I know a couple weeks ago there was a long debate on how to break in the new engine. If you read the owners manual, I just found that there is a small paragraph that says..
"Your vehicle does not need an extensive break-in period....Try not to drive it continuosly at the same speed for the first 1000 miles. Vary your speed frequently to give the moving parts a chance to break in...."
Next it says not to add any friction modifier compounds or special break-in oils, since these additives may prevent piston ring seating.
I underlined this part because some people believe you should run the engine hard when you first get it. Obviously the seals have not been fully seated, so running the engine hard with high rpms and speed could destabilize the seals. If you don't believe me, read your owners manual yourself.
Also, for those who believe you lose power overtime and feel you have to re-set the computer...there is a section in the maintenance that talks a little bit about how the computer operates. You can unplug the battery like we said, and it will "re-learn". During this period, it might feel like your car launches off the line faster, but overtime it will reset back to your normal driving conditions, unless you race your mustang ALL the time, it will optimize for efficiency(the way you normally drive). But don't worry, cuz the computer is "adaptive" so it will never stop adjusting itself to the way you drive. Hope all this helps.
Happy motoring!
__________________
2005 Black GT Whipple HO | Oil Seperator | Steeda Tensioner | 93 dyno tune | Autometer Cobalt | GTAs
I know a couple weeks ago there was a long debate on how to break in the new engine. If you read the owners manual, I just found that there is a small paragraph that says..
"Your vehicle does not need an extensive break-in period....Try not to drive it continuosly at the same speed for the first 1000 miles. Vary your speed frequently to give the moving parts a chance to break in...."
Next it says not to add any friction modifier compounds or special break-in oils, since these additives may prevent piston ring seating.
I underlined this part because some people believe you should run the engine hard when you first get it. Obviously the seals have not been fully seated, so running the engine hard with high rpms and speed could destabilize the seals. If you don't believe me, read your owners manual yourself.
Also, for those who believe you lose power overtime and feel you have to re-set the computer...there is a section in the maintenance that talks a little bit about how the computer operates. You can unplug the battery like we said, and it will "re-learn". During this period, it might feel like your car launches off the line faster, but overtime it will reset back to your normal driving conditions, unless you race your mustang ALL the time, it will optimize for efficiency(the way you normally drive). But don't worry, cuz the computer is "adaptive" so it will never stop adjusting itself to the way you drive. Hope all this helps.
Happy motoring!
This was very helpful. When it says that it does not need an extensive break-in period, exactly how many miles do they mean? My salesman suggested 1000 miles. So far I've got 275.
I know a couple weeks ago there was a long debate on how to break in the new engine. If you read the owners manual, I just found that there is a small paragraph that says..
"Your vehicle does not need an extensive break-in period....Try not to drive it continuosly at the same speed for the first 1000 miles. Vary your speed frequently to give the moving parts a chance to break in...."
Next it says not to add any friction modifier compounds or special break-in oils, since these additives may prevent piston ring seating.
I underlined this part because some people believe you should run the engine hard when you first get it. Obviously the seals have not been fully seated, so running the engine hard with high rpms and speed could destabilize the seals. If you don't believe me, read your owners manual yourself.
I don't understand the link between high RPM/hard driving and destablizing the seals. I do understand why additives may prevent piston ring seating.
jq
I have 2050 miles on her now. She is becomming so sweet to drive. On level ground at stoplights, I don't even need to use gas to take off if I slide clutch softly. The shifting is like butter up and down any time I want.
Here is my formula; 0-500 miles, no burnouts, not constant speed for long, no rpm over 5000 max but, mostly under 4000. 500-1000 miles, no constant speed on freeway, only 2 burnouts for wheel spin thrill then immediate back off, never hit the redline (6000 rpm), pushed it alot in the 3-5000 band. 1000-2000 miles, drove it like I stole it. Almost race type starts, a few good burnouts (never ever have I let them burn more than a 2 seconds), shifting in the 3-5000 band alot, 2nd and 3rd gear chirps, only redline a few times under load. One dyno redline to full cutoff governer for test data. 2000-now (2050) miles; driving it now like I intend to normally, baby starts, low rpm shifts, very little redlining, 3000-5000 shifts at times, no burnouts, nobody to race usually. I will just chill now and get max miles outta her but, don't kid yerself, if one gets a 'tude with me I will lay into her.
