[KlrStng]

Okay, tonight I swapped injectors, hoping maybe a bad injector is the source of my cold run issues.

I pulled the drivers side bank first, there was no fuel pressure in the line, it had been sitting for 2 days. The Kenne Bell kit comes with a fuel hose that you run behind the engine, zip tied to the heater hoses, to connect to the passenger bank. Since it is impossible to remove once you attach it to the factory fuel rail, I cut the line, then used a razor to remove the piece on the rail. No problems there, the open end of the hose, which was still connected to the passenger side rail, dripped a few drops of gas but nothing much. I finished the driver side and reconnected everything, then went to the passenger side.

I removed the rail and popped the whole assembly loose, then grabbed a shear to cut the fuel line like I did on the driver side. When I cut it, there was pressure and fuel sprayed everywhere!!

Obviously, with the other end of that fuel line open and no pressure, this suggests a major obstruction in the fuel line that feeds the passenger bank, unless the fuel line is directional and has check valves in it..? The line is zip tied loosely to the heater hoses behind the supercharger, but I can pull it back and forth, so there is no way it's kinked or zipped too tight..

I put the rest of the injectors in and put it back together, and now my LTFTs are closer to each other (bank 1 and bank 2) but still about 5% apart. I am guessing that fuel line is the source of my problems, starving the passenger bank of fuel and causing all kinds of woe, although I might really be reaching.

so my questions are:
1) am I missing something? Is high pressure fuel hose directional? I can't imagine it is..
2) What size fuel hose connects to the factory rails?
3) Is there a dressed or braided type I can get if I decide to replace it and want to run it in front of the supercharger? I know nothing about high pressure fuel line..
4) Is there nicer fittings or whatever, and if so, what do I need to adapt to the barbed fitting on the factory fuel rails? What kind of fittings?

I don't want to change rails because so far everyone I see here that does aftermarket rails has problems, and the factory rails are good to like 600 or 700 hp..

[10/05gt]

This is exactly the same deal that has been giving me problems for the last month. I had the MMR fuel rails on my engine, they are rear crossover and have had all kinds of cold run problems. We changed the rails to front crossover and it was still the same. I went back to the OEM rails and it has cleaned up the fuel trims quite a bit and cold drive is much better. My plan is to get the car on the dyno the first of next week so hopefully I will have some good data then

[sqidd]

I’m pretty sure you are stuck using stock lines (or stock type) with the stock rails. They have those goofy connectors and converting them over to AN style fittings would require a very good Tig welder to put AN style fittings on the fuel rails and then you could switch over to braided.

Get some Fore Precision fuel rails and be done with it. They are fantastic (no I don’t have any, I have something else), they are a great company that takes great pride in there work and Justin, who I believe owns it is a super nice guy that will do anything it takes to make sure you are set up correctly. And in the big scheme of things they are CHEAP!

[KlrStng]

Originally Posted by sqidd

I’m pretty sure you are stuck using stock lines (or stock type) with the stock rails. They have those goofy connectors and converting them over to AN style fittings would require a very good Tig welder to put AN style fittings on the fuel rails and then you could switch over to braided.

Get some Fore Precision fuel rails and be done with it. They are fantastic (no I don’t have any, I have something else), they are a great company that takes great pride in there work and Justin, who I believe owns it is a super nice guy that will do anything it takes to make sure you are set up correctly. And in the big scheme of things they are CHEAP!

So you don't know if it would work to use a hose to AN adapter? And AN is pressure rated?

Maybe the best thing to do is find the hose that works and get a braiding kit for it.. Now I just have to find out the size of the fuel hose that fits the barbed connector..

[flounderlipps]

Sorry, I can't help with your fuel line problem.
Have you changed your fuel filter lately?
Also here is a place you can get your injectors cleaned and flow tested.

Injector-Rehab - Fuel injector cleaning, flow testing, and complete blueprinting service.

[KlrStng]

Originally Posted by flounderlipps

Sorry, I can't help with your fuel line problem.
Have you changed your fuel filter lately?
Also here is a place you can get your injectors cleaned and flow tested.

Injector-Rehab - Fuel injector cleaning, flow testing, and complete blueprinting service.

Yeah, I changed the pump, filter, injectors, throttle body, and maf sensor.

[stlwagon]

I'm convinced that rear feeding the rails was the cause of most of my problems. OEMs are working just find until something better comes along!

[clfrye]

Questions 3 and 4:

I replaced my fuel rails with Aeromotive pieces and the lines with AN-8 braided stainless steel lines and fittings. So, yes you can replace the lines with ANs and fittings, but you will also have to replace the fuel rails. Aeromotive sells and entire kit for normally aspirated GTs, but I bought my pieces individual to custom fit it around my Whipple SC. I had a problem with the tied fuel line leading to my fuel pressure sensor leaking, that is why I changed my setup.

[sqidd]

Originally Posted by clfrye

Questions 3 and 4:

I replaced my fuel rails with Aeromotive pieces and the lines with AN-8 braided stainless steel lines and fittings. So, yes you can replace the lines with ANs and fittings, but you will also have to replace the fuel rails. Aeromotive sells and entire kit for normally aspirated GTs, but I bought my pieces individual to custom fit it around my Whipple SC. I had a problem with the tied fuel line leading to my fuel pressure sensor leaking, that is why I changed my setup.

