Im hoping Brenspeed will make their own shortblocks. When I had my blower installed there one of the guys was saying they were thinking of making Brenspeed shortblocks. Just in the idea stage now I guess. Id buy one. Those guys have been pretty cool to me. And I trust that they would only produce a quality engine.
Right now if my rods wanted to be liberated from the block Id say I would go with an MMR, Livernois, JDM(298) or FRPP Aluminator shortblock. Im hoping my engine lives a long happy life though.
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I can understand you wanting to do the wrench work yourself, but quite frankly, if you don't know the difference between an un-bored block and one that has been bored .020 over, I dont' know if taking on an engine build is for you. Start smaller.. get a Vortech V3 kit from Brenspeed and bolt it on. Then go to the track and start socializing with people who build, and learn from there.
The reason to bore an engine out is typically because the cylinder walls are worn (lots of miles), or damaged. You can bore an engine out for more displacement, but it does weaken the walls, so if the block is new or only has a few thousand miles on it, just hone the walls and install regular sized pistons.
Yes, the crank will determine the stroke, and contrary to what a couple people say here, you can get a stroker kit that requires very little machining (if any at all). In the past, if you wanted to build a stroker, you would start with a crank from a larger displacement motor and have it machined to work in your block. Then you would have to pay careful attention to the clearances, sometimes machining the block, and sometimes having to machine the pistons to clear the valves. It was very custom work back then, but these days you can buy everything you need, already machined, right off the shelf and as long as you buy from one place, it will most likely all work together.
Usually, a stroker cannot handle the RPM that a stock setup can.. The crank has more mass and is usually machined pretty close to the max size you can squeeze, and that never goes good with high revs. However, unless you are going for 20+ psi boost and massive power, there is no reason not to go with a stroked engine.
As was mentioned, if you want to go FI in the future, you want to build for it, which means lower compression. However, that means lower power when naturally aspirated. By doing a stroker, you can make up for the lower compression with more displacement, giving you decent performance now with the option for much much more in the future.
However, like I said in the beginning, if you are going to burn through $4k building a motor, I would recommend you start with a basic blower and go from there. That way you get 400+ rwhp now, and will know a lot better how much more you want to spend down the road for another 200 hp.
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2006 GT Premium Vert, 5 spd, Tungsten Grey Show: Painted gloss black stripes, Street Scene Gen 1 body kit, side and hood scoops, CDC light bar, sequential tails, purple underglow, 8" shorty antenna, redline hood struts, Steeda Ultralights, 20" Chrome Killers, S.O.S. pillar & 3 gauges. Go: J&M LCA's & Adj. UCA, J&M Adj. Panhard, CHE LCA reloc brackets & torque limiters, 3.73 gears, Kenne Bell Stage 1 2.6l supercharger.
...440rwhp/401rwtq
I can understand you wanting to do the wrench work yourself, but quite frankly, if you don't know the difference between an un-bored block and one that has been bored .020 over, I dont' know if taking on an engine build is for you. Start smaller.. get a Vortech V3 kit from Brenspeed and bolt it on. Then go to the track and start socializing with people who build, and learn from there.
The reason to bore an engine out is typically because the cylinder walls are worn (lots of miles), or damaged. You can bore an engine out for more displacement, but it does weaken the walls, so if the block is new or only has a few thousand miles on it, just hone the walls and install regular sized pistons.
Yes, the crank will determine the stroke, and contrary to what a couple people say here, you can get a stroker kit that requires very little machining (if any at all). In the past, if you wanted to build a stroker, you would start with a crank from a larger displacement motor and have it machined to work in your block. Then you would have to pay careful attention to the clearances, sometimes machining the block, and sometimes having to machine the pistons to clear the valves. It was very custom work back then, but these days you can buy everything you need, already machined, right off the shelf and as long as you buy from one place, it will most likely all work together.
Usually, a stroker cannot handle the RPM that a stock setup can.. The crank has more mass and is usually machined pretty close to the max size you can squeeze, and that never goes good with high revs. However, unless you are going for 20+ psi boost and massive power, there is no reason not to go with a stroked engine.