I don't see the value of beating your car for no reason. I know full well what my car can do and what it can not. If I need to step to race I will consider it if I know the roads and can see my potential cop spots. The few races I have jumped on it, I never saw the guy in my side mirrors for long so I just back off then. The car looks sweet and the shaker 1000 is getting lots of play time. Just chillin'...
BTW; Audioslave's "Shadow of the Sun" cranked out to V-10 and max bass on a hot day with windows down is a soul shaker...
__________________
C&L CAI with MAF, Steeda UP's, FR 4.10's, Predator "C&L-MAF" Tune, Borla 3" tip catbacks, Kooks LT/ Catted X-pipe, Nitto 255/45/18(F) 285/40/18(R), Steeda Springs, Tri-Ax, Adj Pan Hard, Camber plates, Cowel Hood, Tokico Adj Dampers.
dyno; 315 RWHP/ 320 RWTQ
0-69.....1 burn out (but I didn't take it past 5K, 1 run to 100+ mph
100-500..... 2 burn outs and I found the traction control light on the dash, 2 drag races
500-1000....... why won't this thing get some power!! Why do I keep hitting the rev limiter.....Ah what the hell I will race anything, broke in now right?
1000-1200........2 powershifts, hey works on the 05 also, who needs a clutch! First oil change, with no metal shavings in the oil, must be doing something right.
OK....you guys can yell at me now. I just have no regard for beauty right. These engines are pretty much broke in right from Ford, BTW. I drive my cars. And once the Supercharger goes on, engine life will be significantly reduced anyways.
No offense, but I haven't even cracked the binder on my owners manual.
__________________
-1998 Black Cobra, Kenne Bell 2.1L Supercharged
-2005 Mustang GT, Premium, 5spd, Redfire, Mac Catback
-2007 Roush Nitemare Stage 3 Supercharged #48 of 100
I have 2050 miles on her now. She is becomming so sweet to drive. On level ground at stoplights, I don't even need to use gas to take off if I slide clutch softly. The shifting is like butter up and down any time I want.
Here is my formula; 0-500 miles, no burnouts, not constant speed for long, no rpm over 5000 max but, mostly under 4000. 500-1000 miles, no constant speed on freeway, only 2 burnouts for wheel spin thrill then immediate back off, never hit the redline (6000 rpm), pushed it alot in the 3-5000 band. 1000-2000 miles, drove it like I stole it. Almost race type starts, a few good burnouts (never ever have I let them burn more than a 2 seconds), shifting in the 3-5000 band alot, 2nd and 3rd gear chirps, only redline a few times under load. One dyno redline to full cutoff governer for test data. 2000-now (2050) miles; driving it now like I intend to normally, baby starts, low rpm shifts, very little redlining, 3000-5000 shifts at times, no burnouts, nobody to race usually. I will just chill now and get max miles outta her but, don't kid yerself, if one gets a 'tude with me I will lay into her.
I don't see the value of beating your car for no reason. I know full well what my car can do and what it can not. If I need to step to race I will consider it if I know the roads and can see my potential cop spots. The few races I have jumped on it, I never saw the guy in my side mirrors for long so I just back off then. The car looks sweet and the shaker 1000 is getting lots of play time. Just chillin'...
BTW; Audioslave's "Shadow of the Sun" cranked out to V-10 and max bass on a hot day with windows down is a soul shaker...
I agree with ur formula doing the same at 1124 miles at the moment...god bless this car!
I have 2050 miles on her now. She is becomming so sweet to drive. On level ground at stoplights, I don't even need to use gas to take off if I slide clutch softly. The shifting is like butter up and down any time I want.
