Looking for low psi supercharger for stock 2007 mustang gt manual tranny except for cai/tune I have....Looking to keep horsepower in the 400-450 range since from what I understand my stock car will be able to tolerate without engine damage even though I will need to upgrade suspension to get the power to the road instead of spinning. As far as Kenne Bell base 2.6 twin screw 5 psi vs edelbrock E force twin screw 5 psi what would you guys recommend as far as safe to not screw up my car as it is without any other mods. Safety to not destroy car is priority then power secondary....Or if you guys reccomend something else all together let me know....I am basing these 2 superchargers off the sticky in the forum and these are the 2 that are in the range as far as price and HP to not destroy my car. Thx for input in advance
you can forge your internals and put out any amount of hp and you wolnt damgage the engine but its like 4k more and 6 or 7k for a whipple so you looking at alot of money.. then unfourtunatly if you do that and forge things then your looking at alot of power.. more than the tranny, clutch, driveshaft, crankshaft..ect will hold and youll need a bigger fuel pump and fuel injectors. bassically wat im saying is that if you want that kiinda HP you gonna have to spend money to change almost everything under the hood. if you get a kb or whipple then just get it a good tune from a dyno and youllb fine without any mods to the engine.. suspension is a good idea too but with 450 hp it shouldnt be that big of a deal but none the less its something that should be done
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Ive been reading your posts and have some advice for you. If you absolutlely cant afford to fix and engine thats has blown up (rods, piston whatever) you should consider not supercharging. While ALOT of people have blowers and are makin 400+rwhp and have no problems there are those few who have. You can have the blower professionally installed and have the safest tune and have your rev limiter set at 6000prm and still have the engine go bye bye. Is it likely to happen? Probably not. But it can.
It seems you want a street car with some more power thats why you chose the twinscrew. Full boost a little above idle and big block feeling. Kenne Bell, Saleen, WHipple, FRPP and Techo have a kit that will suit your needs.
Then there are the Roots blowers. They will feel similar to the twin screw and make similar power. Roush TVS (Not the Roush Charger), EForce.
Since most of these blower are gonna make similar power its up to you to choose one based on price, how you like the looks of it, if there is a shop near you that specializes in that blower and what the kit contains. SOme kits(Including Tuner kits) will have a boostapump while others will have a fuel pump system. The boostapump is looked down on by some and liked by others. There are many threads with these arguments. If I could do mine over again I would get the GT500 fuel system instead of the boostapump.
Since it seems you are gonna have it professionally installed then hopefully they can tune it too. I would go with a kit that comes with an SCT tuner so you can take full advantage of custom email tunes and dyno tunes. Im not a big fan of how Saleen had you send in your computer to have it flashed. I bought a Saleen tuner kit and the company (brenspeed) included a SCT tuner and a custom(not dyno) tune with it. I was happy with it as far as it had a conservative A/F ratio and drives like stock.
Next are supporting mods. You dont need any. But if you wanna get the most out of your car when accelerating add at minimum Lower control arms.
When you start adding traction your clutch can go. My stock clutch started slipping after 6 1/4 mile runs. Unless you can do it yourself the clutch is expensive.
Im not trying to scare you out of your blower. Im just trying to let you know that adding a blower can be a fun and awesome experience. But for those with some bad luck it can mean you own a blown car with a blown up engine that you cant get fixed for a long time.
I have had my car blown since April and I have 9 1/4 mile passes and the car runs like stock. Im happy. Just know that this is gonna be expensive and it does not always end happily. Other than that good luck and I know you will love the POWER!!!
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2005 Ford Mustang GT Torch Red Manual
Saleen Supercharger 3.4 pulley/Brenspeed Tune
FRPP Stingers Axleback Muffler System
CHE Lower Control Arms
Pro-5.0 Super Shifter
CDC Sequential Tail Lights
Best ET NA: 13.408 @ 105.31
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Right now this is more doing research and finding out what best fits my needs...Im probrably not going to get a supercharger for at least half a year because like you said I need money in case something goes wrong and I need to fix my car or invest in more mods to handle the power. Thx for the help.
FloridaGators87, I am in the same boat as you. I have done a ton of research on all the available superchargers. I have pretty much decided on the Brenspeed Stage 1 Saleen kit (5psi) when I can affiord it. I have talked with several people that have installed kits with over 10 psi on stock motors without problems with the proper tune. I feel that the Stage 1 kit will be safe for the stock internals. I just want to keep my car dependable. Down the road I may go with forged internals, but even then I will keep the RWHP under 500. I don't want a dragster, just a bad a-- street car with cold air and a good stereo LOL. GO GATORS!!!!
Yea you about summed it up were in the same boat just need the money lol. Im gonna research that saleen s/c from brenspeed and compare it to what ive already researched....I just like to make lists of mods I want to make and then cross them off my list as I get them. Gators will be the 2009-2010 champs....Im thinking ford should come out with the 2011 Shelby Gator 1000 HP that only comes in blue or orange with a two tone interior blue/orange
FloridaGators87, I am in the same boat as you. I have done a ton of research on all the available superchargers. I have pretty much decided on the Brenspeed Stage 1 Saleen kit (5psi) when I can affiord it. I have talked with several people that have installed kits with over 10 psi on stock motors without problems with the proper tune. I feel that the Stage 1 kit will be safe for the stock internals. I just want to keep my car dependable. Down the road I may go with forged internals, but even then I will keep the RWHP under 500. I don't want a dragster, just a bad a-- street car with cold air and a good stereo LOL. GO GATORS!!!!
