989 Mustang 2.3L Auto. 5.0 waiting in the garage...
Mine always had the noise somewhat after the CAI and tune but got louder with the cams, CMP deletes and Brenspeed tune. Sucking more air now would be my guess. It sounds somewhat like a carb'd motor with a four barrell and no air filter at wot.
I was quoted $1000 install by a local shop for Comp Cams XFI stage 3 cams, phaser limiters, and high load springs. I thought the quote included degreeing and dyno tune but would have to double check. Is that a reasonable price?
I was quoted $1000 install by a local shop for Comp Cams XFI stage 3 cams, phaser limiters, and high load springs. I thought the quote included degreeing and dyno tune but would have to double check. Is that a reasonable price?
Wouldn't do that without supporting mods. I believe the only way to make those work that's anywhere close to reasonable would be to do them yourself and save labor costs. Then, when you factor in the supporting mods you'd be better off going FI.
__________________
It's better to burn out than to fade away - The Kurgan
I was quoted $1000 install by a local shop for Comp Cams XFI stage 3 cams, phaser limiters, and high load springs. I thought the quote included degreeing and dyno tune but would have to double check. Is that a reasonable price?
If they do degree the cams and dyno tune it $1000 doesn't seem bad. What is the norm for droping cams in? $500?
Dyno tuning is at least $350 for a complete custom map.
That would be $150 for degreeing the cams. That's cheap. I wouldn't degree the cams for less than $300 (and I am just guessing, I have no idea how hard the 3v motor is to degree)
If they are going to do all that for a "G" thats a great price. I think you will find that is not the case though.
__________________
Under Construction. Better, Stronger, Faster than it was before.
Since i have installed the HotRod cams i have noticed that the pattern in which the engine sucks in air has completely changed. With just a CAI/Delete plates and tune the induction sound was very smoooth and steady, since the cams the induction sound much more choppy, almost a "woosh" sound like you mentioned. Keep in mind that you have changed the pattern of air flow in and out of your engine with the cams, it SHOULD sound different.
I would recomend a Dyno tune with cams, sure it will work without one but you have to let your engine know that things have changed with airflow. You already spent the cash to buy them and get them in there, whats another $300 to get it to run at its full potential. Email tunes will run very rich, a custom tune will run just rite and get the most out of your cars potential.
__________________
2007 GT Convertible Premium 5 spd || FRPP HotRod Cams || Full Steeda Suspension w D-Specs || Brembo GT500 || Steeda CAI & Delete plates|| Flowmaster || Magnaflow catted X Pipe || MGW Shifter || Tuned by RealSpeed ||
I'm having a hard time finding a good shop, then, because I got several quotes upwards of $1000, with that G actually quoted by AMP in Phoenix. I guess they're used to guys throwing money at them for high-end jobs so I need a more reasonable shop in the valley.
So far, Kurgan, I've done every mod myself, but cams are too difficult. FRPP "baseball card in the spoke" cams (sorry couldn't resist are a lot easier than installing a new set of high-lift cams with phasers, springs and retainers. But I see your point...wish I could install them myself.
So far, Kurgan, I've done every mod myself, but cams are too difficult. FRPP "baseball card in the spoke" cams (sorry couldn't resist are a lot easier than installing a new set of high-lift cams with phasers, springs and retainers. But I see your point...wish I could install them myself.
For all that more labor and parts you'll get about 10 more HP tops. Anytime you want to race these baseball card in the spoke wheels you let me know
__________________
It's better to burn out than to fade away - The Kurgan
are a lot easier than installing a new set of high-lift cams with phasers, springs and retainers. But I see your point...wish I could install them myself.
