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Old 10-10-2009   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by LS1EATINPONY View Post
that sounds nice!!!! How much would i be lookin at for cams springs and all the goodies to wake the demon under the hood?
It cost me about 6 hours of labor to get the NSR HotRod Cams installed, you figure with springs your looking at 12 hours of work. I dont know how much your shop of choice charges for labor but it will be in the neighborhood of $1,000 +, im a DIY'er but i felt you need to have a clean facility, the tools and some experience to do this job right so i outsourced it. Also, Dyno tuning is key with any of these modular motor cams, im sure you can get an email tune cheaper but if you want all the power you can get from this mod you need to get ont hat Dyno, you figure thats another $300+ and ofcaorse, the cams, springs and limiters themselves.
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Old 10-10-2009   #17 (permalink)
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Beagle I'm surprised to hear you say that. Have you done a spring swap on these heads ? I haven't done it but everybody I've talked to says it's a nightmare.

I do also beg to differ on the FRPP cams not making power. I made ~25rwhp due to the cams(pre delete plates) and Ford says this too. I know without the cams I would be around 305 to the wheels. They work well with the nitrous and you seem to like them with boost. The key is the tuning.

I do agree if you're looking for every last drop of HP juice go ahead and change springs. I just feel you're getting into serious NA build and to take on all that extra work and risk you might as well get blown.
Yup, lot of spring swaps, on lots of different engines, including 3v. It's not much harder IMO than changing the cams once you get that close. But after 28 yrs of doing it, it like putting pants on.

The FRPP cams can make power on NA, but they are a compromise to maintain full VVT and not change springs. Personally, with what RPM they say they are good to, I'd change my springs too if I was NA.

I only run to 6250 and under 10 psi of boost. High boost AND high RPM does require spring changes.

You are right about the "may as well get blown." There will be a lot of parts on ebay soon from people that through tons of parts on cars to stay NA and then never go fast enough, they either go for a ride in or get beat by an NA car and then have to buy a blower.

Look at STL...NA NA NA...BOOST

As for cost to swap cams WITH SPRINGS AND PHASER MODS.

Book time to change springs is 9.5 hrs. using the service manual procedure. So multiply that times your shops labor rate. So around this area most shops get $90 an hour, that would be $855 labor. $300 for a dyno day. $1155.

Cams $700, springs $285, cam lube $10, retainers $80, phaser limiters $185, oil change $60 = $1320

Parts + Labor = $2475

When I do the cams for people I take the front cover off too. I don't like the Service Manual technique. It's to easy to break the chain guides trying to keep the chain from falling off. And if the chain does move, and you don't know it, you will be taking it back apart. It hasn't happened to me, because I take the cover off, but I know of a couple shops, some very well known, that had to take the engine BACK apart even further, because the chains moved.

While the cover is off it's a good chance to paint or powder coat it and paint that crank damper that's all rusty because Ford stopped having Metaldyne paint them to save $$$.

It take so little time to remove the cover once you are that close, I don't understand not doing it. But that's me. After 10 yrs at the dealer and having to do things the FAST and dirty way, I love taking my time and doing it PROFESSIONALLY.
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Old 10-10-2009   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beagle1 View Post
Yup, lot of spring swaps, on lots of different engines, including 3v. It's not much harder IMO than changing the cams once you get that close. But after 28 yrs of doing it, it like putting pants on.

The FRPP cams can make power on NA, but they are a compromise to maintain full VVT and not change springs. Personally, with what RPM they say they are good to, I'd change my springs too if I was NA.

I only run to 6250 and under 10 psi of boost. High boost AND high RPM does require spring changes.

You are right about the "may as well get blown." There will be a lot of parts on ebay soon from people that through tons of parts on cars to stay NA and then never go fast enough, they either go for a ride in or get beat by an NA car and then have to buy a blower.

Look at STL...NA NA NA...BOOST

As for cost to swap cams WITH SPRINGS AND PHASER MODS.

Book time to change springs is 9.5 hrs. using the service manual procedure. So multiply that times your shops labor rate. So around this area most shops get $90 an hour, that would be $855 labor. $300 for a dyno day. $1155.