You found an adaptor that changes the fuel line connector coming from the tank to an AN style fitting?

[sqidd]

So you don't know if it would work to use a hose to AN adapter? And AN is pressure rated?

Not much point. The system would still only be pressure rated at what the barb/rubber hose can hadle even though the braided line and AN fittings are rated for about a billion psi.

Maybe the best thing to do is find the hose that works and get a braiding kit for it.. Now I just have to find out the size of the fuel hose that fits the barbed connector..

Just go with injection rubber line if you are doing this. Wraping it with braided jacketing won't increase its pressure resistance a bit.

[10/05gt]

Originally Posted by sqidd

Get some Fore Precision fuel rails and be done with it. They are fantastic (no I don’t have any, I have something else), they are a great company that takes great pride in there work and Justin, who I believe owns it is a super nice guy that will do anything it takes to make sure you are set up correctly. And in the big scheme of things they are CHEAP!

I just checked out their website and those rails are SWEEEEET and the price is great also. Thanks

[KlrStng]

Originally Posted by sqidd

Just go with injection rubber line if you are doing this. Wraping it with braided jacketing won't increase its pressure resistance a bit.

I show the car as much as I go, so looking good is important..

Update: I got some braided fuel line and installed it. It is rated to like 1000 psi, and the same inside diameter as the hose KB sent. Kenne Bell told me specifically NOT to put any other fuel line on than the stuff they send with the kit because their stuff is made specific for the barbed fitting on the factory lines. As usual, I took it with a grain of salt and put the braided line on anyway along with clamps, just to be safe. So far it isn't leaking..

As far as making a difference, doesn't seem to.. One bank is pulling more fuel than the other, and I still have the cold run issue. Since I have changed EVERYTHING else, I am back to the coils maybe being the issue..

Also, I am going to see if I can get my diablo tuner to load the tune that is in there now and allow me to modify it by leaning it out a bit.. I still think it is running too rich, and maybe that is the only problem.

So far, the new (used) throttle body seems to have helped the idle issue.. Idle has fluctuated a little a couple times so far, but only to maybe 600 rpm, not 300 like before.. Is it possible I have made some headway?

[10/05gt]

Here is another scenerio to throw into the mix.....like you don't already have enough things to think about. I didn't think of this till now and it is really a long shot but it may be worth a look.

When we first finished up my new engine it started fine and ran good once it was completely warm and the RPM's were 2500 or more. The cold drive and low end response however was horrid and every now and then it would set an 02 rich fault on bank 2. I attributed this to the new engine and a starter tune. We did a leak down on the engine after about 400 miles and it was less than 8psi across all the cylinders.

I trailed the car out to Brenspeed for dyno tuning and when Brent heard the car run for the first time he knew something was wrong with the engine and didn't even try to tune it. He asked if I had done a compression check and I said I hadn't but had leak down tested it. They did a compression test and to my surprise found all the cylinders on bank 2 had 90/95PSI and bank 1 had 145/150PSI.

The assumption was that I had installed that cam wrong. I re-degreed the cams again and that cam was 18 degrees retarded. So I pulled the front of the engine down again and checked timing marks and it was two teeth off. If you do the math that comes out to 9* not 18*. Lined everthing back up and it was still 9* off. Long story short. Got a new cam and new tensioners and it has stayed in time but then I got VCT knock but thats a whole different story.

Anyway I know you are still running the stock cams but it may really be worth your while to do a compression test if you havn't already.

[KlrStng]

Originally Posted by 10/05gt

Here is another scenerio to throw into the mix.....like you don't already have enough things to think about. I didn't think of this till now and it is really a long shot but it may be worth a look.

When we first finished up my new engine it started fine and ran good once it was completely warm and the RPM's were 2500 or more. The cold drive and low end response however was horrid and every now and then it would set an 02 rich fault on bank 2. I attributed this to the new engine and a starter tune. We did a leak down on the engine after about 400 miles and it was less than 8psi across all the cylinders.

I trailed the car out to Brenspeed for dyno tuning and when Brent heard the car run for the first time he knew something was wrong with the engine and didn't even try to tune it. He asked if I had done a compression check and I said I hadn't but had leak down tested it. They did a compression test and to my surprise found all the cylinders on bank 2 had 90/95PSI and bank 1 had 145/150PSI.

The assumption was that I had installed that cam wrong. I re-degreed the cams again and that cam was 18 degrees retarded. So I pulled the front of the engine down again and checked timing marks and it was two teeth off. If you do the math that comes out to 9* not 18*. Lined everthing back up and it was still 9* off. Long story short. Got a new cam and new tensioners and it has stayed in time but then I got VCT knock but thats a whole different story.

Anyway I know you are still running the stock cams but it may really be worth your while to do a compression test if you havn't already.

OKAY, now you have me worried.. When the supercharger first went in they sent the wrong tune for the MAF setup, and it was running super lean (like 13:1 at WOT and about 16:1 off throttle). I didn't drive for long that way, but perhaps something got damaged.. I would think there would be gas in the oil if that were the case though.. I do get a lot of oil in the oil seperator, but from what I have read that is normal on the supercharged engines..

I hope it isn't something like that.. Maybe a compression test when cold isn't a bad idea..

[stlwagon]

I doubt that you damaged anything internally.