2007 GT, MGW shifter is very high effort, very notchy, worst of all it difficult to up or down shift into second gear and difficult to up shift into fifth gear. Contacted MGW, they had no ideas that helped. Anyone had this problem and found a solution. I'm ready to put this shifter in the stack of other parts that didn't perform as advertised. Any help appreciated.
How many turns out do you have it set at? The shorter the pattern (more turns out) the notchier and stiffer the shift effort. Mine is sometimes difficult to get into reverse, but no other problems. Maybe it needs some lubrication in the pivot point.
Frank
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2008 GT Premium, Vapor Metallic, 5-speed stick w/MGW, GT500 front end, spoiler and replica wheels. Sequentials, GTA's, FRPP M6066M463V8 Whipple - can't wipe the smile off my face.
Mine has been getting a little rougher.
I was on the beta buy so was one of the 1st to have it, and the original bushings, not the updated ones. I think its time to swap those bushings maybe.
If your at the shorter end of the adjustment spectrum, 6+ turns, the down side is its much more difficult to shift the gears, simply because you have less leverage and a shorter travel to accomplish the same shift.
I like my shift short, im at 7 turns, started at 9 turns, even at 7 turns, its still notchy. What you can do to help this and get a il more leverage is to raise the shifter knob, this eliminated the notchyness for me. Take of your shift boot, lossen the allen bolts to the shift arm and take the block that joins the arm and the shifter itself off and flip it upside down, tighten it down. Now the shift arm, instead of puttin in the shift arm to be flush with the lower portion of the hole is sits in, put it in half way and tighten it down real good. Your shifter knob should be much higher than it was before, it may feel a bit wierd at first but youll get used to it, it will provide enough leverage for the short throw to be performed with less effort.
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2007 GT Convertible Premium 5 spd || FRPP HotRod Cams || Full Steeda Suspension w D-Specs || Brembo GT500 || Steeda CAI & Delete plates|| Flowmaster || Magnaflow catted X Pipe || MGW Shifter || Tuned by RealSpeed ||
If your at the shorter end of the adjustment spectrum, 6+ turns, the down side is its much more difficult to shift the gears, simply because you have less leverage and a shorter travel to accomplish the same shift.
I like my shift short, im at 7 turns, started at 9 turns, even at 7 turns, its still notchy. What you can do to help this and get a il more leverage is to raise the shifter knob, this eliminated the notchyness for me. Take of your shift boot, lossen the allen bolts to the shift arm and take the block that joins the arm and the shifter itself off and flip it upside down, tighten it down. Now the shift arm, instead of puttin in the shift arm to be flush with the lower portion of the hole is sits in, put it in half way and tighten it down real good. Your shifter knob should be much higher than it was before, it may feel a bit wierd at first but youll get used to it, it will provide enough leverage for the short throw to be performed with less effort.
By moving the shift knob up you are in effect lengthening the shift throw, one of the reasons you put an aftermarket shifter in there to begin with.
Frank
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2008 GT Premium, Vapor Metallic, 5-speed stick w/MGW, GT500 front end, spoiler and replica wheels. Sequentials, GTA's, FRPP M6066M463V8 Whipple - can't wipe the smile off my face.
Cmon guys, dont be silly. I have an MGW too and im all about a shorter shift. Putting in the MGW at 7 turns will make your throw 50% shorter, raising your handle will subtract maybe 3% at most, your still gonna have a short shift but you will in effect get more leverage and less "notch". When i first put it in, i had it at 8 turns and the knob as LOW as it could go, getting into 1st (although a short shift) was like a wrestling match, thats great for racing but it sux for cruising.
I had the same issue as the shifter as the "OP" and doing this made things right for me. the MGW still IS the best shifter out there and these is one of the main reasons, adjustability. you can make big changes by "turn" adjustments at the linkage and fine adjustments with the height of the knob.
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2007 GT Convertible Premium 5 spd || FRPP HotRod Cams || Full Steeda Suspension w D-Specs || Brembo GT500 || Steeda CAI & Delete plates|| Flowmaster || Magnaflow catted X Pipe || MGW Shifter || Tuned by RealSpeed ||
Cmon guys, dont be silly. I have an MGW too and im all about a shorter shift. Putting in the MGW at 7 turns will make your throw 50% shorter, raising your handle will subtract maybe 3% at most, your still gonna have a short shift but you will in effect get more leverage and less "notch". When i first put it in, i had it at 8 turns and the knob as LOW as it could go, getting into 1st (although a short shift) was like a wrestling match, thats great for racing but it sux for cruising.
I had the same issue as the shifter as the "OP" and doing this made things right for me. the MGW still IS the best shifter out there and these is one of the main reasons, adjustability. you can make big changes by "turn" adjustments at the linkage and fine adjustments with the height of the knob.
Its unavoidable when you keep talking about knobs! I've got a Hurst anyway so Im out!
Question: I got a great deal on a MGW and want to use my Hurst knob (the Hurst shifter just wasnt for me). I know that I will have to buy the 3/8-16 handle from MGW I just want to know, do I need that jam nut from the Hurst handle?
2007 Mustang GT MGW shifter problems 
