I jumped on it in a 90 degree turn shifting from 1st to 2nd when I got the message beep. 'FAILSAFE ENGINE MODE' was the message. Noticed pretty soon after that the rev limitor kicked in at 4000 RPM. No SC nor AC available...
Called Ford Roadside Assistance and they were clueless... When I got off the highway I shut the car off and restarted it, all back to normal! YES!
Looked in the manual and it talks about cooling probs and overheating regarding a failsafe coolant mode, can only guess it's the same one? Temp was normal, maybe the G's from the turn and acceleration moved the coolant fluid off some sensor and it tought it was low?
Anybody else seen this? Any thoughts / knowledge out there...??
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KJ, poorer but happier
Thanks to: Modular Depot Fox Lake Racing Tunable Induction Power House 411 Sun Coast Creations
Well, I have an Automatic but have not seen that. I have done some pretty insane smoking the tires U-turns at 20 plus MPH. Also some wicked donunts. I would think one of them may have jossled some coolant. (Is jossled a word?)
Anyway......
May have been a fluke but I would try and reproduce it.......Sounds like you were having fun and it is under warranty................
Not to say anything about your tuning work, because i have actually done this. If your tune is off and you are running to lean or high then under hard use it will turn the cars "limp home mode" on. Which is a safety feature to make sure you dont hurt it but can still get home or to the shop. The "limp home mode" is what your car went into, thinking that running at normal levels would hurt the car. It could of been caused by anything in the motor or drivetrain working out of wack. Just to be on the safe side i would check your tune again. If you know your tune was right then just reload your tune for safe measure. The first time i re-tuned my stang, the computer didnt take the full tune so i test drove it (not knowing) and got thrown into that mode. Went home and reloaded the tune and 1000 miles later... i am still sitting and running great. Just my thoughts.
Oh by the way... i got the SLP's, got a good price and couldn't turn them down. Good luck witht he MAC'S.
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ELINOAR
05' GT black on black 5-speed -- Tint all around
Dyno RWHP=290.3 RWTQ=300.9
Eibach Sportline
SCT-Xcalibrator (91 oct)
C&L Complete Throttle body forward intake, SLP Loudmouth Axle-Back Exhaust
Painted (red) calipers, Redline Quicklift Hood Lifts
Original 64' GT Emblems
It ran without probs for some 3-400 miles. If it happens again I'll bring it back to the shop to check on the tune. It would be oh so much easier with a data logger. As it is now we just set it rich and leaned and leaned... It was still showing on the richer side though but this is were we ended up with optimal power...
Do you know if you changed your timing to two clicks later?
No probs with the MACs there are quite a few interested. I don't blame them! I wish they fitted my driving!
Thanks again, at leats I have a clue and know I'm not the only one that has seen this message...
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KJ, poorer but happier
Thanks to: Modular Depot Fox Lake Racing Tunable Induction Power House 411 Sun Coast Creations
Mine went into Failsafe mode one time - when the air filter on my CAI came off when driving. The JLT CAI tube was a little slippery, as was the inside of the filter, and after a few hundred miles of driving it slipped off when I jumped on the gas.
Fortunately, all I had to do was give them a good cleaning with rubbing alcohol...took the residual oil off and now it stays on tight.
And, same with me, the Failsafe mode went away on restart and hasn't returned in over 1,000 miles with the JLT CAI.
You might want to check yours...just a thought!
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Loudog
If you don't stand for something, you'll fall for anything.
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'05 GT Black w/ Drk. Charcoal, 5-speed Manual, IUP, Side Air Bags, Shaker 500, Bassani Xhaust (SS Cat-Backs w/ X-pipe), SCT XCalibrator, JLT Cold Air Intake w/DTP tune
As I had posted before, my first C&L CAI/ MAF with my Predator tune was the 93 octane default tune, only after my "check engine" light came on and I also was demoted to the "fail safe mode" did I research that I needed a special C&L/ MAF download upgrade for my specific CAI. Only after that, did I resolve this issue.
That said, you can still investigate yourself what failure occured by connecting your tuner up to the computer i/f and reading off the diagnostic error codes. Mine were "lean bank 1 and bank 2" obviously.
Hope this helps. Since then, I have been dyno-ed at 300 RWHP and having fun.
Funny thing, just this morning I showed my mods to my freind who has done same mods to his 2001 Corvette, who thought it looked great. However, I did notice for the first time how "hot" (to the touch) the cast aluminum CAI felt. Hmmm, I'm not looking forward to a hot summer in this case. I am seriously thinking of wrapping it in a heat insulation barrier of sorts. Anybody else getting the same feeling? I will check with C&L for their thoughts on impact if any.
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C&L CAI with MAF, Steeda UP's, FR 4.10's, Predator "C&L-MAF" Tune, Borla 3" tip catbacks, Kooks LT/ Catted X-pipe, Nitto 255/45/18(F) 285/40/18(R), Steeda Springs, Tri-Ax, Adj Pan Hard, Camber plates, Cowel Hood, Tokico Adj Dampers.
dyno; 315 RWHP/ 320 RWTQ
One thing you should consider is to wrap the radiator hose which is directly underneath the intake with insulation like for water pipes. I did this on mine and it will help keep the heat down. I was also reading that at speeds over about 25mph that the airflow thru the engine compartment brings the interior temperature down to that of the ambient air coming in from outside so at least it will not build up. Have not had any problems with my C&L/Predator to date.
2005 Windveil Blue GT Premium, Shaker 500, Wheel Locks, Active Alarm, Tinted, Eibach Pro Springs, Steeda Billet Strut Tower Brace, Steeda Pedal Covers and Dead Pedal, Steeda Billet A/C Knobs, C&L Intake w/Predator tune.
1967 MGB Roadster, Swift Red, 1.8L Street Comp Engine, Competition Intake Manifold, Headers and free flow exhaust, Dual SU's w/K&N, Wires w/ Yoko's, Electric Overdrive Trans, more, Miata Killer
Am going in for a retune later this week, will have to drive nice till then...
So you with mods and/or tunes (or stock?) When you cold start and the choke is engaged does your engine seem VERY responsive and 'willing', almost MC responsive on the throttle and in the sound? I'm not talking about the base 1500-2000 RPM idle the computer holds but when you put it in gear, eg. to reverse out of your drive way etc.
Now if it really runs better that way (with less air, I guess they still work on that principle?) maybe a change in the mixture that way would do the trick? I would LOVE for my car to always be like just after a cold start (50 degrees here), less the high idle of course. Dunno if it can keep that up through the register though... It is really mean and responsive!
What'cha say??
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KJ, poorer but happier
Thanks to: Modular Depot Fox Lake Racing Tunable Induction Power House 411 Sun Coast Creations
It was the TQ-limitor that put my car in Failsafe Mode. Too much TQ...?? Now that only a computer can come up with!?! I guess a better explanation is 'too quickly increasing TQ', and we all know that's an oxymoron!
Part of the standard tune is to get rid of this 'errant' message but they are working on making the computer even more tolerant. I got the newest add on e-mailed to me today and had it instaled and no prob since...
(The 1/4 mile guys in the shop had another solution, never let the gas up and use only about 2/3 of the clutch and very quickly when shifting... )
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KJ, poorer but happier
Thanks to: Modular Depot Fox Lake Racing Tunable Induction Power House 411 Sun Coast Creations
have you tried your computer. Find another S197 that has the same computer and just put his computer in yours. If it is tuned then just convert the computer back to stock and then put it in your car and then put what ever tune you have back in if you have a tune.
2005+ Mustang GT Failsafe Engine Mode 
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Finding this forum made me very happy, thanks for the info!!
