[Yandall]

Does anyone know how to obtain a wiring diagram for an 05 mustang? I am mainly interested in the wiring diagram as applied to the Shaker 500 audio system. I would like to install aftermarket components but, do not want some accessory guy "rigging" anything. Please help with any usefule information you may have.........

[mustangtk]

I work at a dealer and we haven't even received the wiring diagrams yet. We first receive the service manual and wiring diagrams on DVD. The newest DVD has the service manual, but not the wiring diagrams. We haven't received the books yet, they might be making changes to them. The DVD has no information on how the MyColor display works or how to diagnois it.

[Yandall]

I had the console disassemble last night to take look at the wiring. It appears that the subwoofers must have their own amps (maybe in the doors). Also, there's no easily accessable auxilary input. I assume you have to use one of the three plugs in the rear of the Shaker head unit.

If anyone wants to know how to do it, ask. It is pretty simple once you figure out where all the hidden connectors are. I can post a thread if anyone is interested. I should have taken pictures but, it was almost like Christmas and I couldn't be slowed down.

I don't know if I can wait until wiring diagrams are available. It will probably be next to impossible to get one without buying off a Ford Techy. Looks like I might have to get the multimeter out.

[Kevin B]

Any hidden screws or gotchas during console disassembly and what the heck is the auxillary port for anyway? How involved does changing the factory 5 X 7s on the rear deck look like?

Thanks
KB

[Yandall]

Ok the console is simple to remove.

The console is actually in two pieces. If you look at fromthe side you will notice two different textures. These are two seperate pieces.

1. Remove the two phillips heads screws under the lid of the center console. The screw are located in the rear corners.
2. Unscrew the gear shifter. Be sure you hold on to the leather boot. It might twist.
3. Remove the boot and shifter by gently pressing inward on the plastic boot bezel. It will come right off without much effort.
4. You will now be able to see the two different pieces once the boot is removed. Insert a large screwdiver wrapped with a wrag (to prevent scratching) between the two pieces and gently pry them apart.
5. Apply the parking brake so that it is out of the way.
6. Once the two pieces are seperated, you should be able to pull the entire top piece out of the way. (I had visions of covering the top piece in leather but, can't visualize the cup holder thing).
7. Pull the two trim pieces on either side of the radio console straight out. Not much effort is needed here.
8. Now you should be looking at the radio and climate controls. You should be able to see scres holding the panel.
9. Before removing the panel, reach behind on the driver's side and disconnect the blower switch. Place a large screwdriver into the retaining clip an pull off the connector.
10. Reach behind the panel on the passenger side and disconnect the air flow connector. This one is easy. Just puch the gray lever upwards and the connector will come right off. It works off of a cam. I am unfamiliar with this type of switch and it took much deliberation and a trip to the beer frig. to figure it out.
11.Disconnect the screws on the panel and pull out.
12. If you have the interior upgrade, you will disconnect at this time. Pretty straight forward and the panel comes far enough out to do it while sitting in the seat.
13.Now you should be able to see the screws holding the head unit in place. Simply un-screw and remove
14. I found it easier to pull out slightly and turn clockwise. This gave me enough room to reach around and disconnect the connectors.
15. Your done.

I believe the sub amps are in the door. Not one anywhere near the head unit. The silver box under the head unit is the restraint controller. DON'T TOUCH IT. You can purchase a generic adapter that plugs into the harness that has pigtails ( I think ). Looks like standard plugs. I don't know what the schematic says so, I don't know what's what. I haven't metered it yet.

As far as the rear speakers, they look pretty straight forward. They have a clip in each corner but, it apears to be mounted from the top of the rear deck. I am going to meter them to find out what type of adapter is needed to add an aftermarket sub. I don't think the factory sub is worth it. For $1295, I can install a sub that will explode the trunk.

Hope this helps. Please pass on any info you find in regards to the wiring diagram. I hoping someone will do the work before I do.

Note -- It will probably take about half an hour to remove the radio. It took me about three hours to figure it out. I should be rich after everyone pays me for the time I saved them.