Here is my formula; 0-500 miles, no burnouts, not constant speed for long, no rpm over 5000 max but, mostly under 4000. 500-1000 miles, no constant speed on freeway, only 2 burnouts for wheel spin thrill then immediate back off, never hit the redline (6000 rpm), pushed it alot in the 3-5000 band. 1000-2000 miles, drove it like I stole it. Almost race type starts, a few good burnouts (never ever have I let them burn more than a 2 seconds), shifting in the 3-5000 band alot, 2nd and 3rd gear chirps, only redline a few times under load. One dyno redline to full cutoff governer for test data. 2000-now (2050) miles; driving it now like I intend to normally, baby starts, low rpm shifts, very little redlining, 3000-5000 shifts at times, no burnouts, nobody to race usually. I will just chill now and get max miles outta her but, don't kid yerself, if one gets a 'tude with me I will lay into her.
I don't see the value of beating your car for no reason. I know full well what my car can do and what it can not. If I need to step to race I will consider it if I know the roads and can see my potential cop spots. The few races I have jumped on it, I never saw the guy in my side mirrors for long so I just back off then. The car looks sweet and the shaker 1000 is getting lots of play time. Just chillin'...
BTW; Audioslave's "Shadow of the Sun" cranked out to V-10 and max bass on a hot day with windows down is a soul shaker...
Some greAt advice here! Except I wouldn't do burnouts period. It puts serious stress on the car. I'd rather watch clips of other people doing it. . I will also check out that song. I don't think I ever heard that one from AudioSlave or maybe I did just didn't know the name.
__________________
2005 Black GT Whipple HO | Oil Seperator | Steeda Tensioner | 93 dyno tune | Autometer Cobalt | GTAs
It seems like you're saying that the owners manual includes a statement supporting your gentle break-in recipe. I don't see it - you're just making a complicated deal out of a simple deal. But if it's fun, the do the special gentle recipe. Have fun.
My break in formula: vary the RPM and easy on the brakes for 1000. That's it.
I haven't even read the owners manual other than to refer to a few milestones like gas type (thats all changed now) and expected service schedule. I wrote how I break in almost all my new cars (roughly 9 or 10 since I been out of college) and thought I'd share. If guys want to race the hell out of their 4.6's right off the rail car, have fun, it's your wallet. I don't want to be that guy in traffic belching out black smoke from the tailpipes because he couldn't keep his spurs out of the horses underbelly. These engines are NOT broken in from Ford, they get dyno-ed I hear after modular assembly and then installed and shipped, hardly broken in.
If you re-read my post, I have more than kicked this pony in the a$$ and it is programmed to get stomped on at any time I want, I just plan to get more than the beaten down half life of high engine abuse. If the situation calls for it, I have 300 RWHP ready to go and have zero reservations about using them.
__________________
C&L CAI with MAF, Steeda UP's, FR 4.10's, Predator "C&L-MAF" Tune, Borla 3" tip catbacks, Kooks LT/ Catted X-pipe, Nitto 255/45/18(F) 285/40/18(R), Steeda Springs, Tri-Ax, Adj Pan Hard, Camber plates, Cowel Hood, Tokico Adj Dampers.
dyno; 315 RWHP/ 320 RWTQ
Where in this quote does it say not to exceed 5000RPM?
"Your vehicle does not need an extensive break-in period....Try not to drive it continuosly at the same speed for the first 1000 miles. Vary your speed frequently to give the moving parts a chance to break in...."
Next it says not to add any friction modifier compounds or special break-in oils, since these additives may prevent piston ring seating.
Nowhere in these instructions does it say to limit the RPM to 5000 or any other number.
It says to "vary the speed frequently" which is exactly what I do. It varies between 750 to 6000 every 4 seconds or so. I have also followed the second statement precisely by not adding anything to the oil.
Logically speaking if a piston can safely move at 1000 RPM it can safely move at 5000 - 6000 RPM.
The engine is balanced for the rev range it will be operating in. You won't float a valve at those revs and it doesn't make any more power above 6000 RPM anyway.
Everyting else you have wrote is your interpretation of a very simple statement. My interpretation is don't get on the highway and stick it in fifth gear and drive 500 miles at any one RPM.