I'm in the same boat too, except I still haven't decided on which supercharger I am going with!! I am thinking the Saleen or Edelbrock for my Stang!
If you are not planning on going over 450hp the Whipple rocks. It’s sized just right. The drivability is almost OEM and they don’t have any belt tossing issues.
Only get the KB if you plan on going 600+ one day. They are a dog down low at 450hp because they need to be spun so slow.
Picking supercharger size is like picking carb size. If you get a carb just big enough for the motor/setup you have it will run great, have snappy throttle response, great torque and simply be easier to live with. If you get a carb that is too big it will be soft down low, have less torque an not give you an appreciable HP gain and if it does its minimal and only in the last 500rpm’s.
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I like the Whipple myself and have considered it, but I think the Saleen is more efficient from what I have read. It can produce similar power numbers to the Whipple with less boost. It uses long intake runners and has a more efficient air inlet design. I believe the Saleen is capable of producing around 20 - 25 more RWHP at the same boost levels as the Whipple. The Whipple is still a nice piece though. Right now I definately dont have the cash to get either one, but I am curious to see what Brenspeed comes up with as they are in the process of developing kits using the Edlebrock. This should be interesting.
I would not, under any circumstances, get a positive displacement (top mounted) supercharger without an intercooler.
Here is what you need to understand: While the weakness in the stock engine is the rods (and pistons), they are capable of handling quite a bit of power. As long as you stick to 10 psi or less, you have almost no chance of losing your engine, as long as you understand what kills an engine. Detonation under boost is the thing that will kill these engines. The reason is if you detonate too early, you put way more stress on the rod and piston, and under boost it can be devastating. Add RPM to that equation and you increase the chances exponentially.
I have never read or seen an instance where an engine with 10 psi or less blew for no other reason than running too much power. That is not to say it doesn't happen, but if it has, nobody ever talks about it.
So what do you have to do to prevent damage with boost? First and foremost, make 100% sure you don't put the wrong fuel in. Even a conservative tune will allow detonation if the fuel burns too easily. There is some disagreement as to whether ethanol in the fuel is good or bad, but personally, if you can avoid it, do so. Also, fueling up from a pump that has one hose and 3 buttons for fuel choice is BAD.. you are getting about a gallon of whatever the last guy pumped, even if you choose premium. Unless going from empty to full, look for a station with a hose for each grade of fuel. Finally, if you do get a bad tank of gas, you can either drain it, burn it all without getting into boost, or add some Torco brand octane boost. If you ignore it, you can blow your motor.
The other thing to watch out for is a custom tune. While you can most definitely improve on the power output with a custom tune, all a custom tune does is increase either spark advance or AF ratio. Either one leads to potential detonation. The canned tune you get with a KB or whipple or Edelbrock may be conservative, but they wouldn't send it if people were losing motors on it. The tuner at KB told me they had NEVER lost a motor in an S197 on their current tune, which has run since early 2005.
As for power, remember that some brands advertise Rear wheel horsepower and some advertise brake horsepower. The E-Force is rated at 466 BHP, or about 400 at the wheels. The KB stage 1 is rated at 501 rwhp, but realistically gets around 440 rwhp with the tune they send. The whipple gets about the same, and both run around 9 psi out of the box. That is for intercooled setups.
You will find non-intercooled positive displacement superchargers out there but they are limited to 5-6 psi of boost. The reason is anything higher with a top mounted supercharger will probably detonate when hot with more boost. A centri can run up to about 8 psi non-intercooled because it doesn't suffer as bad from heat soak and it only hits that boost level at the top RPM so it isn't running like that all the time, just in very short bursts.
If you are looking at the E-Force, the Whipple and KB are in your price range as they are all priced pretty closely. The E-Force is a great deal when found for around the $5600 mark (Tillman had it at that price last week, haven't checked recently), the KB's regular price for the stage 1 intercooled black kit is the same at $5600, and the whipple is a little more but if you find the right dealer you can get it pretty close to that price if you haggle a little. If you only want 400 rwhp and want to stay cheap, go with the non-intercooled vortech.. you will save almost 2 grand.
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2006 GT Premium Vert, 5 spd, Tungsten Grey Show: Painted gloss black stripes, Street Scene Gen 1 body kit, side and hood scoops, CDC light bar, sequential tails, purple underglow, 8" shorty antenna, redline hood struts, Steeda Ultralights, 20" Chrome Killers, S.O.S. pillar & 3 gauges. Go: J&M LCA's & Adj. UCA, J&M Adj. Panhard, CHE LCA reloc brackets & torque limiters, 3.73 gears, Kenne Bell Stage 1 2.6l supercharger.
...440rwhp/401rwtq
Well said KlrStng ! If I were to go with the Whipple, I would buy the intercooled kit and run the non intercooled pulley. I think that would be safe. I also agree with you on the Vortech. For the price it is very hard to beat. I have talked with Brenspeed about their kit for 3799.00. It is set up in the tune to pull timing as the inlet air temps increase to prevent detonation. I have also talked to someone in Jacksonville FL that is running a Novi at 8lbs without an intercooler on the stock internals and has not had any issues. His custom tune is set up to pull timing like the Vortech tune. He is making well over 400 RWHP in the Florida heat. That is not the route I plan to take, but it does show with proper tuning (eliminating detonation), these motors live well under moderate boost.
Kenne Bell vs Edelbrock 
