like this! Line locks are electric solenoids that are installed in-line of the brake lines. Once you press on the brake pedal and charge the brake lines with fluid, you press the button which closes the solenoids. The brake fluid is retained in the brake line to the front calipers. It will save your brakes and clutch as well. It is also lots of fun!
__________________
05 Turbo GT
Lethal Performance
BMR Fabrication
Boss 330 Racing
Speedzone Performance
DiabloSport
Hey 169, May I ask what you paid for the line locks? And did you install them yourself or have someone else do it. If you had them installed, how much?Thanks
I paid $300 for the line locks from here: http://www.paulshp.com/
I was reluctant to install them myself due to the ABS. Besides, I was having a new clutch installed, so I had them install the locks at the same time. I really don't know the exact cost to install just the line locks. At Paul's HP they charge $400 or so to install them. I think you might be able to get them installed for less. It looks to be pretty simple though. I hate dealing with brake fluid though. The biggest PITA would be just running the electrical wire to the shifter area or where ever desired. There is no cutting of brake lines. Looking at the pics, you can see they took the original brake line off the caliper line (black), and there is a silver fitting, a reverse threaded blue fitting, and the solenoid, then the same on the other side connecting to the other original brake line. The reverse threaded blue fitting allows you to tighten the fitting on both ends, as opposed to tightening one side and the other side loosening.
The line locks really save the clutch and the brakes. I went to a better performance clutch. The original had about 1/16 left before it was on the rivets. I have about 12,000 miles on the car. This was due to heel-toe burnouts and launching at 5000 rpm on M/T ET Street slicks.
__________________
05 Turbo GT
Lethal Performance
BMR Fabrication
Boss 330 Racing
Speedzone Performance
DiabloSport
Actually, I installed the Steeda Billet lower control arms which totally removed my wheel hop. When I ordered the line locks and such from Paul's HP, they had a upper 3rd link available. Steeda's was available a week later. If you're looking to remove wheel hop, you'll want to replace the lower's. The stock one's are weak and the bushings are horrible. The upper third is to adjust the pinion angle for a little better launch.
It took me about 30 minutes to replace the lower's. It is very easy to do. Instructions come with most manufacturer's product.
__________________
05 Turbo GT
Lethal Performance
BMR Fabrication
Boss 330 Racing
Speedzone Performance
DiabloSport
That seems like a great idea, but to be honest, I would never install something like that on my car. Yeah, I'm sure they work great, but what about when they malfunction? What if you accidentally hit the switch before you have to stop quickley? This could potentially cause a very bad accident.
wow, line locks are way cool but I think that placement out by the wheels looks poor...
wires way too exposed to the elemente for my taste...
why did they not mount under the hood as is the case with most linelocks??
also the array of adapters looks like "booty fab"
Not trying to be a dick just, looks hacked to me....
I know the tire covers this but just knowing it looks like this would drive me nuts..
Have others done this as well in this location??
Thanks for sharing your install.....
FYI: I usually drop mine around 5500 to 6000 when not using the heel-toe manuver, be sure to turn the TCS off, its a huge difference and pretty much stops the rear wheel hop, if you get good at the heel-toe manuver, you don't have to rev so high because you can brake enough to allow the rpms to build up slowly, be careful of hitting the rev limiter by just holding the gas pedal to the floor (its rather embarassing ), you will have to let off the gas pedal slightly as you see the revs getting towards the red line. Also, I wouldn't just slip your foot off the clutch to torque the wheels, that can possible do some serious damage (in the past, I have shattered a clutch and also have destroyed a rear end), I recommend you lift your foot as fast as you can, this will allow the clutch to engage without too much extreme initial force.
Also, if anyone is just starting to play with burnouts, please do them in an empty parking lot
Just my two cents.
Disclamier: In no way am I responsible for what you do to your car from what I say
__________________
2005 Mustang GT 281 (Sweeeeeeeeettttttt!!!!!)
1989 Mustang GT 302HO (Alive and Kickin)
1982 Mustang GT 302HO (Kaboom, Rebuilding)
1969 Mustang Mach1 351C (Alive and Kickin)
1964 Mustang Coupe 280 (Alive and Kickin)
Heel-toe, I would drop it around 5500. It'll rev up a little and then you'll get comfy with controlling the gas pedal and keeping the rev's around 5500-6000. Side stepping the clutch is NOT good. Just keep you foot on the clutch pedal and letting it out rapidly. Kinda popping it out. I promise you though, you will wear out the clutch doing this. If you let this clutch out too slow, you'll have more wear on it then popping it out. Just don't totally remove you foot from the pedal though, as in side stepping it. I've been there. I do go to the track almost twice a week too. Your time's or burnouts will definately be affected if you have the TCS on. Well, you won't be able to do a burnout with the TCS on and it will affect your 1/4 mile time being on too. On stock tires, with practice, you will be able to get down to 1.89 60' times at best.
__________________
05 Turbo GT
Lethal Performance
BMR Fabrication
Boss 330 Racing
Speedzone Performance
DiabloSport