At about 30 miles I got it up to 130mph for a little accelleration checkout.
At around 300 miles I ran:
2.097 60Ft.
8.857 1/8th Mile
13.638 1/4 Mile @104.473
I now have about 600 miles on it but it hasn't been out in 5 days due to constant rain.
__________________
05 White GT Premium 5 Sp. IUP, Active Alarm
BMR, C&L, Centerforce, Fidanza, FRPP, GI Joe, JBA, JDM Engineering, LPW, Saleen, SCT, Steeda, SOS
"Logically speaking if a piston can safely move at 1000 RPM it can safely move at 5000 - 6000 RPM.
The engine is balanced for the rev range it will be operating in. You won't float a valve at those revs and it doesn't make any more power above 6000 RPM anyway.
Not trying to argue with you or anything, just trying to understand. If you say the pistons can move safely at 1k RPM, then it can move safely at 5k-6k RPM(cuz it's not in the redline im guessing).
Are you saying that the stress on the engine is no different from 1k RPM all the way up to 6k RPM? I know it redlines at like 6250 or something like that, which means it's not good for the engine to run at RPMS that high, correct?
So my thinking is that the stress on an engine goes up as the RPMs increase. By your logic the engine has the same stress(if I was correct in reading what you said on your last post) from 1-6k RPMs then if you go past redline it becomes damaging to your engine like a drop-off point. That doesn't make sense to me. Then again I'm not a mechanic or an engineer, just a mustang lover. Let me know what you think.
__________________
2005 Black GT Whipple HO | Oil Seperator | Steeda Tensioner | 93 dyno tune | Autometer Cobalt | GTAs
One of the factors dictating the "REDLINE" is the tolerances of the built engine especially in the bearings and rotating/ moving parts. In a hi end racing engine, the tolerances are very close, requireing more cost in the machining and no "mass production" line assemblies. More of a built by hand kind of thing. Also considered are the strength of the main crank bearings, piston rod compression rating,etc. The stroke and size of bore also has points of diminishing returns, a 4 banger can redline over 7000 whereas a 454 may redline at 4500 rpm. All these cost factors establish "safe" operating redline.
Regarding break in, the main part of the break in period are the seating of the rings and then of coarse the moving parts "shaving metal" on a micro scale at wear in. If the manual says;
"Your vehicle does not need an extensive break-in period....Try not to drive it continuosly at the same speed for the first 1000 miles. Vary your speed frequently to give the moving parts a chance to break in...." You can interpret this as either "vary your normal driving speeds to allow your moving parts to break in" or " vary your rpm's from 5000 to 6000 to allow your parts to break in".
I chose the former.
After 1000 miles I gave it a work out. That said, any given engine is a crap-shoot as to how long it will last before it blows a moving part. In general, super hi-end tight tolerance racing engines that are machined way tighter than these stock 4.6's get beat on in races and have short life spans, so, pay as you go, everything is a trade off.
__________________
C&L CAI with MAF, Steeda UP's, FR 4.10's, Predator "C&L-MAF" Tune, Borla 3" tip catbacks, Kooks LT/ Catted X-pipe, Nitto 255/45/18(F) 285/40/18(R), Steeda Springs, Tri-Ax, Adj Pan Hard, Camber plates, Cowel Hood, Tokico Adj Dampers.
dyno; 315 RWHP/ 320 RWTQ
Who am I kidding though, I'll probably baby it to be safe, but I won't be able to resist the urge to "gun it" once in a while. But, they'll be some definate babying the first 1k miles.
__________________
2005 Black GT Whipple HO | Oil Seperator | Steeda Tensioner | 93 dyno tune | Autometer Cobalt | GTAs
I figure Esmaralda knows what is good for her and what ain't. I've only got 220 miles on her and am mostly happy just to be taking her down the street crusing but every time I take her out, right about the time the engine is fully warmed up, I can hear her ghostly moanings "baby, baby this is boring, spank me, heat me up, make me growl" and we all know she don't start to growl until you cross that 3-4,000 rpm range. And since I do love her, I do what she tells me.