Cams $700, springs $285, cam lube $10, retainers $80, phaser limiters $185, oil change $60 = $1320

Parts + Labor = $2475

When I do the cams for people I take the front cover off too. I don't like the Service Manual technique. It's to easy to break the chain guides trying to keep the chain from falling off. And if the chain does move, and you don't know it, you will be taking it back apart. It hasn't happened to me, because I take the cover off, but I know of a couple shops, some very well known, that had to take the engine BACK apart even further, because the chains moved.

While the cover is off it's a good chance to paint or powder coat it and paint that crank damper that's all rusty because Ford stopped having Metaldyne paint them to save $$$.

It take so little time to remove the cover once you are that close, I don't understand not doing it. But that's me. After 10 yrs at the dealer and having to do things the FAST and dirty way, I love taking my time and doing it PROFESSIONALLY.
I also wondered why it is not done this way to make sure it gets done right.You have to prime the chain tensioners,correct?
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Old 10-11-2009   #19 (permalink)
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I also wondered why it is not done this way to make sure it gets done right.You have to prime the chain tensioners,correct?
Not really. I have learned over the years, especially on engine dynos, it's almost impossibly to prime a gerotor oil pump on a "dry" engine with the starter. That includes a fresh empty oil filter (I pre-fill mine)

For a full out race engine many people prime them externally with a power pump. There is no other way.

But if you start one, they make INSTANT oil pressure. I just bump the key and when it fires I shut it off. Then you can usually disable to fuel pump and crank it and see if a prressure gauge reads.

There is no reason to do it for the tensioners, the chains won't jump, just make noise, as will the phasers until they fill with oil.

Back BEFORE the 3v engine the tensioners had rachets on them. They could come out and not go back in unless released while clamped in a vise. The design is cheapened up now I like the old style ones. After assemlbly you could pull it out a little and "pre-load" it.

As for oil to the new cams. I use so much pre-load that it could run without oil. I also have started installing new lifters on pre-07 cars due to the TSB for the noise. More and more are starting to get lifter noise.

For the cost quote I forgot to include (2) new phaser bolts at $20.
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Old 10-11-2009   #20 (permalink)
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When i got my heads/cams/longtubes installed. I paid oly $85.00 an Hour and he worked on the car for 24hours. So it came out to be $2,040.00

But i also needed some extra parts.

-Exhaust Slip on clamps from Ford.
-MLS Headgaskets,Ford OEM gaskets.
-Timing chain tensioners
-Timing cover gaskets,including front crank seal
-Valve cover gaskets
-Seal for oil pressure solenoid on valve cover
-Custom Tuning, includes tuning vehicle on&off the dyno. Roadtest tuning with A/F monitoring and datalogging.

I also got a 160$ discount b/c he bought my Bassani Xpipe for his wifes 2005GT. And i got my Valve Covers Powdercoated for 90$ each.

My total was $2,950 For everything i jsut listed in this reply.

I figured i made out pretty good.
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Old 10-11-2009   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by RedFire07GT View Post
When i got my heads/cams/longtubes installed. I paid oly $85.00 an Hour and he worked on the car for 24hours. So it came out to be $2,040.00

But i also needed some extra parts.

-Exhaust Slip on clamps from Ford.
-MLS Headgaskets,Ford OEM gaskets.
-Timing chain tensioners
-Timing cover gaskets,including front crank seal
-Valve cover gaskets
-Seal for oil pressure solenoid on valve cover
-Custom Tuning, includes tuning vehicle on&off the dyno. Roadtest tuning with A/F monitoring and datalogging.

I also got a 160$ discount b/c he bought my Bassani Xpipe for his wifes 2005GT. And i got my Valve Covers Powdercoated for 90$ each.

My total was $2,950 For everything i jsut listed in this reply.

I figured i made out pretty good.
I'd say you did OK

More or less, you got the heads swapped and the headers installed for free, which would have been easier with the heads off. So it was win'win.

Book time for head R&R on a Mustang is 24.1 hrs. That is with Ford's remove the engine procedure, which I am still not getting

Good guy that replaced the other gaskets too. You can reuse the timing and cam cover gaskets most of the time, but they are so inexpensive it's not worth the risk.
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