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Old 08-22-2009   #1 (permalink)
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Default Recommendations for Spark Plug Removal

Ok guy's need input here. I have read the many different threads on the potential nightmares of spark plug removal with the 5.4 and our beloved 4.6.

So getting ready to pull and replace my plugs and my concern is that I have two different TSB's. The first and oldest TSB 06-15-2 (dated 14 July 06) calls for a warm engine (hand touch after cool down) and use of AeroKroil or equivilant penetrating oil. The latest and second TSB 08-7-06 (dated April 1, 08) calls for the engine to be at room temperature and the use of Motorcraft Tune Up Carb Cleaner.

So, I really do not want to have any issues with this plug change and have one snap and end up at the stealership and spending gobs of money to have them dig a plug out of the head.

So what is the prefered method and most succesful that everyone has used ?

Oh the vehicle has 20k on the clock if that makes a difference.

Thanks in advance !
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Old 08-22-2009   #2 (permalink)
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Slightly warm engine and soaking the plug wells for a good hour. No more than 35 lb-ft when removing. If they don't break free with 35, soak them longer.
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Old 08-22-2009   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks, which fluid the AeroKroil or the Carb Cleaner ?
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Old 08-22-2009   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Baby II View Post
Thanks, which fluid the AeroKroil or the Carb Cleaner ?
See if you can find some Seafoam Deep Creep at Autozone. Works great.
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Old 08-22-2009   #5 (permalink)
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Alrighty then ! I'll go with it.

Just a bit concerned with all of the horror stories.

Oh forgot to tell ya, the reason I'm changing plugs is due to the installation of my new Paxton SL HO, can't wait !
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Old 08-22-2009   #6 (permalink)
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Let me know how that works out with the 4:10 gears. I was planning on buying the same supercharger.
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Old 08-22-2009   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WVUStang View Post
Let me know how that works out with the 4:10 gears. I was planning on buying the same supercharger.
Will do ! Everything I've read indicates that the Centri's like the 4:10's. It's supposidly enough to get you up into the power band quicker. I'm thinking it's going to be a different ride.

On another note does anyone now if the Autolite HT0 spark plugs share the same crappy design as the stock plugs ?
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Old 08-22-2009   #8 (permalink)
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I found 4.10s and a centrifugal to be a terrible combination. Made 1st and 2nd gear almost worthless.
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Old 08-22-2009   #9 (permalink)
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So did you go back to 3:55's or 3:73's ?

An opportunity that creates another challange for sure !
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Old 08-22-2009   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Baby II View Post
So did you go back to 3:55's or 3:73's ?

An opportunity that creates another challange for sure !
I switched to 3.73s. Even considered 3.55s for awhile.
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Old 08-22-2009   #11 (permalink)
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Well I'll give it a try and see how it works out. Definently do not need a sit and spin.

That's one of the reasons I choose the Centri cause it does not come on full (supposidly) until you get a bit higher into the power.

O'h I found the Seafoam so hope I'm all set.

Thanks !
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Old 08-23-2009   #12 (permalink)
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Default Just did mine yesterday..

Followed the latest TSB, with moderate success.

2005 68k on the motor..Figured while I’m on leave….time to get this done..
TSB followed to perfectly
6 of 8 came out.. second from the rear left and right broke off…. I was prepared for this, mentally and ability wise so when they did, I just kept going.. Wife and son were amazed at my calm… Both had insulators stuck..in the shield… so that was the first step.. I had ordered the lisle tool and it was to be on hand in the morning. But in the mean time,,, I wanted to see what I could do.. a 3/32 punch is a press fit in the center of the insulator after the top half and wire comes out.. So I welded a piece of 3/8 all thread to the punch. Used two bushings from a bearng driver set, one above the spacer (spacer is an impact socket) and one for the head.. Drove the punch/ all thread in to the insulator set up the puller.. and removed the insulator.. Worked on both plugs,, but much better on the first.. as the abrasive insulator shaved down the punch shaft.. Had to peen it a bit to get it to stick in the second plug.
Next up was to tap some threads in the shield, 3/8-16.. long tap extension is needed to get down there.. Put about 3 threads in the shield, threaded another all thread puller into the shield, bushings, spacer, bushing,, 3/8 nut… few turns of the nut and out popped the shield.
Used the rest of a can of Motorcraft carb cleaner and the shop vac to flush out debris in the cylinders (I recommend this step,, lots of carbon bits and some pieces of insulator was removed… vacuumed out the other 6 cylinders of the remaining carb cleaner..
Installed some fresh Champions.. coils on,, started,,,,,purrs like a kitten.

This was painless, and over all a simple process. With just a few $ in special custom built tools,, and nothing from the tool truck.

Last edited by stlwagon; 08-24-2009 at 03:32 PM.
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Old 08-23-2009   #13 (permalink)
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Super job! Way not to panic!
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Old 08-24-2009   #14 (permalink)
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when you put the new ones in, should you put some never-seize on them?
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Old 08-24-2009   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
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when you put the new ones in, should you put some never-seize on them?
Just a light coating on the plug barrel (where it seals against the head) just below the threads. Never on the threads themselves.
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