How are the clutches in a 2007 mustang gt? What are they rated for HP and mileage wise? Wondering why clutch is easy to push in after drag racing on quarter mile? Is the clutch going bad or is due to the high rpm shifting? How will I know when clutch is going bad and what is a good clutch to upgrade to for a Naturally aspirated car? Thx in advanced
anywhere from 100-100,000 miles. Depends on how you drive.
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Wondering why clutch is easy to push in after drag racing on quarter mile?
It’s a hydraulic actuated clutch so it will have less pedal effort than a cable actuated clutch. And when you pound on it and it gets heat soaked the fluid tends to get real hot and sometimes boil which will make for a soft pedal. The clutch line is also plastic so when it heats up it “balloons” which makes for less pedal effort. Some real good fluid and a FR500CJ clutch line solves most of those problems.
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Is the clutch going bad or is due to the high rpm shifting?
Is there a question that makes sense in there somewhere?
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How will I know when clutch is going bad
The RPM's will climb faster than the MPH
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what is a good clutch to upgrade to for a Naturally aspirated car?
DFM
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Thx sqidd you always have the answers.....my high RPM shifting question was worded wrong.... I meant Power Shifting it.
Power shift is easier on the clutch (as long as its not slipping) because when power shifting its either “on” or “off”. The clutch does not wear when it is “on” or “off”, only when it is slipping.
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Under Construction. Better, Stronger, Faster than it was before.
anywhere from 100-100,000 miles. Depends on how you drive.
It’s a hydraulic actuated clutch so it will have less pedal effort than a cable actuated clutch. And when you pound on it and it gets heat soaked the fluid tends to get real hot and sometimes boil which will make for a soft pedal. The clutch line is also plastic so when it heats up it “balloons” which makes for less pedal effort. Some real good fluid and a FR500CJ clutch line solves most of those problems.
Is there a question that makes sense in there somewhere?
The RPM's will climb faster than the MPH
DFM
Ummmm, where did you learn about that clutch line Glad you are spreading the knowledge! I don't have much time for forums anymore.
You missed big fun Saturday! 2 vettes bit the wall
2006 Legend Lime GT: Samco, Metco, LPW, Brembo 6 pot brakes with floating rotors, Magnacharger with 8-Rib, LubeLocker, Royal Purple, FR500S front end, APR Performance Carbon Fiber Rear Wing, Roll bar, 10 qt upgraded oil system...Thank you Capaldi Racing for all your help! 2007 Mustang GT/CS : Wife's Car, Magnacharged too. 1966 Mustang GT-K Code Coupe: Restored
Most of our customers with mild daily driving and a few weekend runs will get about 30,000 or so miles before noticing slippage. At 400rwhp the stock clutch will not live long.
Depending on driving style, a lightened billet STEEL flywheel works amazing with these cars without sacrifcing harmonic issues with their aluminum counterparts.
Both SPEC and EXEDY USA make really nice single disc clutches that have very little chatter in 1st gear. I would go wit the latter since it has better pricing right now. Shoot me an e-mail if you want any information.
Last edited by CathyHalliday; 10-05-2009 at 02:08 PM.
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If I want to replace my clutch do I replace the flywheel also? And how much estimated between buying the parts and getting them installed will it cost for a future upgrade? (Not doing it myself)
If I want to replace my clutch do I replace the flywheel also? And how much estimated between buying the parts and getting them installed will it cost for a future upgrade? (Not doing it myself)
Well, it kills me to tell you this, as it isn't good for business
Get your stock p/plate rebuilt, get your flywheel cut, or get an SFI approved billet steel one if you are going to continue to drag race and (here we go...)
The Roush P51 disc. It's made by for them by Exedy. Same disc as the Mach 500. I have 475rwhp and that's all I use
Also, GET THE FR500CJ line. That is why your pedal is "easy".
Most of my customers are pushing more than 400 rwhp, so they end up needing a whole set up.
Install costs varies. Parts too. You have to determine how much you plan to do in the future.