[Kevin B]

Thanks for the poop on the console, sounds like a 2 beer job. I have the shaker 1000 and will scope out the wiring for the sub. I am hoping that they have kept the wiring harness the same on both models. If thats the case then its just matching whats left over at the head on your model. The only reason I went with the sub is the fact that custom enclosures like from crutchfiled are so expensive and the time mounting, wiring and part & pieces adds up. I agree that 1200 bucks is a little excessive. When you do get your sub up and running the trunk will rattle until you fix the plastic cover over the trunk release.
It looks like you have to remove all the trim around the back seats and windows to get to the screws for the rear deck speakers. I have tried to get the covers off from the top but they are glued and snapped in.

Thanks Again

[Yandall]

I was actually going to order the sub but, when I went to TX on business, a dealership had the exact color and everything but the sub. So, here I am.

I noticed that there is a plug on the passenger side rear speaker that has a lot more wires going to it than are needed for the speaker. I wonder if that is the plug for the sub from the factory? If it is, all I need to do is tap into it for an aftermarket.

[Kevin B]

I will check the sub wiring and let you know what I find. My GT is at the dealers getting the shipping scratches and defects repaired, get it back Monday Tues at the latest will have answers then.

[Kevin B]

The wiring for the sub is actually in the lower right hand bottom corner of the trunk. Check and see if you have this big connector and wires under there, if so i will meter them out. The wires and pug from the passenger side rear speaker go to the trunk release.

[Yandall]

I called Scosche and they say they are working on a harness. All the speakers are 2ohm but wired parallel so they are 4ohm. They have a harness for the speaker output, power, etc. but are still working on one to run the amps.

[drjones633]

Originally Posted by Yandall

Ok the console is simple to remove.

The console is actually in two pieces. If you look at fromthe side you will notice two different textures. These are two seperate pieces.

1. Remove the two phillips heads screws under the lid of the center console. The screw are located in the rear corners.
2. Unscrew the gear shifter. Be sure you hold on to the leather boot. It might twist.
3. Remove the boot and shifter by gently pressing inward on the plastic boot bezel. It will come right off without much effort.
4. You will now be able to see the two different pieces once the boot is removed. Insert a large screwdiver wrapped with a wrag (to prevent scratching) between the two pieces and gently pry them apart.
5. Apply the parking brake so that it is out of the way.
6. Once the two pieces are seperated, you should be able to pull the entire top piece out of the way. (I had visions of covering the top piece in leather but, can't visualize the cup holder thing).
7. Pull the two trim pieces on either side of the radio console straight out. Not much effort is needed here.
8. Now you should be looking at the radio and climate controls. You should be able to see scres holding the panel.
9. Before removing the panel, reach behind on the driver's side and disconnect the blower switch. Place a large screwdriver into the retaining clip an pull off the connector.
10. Reach behind the panel on the passenger side and disconnect the air flow connector. This one is easy. Just puch the gray lever upwards and the connector will come right off. It works off of a cam. I am unfamiliar with this type of switch and it took much deliberation and a trip to the beer frig. to figure it out.
11.Disconnect the screws on the panel and pull out.
12. If you have the interior upgrade, you will disconnect at this time. Pretty straight forward and the panel comes far enough out to do it while sitting in the seat.
13.Now you should be able to see the screws holding the head unit in place. Simply un-screw and remove
14. I found it easier to pull out slightly and turn clockwise. This gave me enough room to reach around and disconnect the connectors.
15. Your done.

I believe the sub amps are in the door. Not one anywhere near the head unit. The silver box under the head unit is the restraint controller. DON'T TOUCH IT. You can purchase a generic adapter that plugs into the harness that has pigtails ( I think ). Looks like standard plugs. I don't know what the schematic says so, I don't know what's what. I haven't metered it yet.

As far as the rear speakers, they look pretty straight forward. They have a clip in each corner but, it apears to be mounted from the top of the rear deck. I am going to meter them to find out what type of adapter is needed to add an aftermarket sub. I don't think the factory sub is worth it. For $1295, I can install a sub that will explode the trunk.

Hope this helps. Please pass on any info you find in regards to the wiring diagram. I hoping someone will do the work before I do.

Note -- It will probably take about half an hour to remove the radio. It took me about three hours to figure it out. I should be rich after everyone pays me for the time I saved them.

I got it apart in about 20 minutes without your help. but it would have been nice to find this thread before I started! I am amazed at the mess of wires behind the stereo and the 3 different harnests they use. Do you know what everything is yet? I need to hook up a stereo but I don't have the know how to figure out what every wire goes to! HELP!

[bashed1]

Here you go!