As was mentioned, if you want to go FI in the future, you want to build for it, which means lower compression. However, that means lower power when naturally aspirated. By doing a stroker, you can make up for the lower compression with more displacement, giving you decent performance now with the option for much much more in the future.
However, like I said in the beginning, if you are going to burn through $4k building a motor, I would recommend you start with a basic blower and go from there. That way you get 400+ rwhp now, and will know a lot better how much more you want to spend down the road for another 200 hp.
thankyou! tons of information that is extremely useful to me.
i think i will take your advice, and since i think i have decided on a turbo, rather than a blower, i think i will just save up the rest i need (a couple grand) and order it, i have a lot of friends and people on a local forum that know tons about turbo installations, and i think they can help me (one actually has a turbo s197, which he installed and had a friend tune, but i will be going to a professional for tuning) i figure low boost (i think 8 PSI puts me at something like 415) will do me in for a long time, and then when i save up enough for forged internal (probably a livernois set, since i have never heard anything negative about them, either customer service or product wise) i will pick that up, and look at either upgrading turbo, or just turning up the boost. the forged internals, i do not consider my level so i will be taking that to a local mustang shop.
I'm quite excited, and now i am just hoping i can sell my project car, and old truck soon!! if so, then the week after them, the turbo kit will be in the mail!
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Forged internals, Powerhouse Turbo
Remove Vinyl and put some paint on it
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I can understand you wanting to do the wrench work yourself, but quite frankly, if you don't know the difference between an un-bored block and one that has been bored .020 over, I dont' know if taking on an engine build is for you. Start smaller.. get a Vortech V3 kit from Brenspeed and bolt it on. Then go to the track and start socializing with people who build, and learn from there.
The reason to bore an engine out is typically because the cylinder walls are worn (lots of miles), or damaged. You can bore an engine out for more displacement, but it does weaken the walls, so if the block is new or only has a few thousand miles on it, just hone the walls and install regular sized pistons.
Yes, the crank will determine the stroke, and contrary to what a couple people say here, you can get a stroker kit that requires very little machining (if any at all). In the past, if you wanted to build a stroker, you would start with a crank from a larger displacement motor and have it machined to work in your block. Then you would have to pay careful attention to the clearances, sometimes machining the block, and sometimes having to machine the pistons to clear the valves. It was very custom work back then, but these days you can buy everything you need, already machined, right off the shelf and as long as you buy from one place, it will most likely all work together.
Usually, a stroker cannot handle the RPM that a stock setup can.. The crank has more mass and is usually machined pretty close to the max size you can squeeze, and that never goes good with high revs. However, unless you are going for 20+ psi boost and massive power, there is no reason not to go with a stroked engine.
As was mentioned, if you want to go FI in the future, you want to build for it, which means lower compression. However, that means lower power when naturally aspirated. By doing a stroker, you can make up for the lower compression with more displacement, giving you decent performance now with the option for much much more in the future.
However, like I said in the beginning, if you are going to burn through $4k building a motor, I would recommend you start with a basic blower and go from there. That way you get 400+ rwhp now, and will know a lot better how much more you want to spend down the road for another 200 hp.
Great post. There is one more very common reason that engine builders will bore a new block and that is to "square up" the cylinders. There is always a bit of core shift in the casting process and line honing the mains then squaring everything else off of that will net a far better "balaced" block. Almost all aftermarket blocks come bored undersized so when the shop bores and hones them they don't end up "over boring" to get the result they want. That's the downside to production blocks. They are alredy bored to the correct size so any clean up or squaring means they bore oversized which means if you damage a cylinder. At best you can hope that it can be re nickasyled (sp). I'm surprised no one has has stel liers for them yet. With steel liers you could get quite a few more C.I. out of them.
There is a company out there that started doing this on ricers but is now doing it on LS motors and that is the build more deck height in with a "plate" system that effectively gets bolted on and then bored honed. Betwee that and steel liners they have been able to increase C.I dramaticaly. I walked through Livernoise machine shop once and they were working on a Ford GT motor (supercar) and they were going all the way to 7L with it. They had whacked out all the cylinders ad were putting bigger, stronger replacements in. Pretty trick
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