Do yourself a favor, and DO NOT buy the "blue" pressure plate brand of clutch. Ask Tbrock, myself, and dozens of others. I can't give examples or name companies by name that have quit using them, as I don't need a lawsuit on my hands. But I dropped them from my line up after multiple failures in a row and a damaged p/plate OUT OF THE BOX that was cracked during assembly. They claimed UPS dropped it
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2006 Legend Lime GT: Samco, Metco, LPW, Brembo 6 pot brakes with floating rotors, Magnacharger with 8-Rib, LubeLocker, Royal Purple, FR500S front end, APR Performance Carbon Fiber Rear Wing, Roll bar, 10 qt upgraded oil system...Thank you Capaldi Racing for all your help! 2007 Mustang GT/CS : Wife's Car, Magnacharged too. 1966 Mustang GT-K Code Coupe: Restored
My stock clutch has been holding up pretty well. I have 53,000 miles on the car. I have only minor bolt ons. I have taken the car down the strip about over 20 times, so the clutch has not been babied in any way.
Beagle1 speaks the truth! I am on my 2nd "blue" clutch this one has held up fairly well although now it has an annoying noise intemittenly when I take off or hit 2nd. Ford thinks it is a "hot spot" I think it is a throw out bearing, as it has been happening since the install. (yes a new bearing was used). Anyway my first "blue clutch" went bad and they warrantied it, my other "purple" clutch also went quickly and upon inspection it was warrantied as well (ebayed the replacement). Get the FRP braided line, and use a high temp synthetic fluid. Just for Future reference I tried an aluminum flywheel and I didn't care for it. I like the feel of a steel plate, but i would upgrade to a better one than the stock unit. If I had my way I would put in a GT500 setup and be done.
You know, I never did send in my "purple" twin disc set up after the 5 passes and fail scenerio. I did let D&D know, as Don Jr. wanted me to fill him in if it failed. It's been almost a year, I probably should at least see if they'll fix it for a fee at this point so I can sell it.
Personally I think S197 cars are to heavy for an aluminum flywheel, unless you are using a twin-disc that works which adds the weight back.
Tbrock, I can never thank you enough for all the feedback last year while I was doing all the R&D and testing. Everything that happened on my car happened to yours or vise-versa. A double blind test so to say. With the SAME parts. Myth-Busters would be proud
Word must be out on the "blue" clutches. I couldn't ebay either of the new ones I had left for $400 WITH a steel SFI flywheel and FREE SHIPPING. So I GAVE THEM AWAY to the local club for a raffle.
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2006 Legend Lime GT: Samco, Metco, LPW, Brembo 6 pot brakes with floating rotors, Magnacharger with 8-Rib, LubeLocker, Royal Purple, FR500S front end, APR Performance Carbon Fiber Rear Wing, Roll bar, 10 qt upgraded oil system...Thank you Capaldi Racing for all your help! 2007 Mustang GT/CS : Wife's Car, Magnacharged too. 1966 Mustang GT-K Code Coupe: Restored
Glad to help.... I think although I would have preferred not to spend the extra $$$ chasing a clutch issue.
I really did not like the "feel" of my zoom twin disc with the aluminum fly wheel. Still made the car "peaky" at the lights. Seemed to take more to get the car moving.
I had the same problem with the "Blue" clutch but I am kind of glad I couldn't/didn't sell it so I had a back up when the zoom cut loose. At least I had very little down time.
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Originally Posted by Beagle1
You know, I never did send in my "purple" twin disc set up after the 5 passes and fail scenerio. I did let D&D know, as Don Jr. wanted me to fill him in if it failed. It's been almost a year, I probably should at least see if they'll fix it for a fee at this point so I can sell it.
Personally I think S197 cars are to heavy for an aluminum flywheel, unless you are using a twin-disc that works which adds the weight back.
Tbrock, I can never thank you enough for all the feedback last year while I was doing all the R&D and testing. Everything that happened on my car happened to yours or vise-versa. A double blind test so to say. With the SAME parts. Myth-Busters would be proud
Word must be out on the "blue" clutches. I couldn't ebay either of the new ones I had left for $400 WITH a steel SFI flywheel and FREE SHIPPING. So I GAVE THEM AWAY to the local club for a raffle.
2007 Mustang GT Clutch Questions 
Glad you are spreading the knowledge! I don't have much time for forums anymore. 
It's made by for them by Exedy. Same disc as the Mach 500. I have 475rwhp and that's all I use 
