I want to install an aluminum 1 piece DS, however, I have read that lowered cars may have issues.
Is this true? I have Steeda Ultralight Lowering Springs. Will I have problems?
Are there solutions to correcting the angle issue?
Specifically, what do I need to buy, besides the DS to avoid vibration or whinning issues?
Thanks, I trust your opinions and experiences...
It all depends you may need a adjustable panhard bar. Also are you going with a 4 inch DS? I would get the power house drive shaft. I think Squidd has one in the classsifieds.
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Airraid CAI/BAMA tune,moto blue pullies,3:73`s,LPW girdle;Powerhouse DS,CHE safety loop,CHE LCA`S & Adjustable UCA,Kooks LT`S & O/R X Pipe,prothane MM`s,Steeda CMDP`S,Eibach springs,Tokico D specs,Polished TB(by Me),Steeda radiator support,MT DR`S,Zex kit 100 shot. Taylor Relocation batter kit and cut off switch
11:933 ET, 1.674 60`,111.877 MPH 5600 feet above sea level 6900 D/A
Hey Joe how ya been? Still working on your baby huh? I have contemplated the 1 pc drive shaft and gears myself but have not got around to it. Let me know how it works out for you or if you need any help.
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06 Vista Blue Premium GT, Automatic, CDC Shaker Hood System, Pioneer AVIC Z2 DVD/ Navigation System with Rear View Camera, Rear Window and 1/4 window Louvers, CDC Classic Chin Spoiler, SHR Honeycomb Panel, Stainless Tail light Bezels, FRPP Stingers, 3D Carbon Side Scoops, C&L Street CAI, SCT X2 W/ 93 Street-Race Tune, Sequential Turn Signals, CDC Hood Struts, TCI Street Fighter Shifter
Hey Joe how ya been? Still working on your baby huh? I have contemplated the 1 pc drive shaft and gears myself but have not got around to it. Let me know how it works out for you or if you need any help.
Thanks to Executioner and all. It seems like this mod may be a sure thing soon. Just need to finish paying for my custom interior panels and the labor for my sound barrier stuff.
For my next performance mods, I will go with a aluminum DS, Ceramic coated shorty headers and possibly a bigger TB.
I see lots of WTFs and panic threads in my future!!
I want to install an aluminum 1 piece DS, however, I have read that lowered cars may have issues.
Is this true? I have Steeda Ultralight Lowering Springs. Will I have problems?
Are there solutions to correcting the angle issue?
Specifically, what do I need to buy, besides the DS to avoid vibration or whinning issues?
Thanks, I trust your opinions and experiences...
First it should be defined as what it is. It is not a driveline “vibration” problem but a driveline harmonics issue.
There is no way of guaranteeing that you will not have harmonics issues. Contributing factors to driveline vibrations are:
Driveline angles
Driveshaft balance
Harmonics from the rear end which includes a change to the gear, diff, axles, bracing, cover, etc can all contribute to driveline harmonics.
The wheels and tires you are running can contribute to driveline harmonics.
The upper and lower control arms you are using can contribute to driveline harmonics.
The springs and shocks can affect it too.
Going with an aluminum shaft opposed to a steel shaft will affect harmonics even if they are the exact same design.
Pretty much anything can cause a driveline harmonics problems depending on the specific combination of parts. That’s why some people have no driveline harmonics issues and some do. There does seem to be a trend of the more aftermarket parts you have in your driveline the more likely you are to experience driveline harmonics issues though. That being said there are stone stock cars out there with harmonics problems.
Next will come a ton of posts from people telling you if they do or do not have driveline harmonics issues and what driveshaft they are running. Unless you are planning on driving their car that information is useless to you. Unfortunately going with a 1pc aluminum driveshaft is a crap shoot.
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Under Construction. Better, Stronger, Faster than it was before.
Unfortunately going with a 1pc aluminum driveshaft is a crap shoot.
It amazes me how these cars are so different.They all seem to be a bit differant in many ways. Some have more HP and others less HP. Some like the DS some do`nt. I have the powerhouse and it is ok up to 135 then I feel some vibration. I am quite happy with it,I do not go faster than that all that often. I need it because I go to the dragstrip,I do not trust that 2 piece.
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Airraid CAI/BAMA tune,moto blue pullies,3:73`s,LPW girdle;Powerhouse DS,CHE safety loop,CHE LCA`S & Adjustable UCA,Kooks LT`S & O/R X Pipe,prothane MM`s,Steeda CMDP`S,Eibach springs,Tokico D specs,Polished TB(by Me),Steeda radiator support,MT DR`S,Zex kit 100 shot. Taylor Relocation batter kit and cut off switch
11:933 ET, 1.674 60`,111.877 MPH 5600 feet above sea level 6900 D/A
You can always contact the manufacturer and see if they have had any experience with customer cars. If you took a quick glance at mine you would tell me it is on backwards. I actually had the u-joints reversed to place the the splined slip joint closer to the tranny output flange. This actually worked for me and greatly reduced the harmonics. You can always ask them to build to your specs. Ask them to reverse the weld yokes and u-joints and see if they can insert additional dampening material without running the risk of burning up the additional material during welding and straigntening. The dampening material is usually just a cardboard tube and it's weight is relatively insignificant. I would be willing to put money on this shaft being free of harmonics.
I have the powerhouse and it is ok up to 135 then I feel some vibration. I am quite happy with it,I do not go faster than that all that often. I need it because I go to the dragstrip,I do not trust that 2 piece.
How to tell if you have vibration problems:
First, get your speed up to 135 MPH.
Thanks BKid. I think my problems multiply at that range!
But you are right, our cars are so unique, only after application, can we tell how things fared.
Next will come a ton of posts from people telling you if they do or do not have driveline harmonics issues and what driveshaft they are running. Unless you are planning on driving their car that information is useless to you. Unfortunately going with a 1pc aluminum driveshaft is a crap shoot.
A most elegant answer, only a few can appreciate your candor.
I will take the leap soon and let the levee break...
Until you really start making some serious HP and combine that with traction there really isn't a good reason to go to a 1pc DS. Ford spent a lot of $$$$ designing the DS to be reliable and smooth. Yes the 2pc is most likely weaker but the benefits gained by reducing the harmonics far out weighs that.
Lets face it; the 2pc has to cost more money for the OEM to manufacture than a 1pc and we all know that reducing cost is one of the OEM's priorities. So with that said; if Ford had thought they could make a 1pc operate as smoothly as a 2pc they most likely would have used a 1pc shaft.
Oh BTW. I run a 1pc DS
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